Min Charging Voltage This Winter?

[yamaha1300rider]

With the onslaught of winter not far away and the drain on the battery from lights, heated gear etc, can someone please remind me of the minimum voltage required to ensure the battery does not get too run down when engine running?

TIA

Paul

01 fjr

uk

 

[radman]

12.5-12.8

 

[Warchild]

12.5-12.8

I would try to at least keep it no lower than the upper part of this range, if possible...

If you see your Datel drop below ~ 12.7-ish volts, it's time to consider turn something off for a while (or, if controlled by an electronic controller, consider turning that component "down" for a while)

 

[Geezer]

Datel? What's that?

 

[Warchild]

Datel? What's that?

Datel LED voltmeter, considered essential equipment if you run any high-draw gear (aux lights, heated grip/clothing, etc.)

See: https://www.digitalmeter.com/images/pc1-dcms-MC.pdf

 

[yamaha1300rider]

Thanks guys!

Paul

01 fjr

uk

 

[Geezer]

Datel LED voltmeter, considered essential equipment if you run any high-draw gear (aux lights, heated grip/clothing, etc.)

Doh! I have been thinking about a battery charger lately and missed the point of the thread. Thanks for the information.

 

[3dogs]

Min charging voltage for a AGM (absorbed glass matt) battery (used in the FJR) should be from 13.0v to 13.2v. If you leave one on a charger that only produces 12.8 or so, the batt will go dead after several months, especially if it's in cold storage. Most "smart" chargers will reach this charging voltage (Yuasa, Deltran, Optimate).

 

[jestal]

del

 

[JimLor]

I've got a practical question - I want to buy the Datel and put it on the bike. Where do you tie it into the system? I work at the Office of Naval Research and asked this question of various scientists, electrical engineers, etc and have had a great time talking about volts, amps, watts, potential, resistnace, definitions, etc; but, none can give the practical answer of where to attach the voltmeter wires! Appreciate the help.

 

[yamaha1300rider]

JimLor

I added one terminal of the voltmeter to the relay for the Magnum Blaster horns and the other to the negative terminal of battery

My Datel tells me the voltage when engine running is:

a) no load - 14.0

B) lights on full beam - 12.8

No engine running the voltage was 11.9 before a run and 12.5 afterwards

So it seems I don't have much scope for heated gear and grips! Is that right?

Paul

01 fjr

uk

 

[smthng]

I agree, not much room for you at all. I'd be real worried if you're running 12.8 on a regular basis. I run 13.8 most of the time (auxillary lights are what pulls me out of the 14s) and don't mind an occaisional drop to 12.5, but I don't let it sit there for very long.

 

[SkooterG]

Something sounds wrong there Paul.

My Passport 8500 has a voltmeter, and I run 14.1-14.2 with low beams, and 14.1 on high beams. Heck you are only going up 10 watts (5 each light) from low to high beams. So something with your set-up is wrong.

When I turn on my PHIDs, voltage drops to around 13.2 as they spool up, and once warmed up, in about 5-7 seconds, I read 13.9 volts. IIRC correctly, PHIDs are 38 watts each.

Jestal, you know I always welcome and respect your opinion on all things technical, but if you are correct, we are screwed as we couldn't run anything extra besides low wattage stuff like radar detectors and gps and such. We better be able to go into the low 13 volt range safely or I am coming over to your house to kick some butt!

 

[jestal]

del.

 

[jestal]

del

 

[yamaha1300rider]

I have reviewed my voltmeter readings at 4k rpm and they are as follows:

No load - 13.8v

Lights on - 13.1

Lights and heated grips - 12.7-12.8v

So my conclusion from what you guys are telling me is that either I need to:

a) have heated grips or heated clothing on but not both, or

B) have grips and clothing on and keep fingers crossed that weather gets warmer become getting home so they can be turned off in time so battery stays fully charged

I just wonder how others manage with heated clothing? :huh:

Paul

01 fjr

uk

 

[05fjrBluedevil]

Hello to all,

I saw Sum things blue volt meter at eom and had been wanting to put one on my bike since I have managed to drain the battery on two different occasions.

Sum thing was kind enough to provide me the link as promised at eom and I ordered and have installed this, directly to the battery for the most accurate reading. I mounted it just to the right of the clock display on the hump of the black plastic panel, wow does this thing stand out and is clearly visible while riding.

With radar detector and 5 watt blue accent ring on my auxiliary lights on I stay at 14.4, once I turn on my other auxiliary light 55 watts * 2 I drop into the 13.7, if I decide to power both auxiliary lights I run down to 12.65 area. When I get in traffic I just switch off the extra lights and the system quickly goes back in the high 13.'s

I really like knowing I can walk up to my bike and see that voltage sitting above the mid 12s into 13's. knowing it will have the juice necessary to start or as Jest pointed out to me park it on top the mountain to bump start it cause I could not push start this, it was kind of funny watching the people at work watching me try to start my new Bike back in spring!

 

[Warchild]

I have reviewed my voltmeter readings at 4k rpm and they are as follows:
No load  - 13.8v

Say what? 13.8v at 4000 RPM with no real load?

Paul, this reading is kinda low.

You should be pushing 14.1-14.3v at 4000 RPM with no accessories running.

I suspect the issue it that you are not getting a very good Datel reading. Ideally, you should be connecting your Datel *directly* to the battery terminals (obviously, using a switch or having a relay on the circuit so that the Datel is "on" all the time).

If you are connecting the negative (-) terminal of the Datel to the engine block, frame, etc, this would account for what you are seeing. If your FJR's charging system is truly performing as advertised and is in good shape component-wise, you are (probably) actually pushing around 13.1v when you have all your electrical goodies lit off. The battery will stay charge fine running at 13.1v, but you're making the charging system work hard for it. Running this way constantly over a long time can make for an abbreviated stator lifespan. The stator will eventually burn crispy and will require replacement. BTDT on both watt-challenged bike I use for Endurance rallying.

Here's what my Blackbird's stator looked like at 60,000 miles... just a little crispy, don't 'cha think? :lol:

Arrow points to windings burnt completely free of their insulation:

More bare wires from burned-off insulation:

 

[yamaha1300rider]

Thanks for your thoughts Warchild (and for worrying me )

I suspect the issue it that you are not getting a very good Datel reading. Ideally, you should be connecting your Datel *directly* to the battery terminals (obviously, using a switch or having a relay on the circuit so that the Datel is "on" all the time).

As I said on October 5:

I added one terminal of the voltmeter to the relay for the Magnum Blaster horns and the other to the negative terminal of battery

Perhaps my wire from the Datel to the relay is too long? :huh:

Paul

01 fjr

uk