MCRIDER007
Well-known member
I would go with MCN on this one, Yamaha has a history of publishing wet weights that do not include the saddlebags.
Motorcycle Consumer News 2013 FJR Review
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bikemiser
Well-known member
Rider shows 663 wet
BigOgre
Well-known member
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Interesting that my 2008 Connie riding friend and professional motorcycle mechanic made the same performance observations between the two bikes last year. His comparison of the 2 bikes was spot on to MCN's observations. That was based on a Gen 2 FJR so I think the FJR this year is the clear winner. For me that adds credibility to the report. Also he said the the Connie is one difficult beast to work on/service compared to the FJR. The valve check/adjustment on the Connie evidently is a huge pain in the ass.
Bill
Bill
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AKjitsu
Well-known member
OK. Everybody stand back. This is going to be a big one. Doh!!!You're thinking of a different MCN. This one is NOT the same as the UK one.MCN is UK based. They get the real CC, not the sissy-ass, no-ball, chickenshit, limp-dick US version.rumor has it, Yamaha paid them to ignore POS Cruise
That was one of the big reasons I went for the FJR.. a valve adjustment job on the Connie - according to the dealer I talked to - is 8 hours in the shop, because most of the fairing has to be removed, as well as the radiator to get at the top of the engine, then the cams have to come out... Plus, I liked the FJR's cruise control, digital dash, ergos, personal fit, fuel capacity, much longer valve check interval, and aesthetics.
I caught another mistake in the MCN review: When talking about the FJR's traction control, they say it can be turned off "unlike that of the SuperTenere which surprisingly can't be turned off". Well, I own one and it can be turned off, there's a nearly hidden button on the left side of the speedometer, which you press to switch from Traction control setting 1 to setting 2 (for dirt, let's the rear wheel break loose a bit) and press it again to OFF.
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MCRIDER007
Well-known member
What nonsense! The side fairings have to be removed but you do not have to touch the radiator or any of the cooling system (unlike the FJR), the cams do not have to come out unless you need to change a shim and that is an easier process than the FJR because of easy access to the CCT. There are a lot of things to remove to get access to the valve cover (which is very easy to remove and install) but everything that needs to be removed has easy access. The real pain in the ass is re-installing the plastic. There are so many interlocking tabs that it is almost a 2 person process to avoid scratching the fairings....and it sounds like that is also going to be a pain in ass on the 2013 FJR .
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hppants
Well-known member
As a long time subscriber to MCN, I was excited to read about the Gen III FJR. If I can believe what was written, I officially stand corrected on my previous comments about the Gen III. Previously, I was thinking "throttle by wire, cruise control, traction control, and a new front fairing - and you call this 'all new'"? But upon reading the article, I see that there has been much more done to the bike, including friction reducing plating on the cylinder walls, new pistons, lower tension piston rings, new tranny gears (less whine), fixed the "auto-retract" feature of the windscreen, better windscreen, better engine heat management, better stock seat, more "tool-free" rider adjustments. For a $300.00 increase, that seems like quite a value over the 2012.
BTW - MCN cited approximately 129 hp in the dyno test, about 7 hp more than their test of the gen II. So I would imagine that the 145hp spec. on the Gen II was crank hp? If that's true, then the Gen II loses approximately 16% through the 2 drive shaft turns? That's huge, IMO
In addition to the other "typos" mentioned, I found the $270ish estimate for a valve adjustment to be absolutely ridiculous. At least for my Gen I, $270.00 would not get you 1/2 of an adjustment at the dealer.
Otherwise, I thought it was an informed article. Dave and Scott are right, the FJR needs a 6th gear. Most of us mileage eaters live in the 75-85 mph range. At that speed, over time, the FJR is a little buzzy. Further, why not give us 5ish choices on the rear shock pre-load? And why can't Ohlins offer yami compression and rebound adjustment on the rear shock?
In the advertisement-driven world of periodicals, I think MCN is about as un-biased as we are gonna get. Still, when you look at the table of all bike reviews that MCN publishes regularly, it's hard to believe that out of 500 bikes, they only give a couple 2 or 3 stars.
BTW - MCN cited approximately 129 hp in the dyno test, about 7 hp more than their test of the gen II. So I would imagine that the 145hp spec. on the Gen II was crank hp? If that's true, then the Gen II loses approximately 16% through the 2 drive shaft turns? That's huge, IMO
In addition to the other "typos" mentioned, I found the $270ish estimate for a valve adjustment to be absolutely ridiculous. At least for my Gen I, $270.00 would not get you 1/2 of an adjustment at the dealer.
Otherwise, I thought it was an informed article. Dave and Scott are right, the FJR needs a 6th gear. Most of us mileage eaters live in the 75-85 mph range. At that speed, over time, the FJR is a little buzzy. Further, why not give us 5ish choices on the rear shock pre-load? And why can't Ohlins offer yami compression and rebound adjustment on the rear shock?
In the advertisement-driven world of periodicals, I think MCN is about as un-biased as we are gonna get. Still, when you look at the table of all bike reviews that MCN publishes regularly, it's hard to believe that out of 500 bikes, they only give a couple 2 or 3 stars.
wheatonFJR
...
One thing I would worry about on the 2013 is the fastenerless plastic connections...Before, you just lost a screw and picked up another one. Now...you break a tab and you are effed.
I bet it speeds up the assembly line process, but not great for typical maintenance guys digging in to the plastic.
Oh, and btw...occasionally after running through traffic, I find myself cruising on the interslab in 4th gear...then I shift it into 5th and it seems nice and relaxed.
I bet it speeds up the assembly line process, but not great for typical maintenance guys digging in to the plastic.
Oh, and btw...occasionally after running through traffic, I find myself cruising on the interslab in 4th gear...then I shift it into 5th and it seems nice and relaxed.
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You could always have the screen stay where it was by simply pulling a fuse. Heat management was already fixed on the Gen II and this bike seems the same to me. Fairing adjustment is cleaner without any visible screws though. Seat is identical to the Gen II bikes.
The FJR has always claimed 145 hp and it's always been understood to be a crankshaft figure. FJR's have made mid to high 120's rwhp since the beginning. 10%+/- power loss is what you'd expect, no worse than other shaft drive bikes.
6th gear argument is a never ending pointless recurring thread topic. The bike doesn't "need" it since they put taller gearing on it in 2006, imho. On my Gen II and now this one, the bike has never been "buzzy" whether hammering along at 90 or loafing at 70. ymmv
And Wheaton, the fairing panels work pretty well. I haven't had the whole thing off but the black fairing panels in the cockpit were easy to manage without breaking. I am not a serial farkler though, I was just getting to the battery to hook up my 12V pig tail.
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
So, can I add auto-retract to a 2013 as easily as I can remove it on my Gen II ?
I happen to like the feature
You, sir, are an army of 1. 
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Not quite, there are a few others who've given the same opinion, including some who have disconnected, then re-connected the auto-retract.You, sir, are an army of 1.
In any case, even if I am the only one, to me I'm the most important rider
Maybe you can buy the looped connector as an optional extra for a few 10's of dollars/pounds. Or is that too cynical
Right. It's why I bought the bike!So, can I add auto-retract to a 2013 as easily as I can remove it on my Gen II ?
I happen to like the feature.
hppants
Well-known member
20 Valves - I don't disagree with your comments. I've typically seen power losses of shaft driven bikes closer to 10% than 16%. For chain driven bikes, usually closer to 5%. Not to jack the thread, but this phenomenon has facinated me over the years. Physicist tell me that the "power-turn" in direction doesn't cause the loss of efficiency. It's the gear-to-gear friction (more metal touching than with a chain/sprocket), fighting the rear-end lube, added rotating mass, etc. Still, I'd rather have a shaftie. As for the buzziness on my bike, I find it to be most prevalent at 70 - 80 mph. At 90, it tends to quiet down. Regardless, compared to many other I-4 bikes I've ridden, the FJR is not very buzzy at all at any speeds.
I've pulled the w/s retract jumper on my Gen I - easy enough, but I always thought that feature was poor design. YMMV
I've pulled the w/s retract jumper on my Gen I - easy enough, but I always thought that feature was poor design. YMMV
ionbeam
2 FUN
...I've typically seen power losses of shaft driven bikes closer to 10% than 16%...
On average the FJR engine should make 145 hp. On average the FJR pulls 121 to 129 hp on the dyno. Doing the math -- grunt, puff,ouch, ouch -- yields losses of 16.5% to 11%. Engine to engine varies in gross hp and there is a lot of variation in dynos so let's call it 13.75% and listen here buddy, that .05% is important and not rounded off
On average the FJR engine should make 145 hp. On average the FJR pulls 121 to 129 hp on the dyno. Doing the math -- grunt, puff,ouch, ouch -- yields losses of 16.5% to 11%. Engine to engine varies in gross hp and there is a lot of variation in dynos so let's call it 13.75% and listen here buddy, that .05% is important and not rounded off
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odot
CC member # 17,----- DUP member # 7, mensa club m
That point zero five loss can be reclaimed if you use amsoil.
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