If the left side had no damping, why would you even put oil in it?
To keep the seal moist?If the left side had no damping, why would you even put oil in it?
Pffft!!!To keep the seal moist?If the left side had no damping, why would you even put oil in it?
Well, both fork legs would have springs, and work together to support the weight of the bike. However, technically if the fork legs are attached together securely enough at the triple clamps, you could have all of the work being done on one fork leg. In fact, if the axle was supported enough in that fork leg there would be no need for the second leg to even be there.I guess it's time I show my ignorance. I don't have a thorough understanding of how the shocks on my bike work beyond springs and oil, but I really don't understand how it's effective to have only one of the two shocks actually doing any work...which is what it seems I am reading. Again, I am probably waaaay off base, but how is it that this setup can actually work? Am I completely missing something (most likely)?
The service manual does show a "damper rod assembly" in the left fork but no adjustment bits.Much more likely that they have a damper in both sides and just one side is adjustable. Not that it is a dud.
In a previous post MCRIDER007 sez:The service manual does show a "damper rod assembly" in the left fork but no adjustment bits.Much more likely that they have a damper in both sides and just one side is adjustable. Not that it is a dud.
We have information, but I can't see any of it as facts yet. Words can be trickisy things to use well and what you think they mean may not be what I think they mean.I just read the article and was very surprised at Cook's claim that the OEM left fork has a dead cartridge (doesn't have any damping) and Traxxion's fix is a live left cartridge that only has rebound adjustment...
I think the fork springs and bushings would get pretty hot without oil.If the left side had no damping, why would you even put oil in it?
That is my world. I am a Technical Writer. I produce only two or three hundred words a day, but I have to make sure those words mean one thing, and one thing only.Words can be trickisy things to use well and what you think they mean may not be what I think they mean.
I totally agree re:the damping rod assembly, however until someone takes one apart there isn't any way to know of the parts diagram is correct. I would think that if the cartridge did not have any guts (damping pistons) the cost would be a lot less than the right fork cartridge.In a previous post MCRIDER007 sez:The service manual does show a "damper rod assembly" in the left fork but no adjustment bits.Much more likely that they have a damper in both sides and just one side is adjustable. Not that it is a dud.
We have information, but I can't see any of it as facts yet. Words can be trickisy things to use well and what you think they mean may not be what I think they mean.I just read the article and was very surprised at Cook's claim that the OEM left fork has a dead cartridge (doesn't have any damping) and Traxxion's fix is a live left cartridge that only has rebound adjustment...
I will observe that both sides have damping rods going into the cartridges, if one side was just a spring and spacer with no guts in the cartridge there would be no need for a damping rod.
Edited to remove inaccurate information. Replacement information about the cartridges from the Yamaha web site:I totally agree re:the damping rod assembly, however until someone takes one apart there isn't any way to know of the parts diagram is correct. I would think that if the cartridge did not have any guts (damping pistons) the cost would be a lot less than the right fork cartridge.
Fred! I thought we were friends! I am going to sit here and cry for a while...I agree wholeheartedly. I always think that you sound stupid!I know it sounds stupid but... Well, I am used to sounding stupid anyway.
If it was Cook that wrote it, that very well may be the case. He seems quite a bit more credible than the prior editor of MC. But I would have expected for the left fork to have a cartridge (and contribute some damping), just that it is unadjustable beyond the factory settings. A perusal of the parts lists should tell the whole story.I just read the article and was very surprised at Cook's claim that the OEM left fork has a dead cartridge (doesn't have any damping) and Traxxion's fix is a live left cartridge that only has rebound adjustment.......but requires that the fork cap be removed to make that adjustment. Doesn't sound very high tech.
I think you are looking at an earlier model year, the 2013 fork cartridges have part numbers of 1MC-2315K-00-00 and 1MC-2315L-00-00.....at least at the fiche I have been able to find.Funny, when I try the Yamaha fiche both the R & L cartridges have the same P/N and both cost $186.95. I'm betting with the same P/N they are the same partsI totally agree re:the damping rod assembly, however until someone takes one apart there isn't any way to know of the parts diagram is correct. I would think that if the cartridge did not have any guts (damping pistons) the cost would be a lot less than the right fork cartridge.
From the Yamaha web site, definitely the 2013 fiche if only I had clicked on the correct partsI think you are looking at an earlier model year, the 2013 fork cartridges have part numbers of 1MC-2315K-00-00 and 1MC-2315L-00-00.....at least at the fiche I have been able to find.Funny, when I try the Yamaha fiche both the R & L cartridges have the same P/N and both cost $186.95. I'm betting with the same P/N they are the same parts
Gee, I don't know if I can wait that long.....but having access to the internals will certainly end the speculation. Yamaha usually uses lock tight on the damping pistons and you will probably need heat and a 20mm cartridge holder to separate the pistons from the cartridge. Traxxion will probably do it for you if you ask in advance.It'll be a few weeks, but my forks will soon be replaced with AK20s. I'll post up some photos of the OE internals once they're gutted.
The AK-20 will fit the 2013 right leg without modifications but it will take about $375 in parts to modify the left fork for a conventional AK-20 installation. I would rather spend $458 for an entire left fork assembly. It would be fully adjustable with the AK-20 and I could sell it later if I were to part out the AK-20s.Aren't the outers the same as the 2012? You should only need to buy the cap(s) for the 2012 and then get the AK for the 2012, right?
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