My New 2004 FJR1300

[mranalli]

Good Morning All,

I have finally after about a year of looking bought an FJR1300. I have a few problems that maybe a you guys can help with.
2004 33K Miles and Running Strong.

Questions:

The Bike has an aftermarket exhaust on it and it is noted in the service manual that the CO Settings are changed. What does that mean?

The Bad:

Problem One- The right pannier is rippled. The rippled material might be clear coat but is gel like. I have seen one other FJR with this problem. The Pannier cover replacement is $600, and i am hoping someone has a cheaper solution.

Problem Two- The bike seems to be melting my leg off, I have heard that this is a gen one problem but am wondering if there is a solution.

Problem Three- The Bike makes a noise (coming from under the foot pegs maybe). This may be a noise I'm not familiar with beings this is my first fuel injected catalyst bike.

The Good

The bike is incredibly clean, and runs like a champ. Can't wait to put a ton of miles on her. I just bought Avon Sprint ST's for it and am hoping for enough time to mount them soon, did all the fluids except for the Anti-Freeze. Used Castrol 4T 10W-40 (If anyone has a better Oil Recommendation i would love to hear it)

Thank You in advance for any and all advice!

 

[Fred W]

CO settings are accomplished via the Barbarian Jumper mod (google that phrase for more info). In essence, you are varying the ECUs target air fuel ratio, mostly at idle. It makes a small difference in how those bikes run, but not earth shaking.

Melting legs are part of the deal on 1st Gens. Solutions are: Always wear heavy, insulative pants, keep the tank full when its hot out (the tank helps suck up some of the heat), install an insulation blanket under the tank though to keep the fuel from boiling, try some of the first gen heat mods (various flaps and vanes to redirect the air flow) but in the end you just have to suck it up and power through it or bail out and get a later Gen bike that has better heat management.

I rode my first gen for 7 years and ~90k miles, but when it got really hot out in mid summer Id leave it in the garage if I could and rode something else. My 3rd gen OTOH is no problem in the heat. However, that first gen was quicker, more nimble, and more comfortable to ride in the often cool or cold New England weather. You know the thing about no free lunch? Yeah, that.

Not sure about your noise. More info required. Maybe say what conditions it happens at and what it sounds like?

 

[SacramentoMike]

You'll like that heat in a couple months (checked "Swedesboro," see you're in NJ). Meanwhile, a couple other suggestions on the heat would be a set of Baker Air Wings to bring cool air onto your leg (and deflect it away in the cold) and highway pegs so you can get your feet and legs a little out from the hot blast. Enjoy the bike!

 

[Cyclepath]

Welcome to the world of the Gen1 mranalli !

Yes, she'll roast your 'nads a bit on the hot days, but as already stated here, she'll keep you warmer on days when you might instead start getting concerned about the level of grip your tires have on cold pavement (!).

I put an aftermarket rear shock on mine, and freshened the forks with new progressive springs a few years ago. Seats, windshields, alternate luggage, electrical accessory farkles, Barbarian jumper mod, it's all been a part of ownership.

I bought my Gen1 used 7 years ago when she had about 20K miles on the dial, and now with over 80K miles, still has enough grunt, agility, and reliability to keep the smile on my face.

Review the rich set of reference info + first person accounts of others' experiences you'll find here, and I'm confident you'll thoroughly enjoy your FJR for a long time.

BTW, I've been using Shell Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic for about the last 6 years.

 

[mranalli]

All,

Thank you for your responses. The Barbarian MOD tip is huge I've been wondering what the CO change was for though. He added 7 to each cylinder, and documented the OEM numbers. From what im reading this sounds typical but I i can't find a facilitated reason. The bike has an aftermarket exhaust the gargles and pops at low speeds wondering it this is due to the new CO settings. Also I've used Shell Rotella on almost all of my bikes so far so i guess i will use it on this one to. I noticed the OEM Recommended Weight is 20W- 40 i know there is 15W-40 Rotella T6. Since that is closer to OEM should I use that over 5W-40? Also the Ticing noise is only noticeable during slow speeds because its very quiet and almost sounds like a bug flying into a bug zapper over and over again.

 

[Gitbox]

I had a 2004 and never noticed any issue with heat. Same for my current 2008. I guess it is a subjective thing.

 

[roger dodger]

I found an aftermarket foil heat blanket for my '03 and it helped a lot. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mpo/d/osseo-yamaha-fjr-1300-tank-insulator/6940257860.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YAMAHA-FJR1300-FJR-HOT-GAS-FUEL-PETROL-TANK-COOLING-HEAT-FIX-INSULATION-KIT/192733438056?fits=Model%3AFJR1300&epid=1064709993&hash=item2cdfcee068:g:aowAAOSw2s1UtJiM

Many folks have OE exhaust sitting around if you want to go quieter... then you could cancel the added richness from the mod.

Don't worry about oil ... it's water cooled... so most anything works.

I would drain the anti-freeze if the PO hasn't. 15 years is getting kinda cruddy. YMMV

 

[RossKean]

Not sure about the noise. If it is sort of a rattle (can of marbles) on the right hand side, it may be a cam chain tensioner. The original design found on FJRs up to and including some of '07 was replaced with a new design. (The original had issues and caused more than one skipped timing chain and ruined motor.) If the CCT hasn't been replaced then you should do so.

As far as the heat off the pipes is concerned, try resetting the CO settings to the original. Might make a difference but nothing will help much stuck in traffic at 95°F.
All fluids need replacement if they haven't been done recently. (coolant, clutch hydraulic, brake hydraulic, oil, rear drive fluid, fork oil)
(Edit: I see where you said fluids except coolant were changed)
Lube rear brake pivot, shifter linkage and hand levers - remove, clean and grease the brass bushing in the clutch lever! The rear brake pivot tends to get gummed up and stick.

When you can get around to it, you might want to check out the relay arm/shock pivot. This needs to be serviced every couple of years.
You are past due for a valve clearance check if it hasn't been done. This is the best time to change coolant (and spark plugs) since the system has to be drained anyway.
ABS version or not? If ABS, you might want to check and find out if it still actuates properly. Some 1st Gen bikes had issues - especially with the rear ABS. Might not be worth fixing but it is best to know before you need it.

About 500 oil threads on this forum (like most motorcycle forums). The bike isn't fussy - use a non-energy-conserving oil to prevent clutch slippage. Conventional or synthetic. Motorcycle-specific or otherwise. I am partial to the Rotella T6 synthetic (Diesel) oil in 5W40 - a lot cheaper than the MC-specific lubricant. Lots of people use the Rotella T4 conventional oil in a 15W40.

 

[BigOgre]

The bike has an aftermarket exhaust that gargles and pops at low speeds wondering it this is due to the new CO settings.

Next time you lift the tank (maybe to put on your new heat shield?) check to see if the PAIR system is still in place. Removing this, or at least using some form of block off plates, reportedly solves the gargle and pops. Cleans up the engine bay some also.