My Spider Bite Story

[rbentnail]

The first pic is S6, under the glove box, the 2nd most common spider failure.

The second pic is S5, by the thermostat.

The 3rd pic is S2 & S3, under the tank, left, rear.

You really need to find S4, the 1st most common spider failure. It will be directly opposite S5 on the left side. See the first post in this thread, the yellow circle.

The connector could be a contributing factor. This falls under "fix what is obviously wrong" category.

 

[rbentnail]

I'm concerned about something you typed, "I plan on doing some soldering". Be careful with that. What exactly is your plan?

 

[Kilo_07]

Thanks for that!!

As far as the S4 goes... for the life of me I cannot seem to find it. I've pulled the harness back through that little chute that goes between the frame, I've thoroughly inspected that whole area. Apart from literally taking that part of the harness completely out, I haven't found any evidence of S4 being there. I mean, maybe it's so far tucked under there that I'll have to pull the harness out to even see it? The other grounds I've uncovered all look just fine.

As far as soldering goes, I don't think I'll need to follow through with that, everything looks good enough that there wouldn't be any point.

I appreciate your help, thank you so much! I'll keep digging for that S4. Could it be possible that some models could be wired differently and thus not having that S4?

 

[rbentnail]

No, all models are (were) wired the same. Possible it was removed previously? Also, if the recall was done, it will look like a connector with wires in & out instead of dead-ended. Can you post a picture at about the same scale as the first post of this thread?

"Looking at them" isn't good enough. Take each one apart- actually remove the cap and the metal thing underneath it- and apply some electrically conductive corrosion inhibiting compound. I use a brand called NOALOX available at Home Depot. DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE!!!!!

 

[Kilo_07]

This is the area in question. I've pulled the harness up enough to take a look underneath, incase the ground was tucked under the harness or something. Still no luck.

 

[Kilo_07]

No, all models are (were) wired the same. Possible it was removed previously? Also, if the recall was done, it will look like a connector with wires in & out instead of dead-ended. Can you post a picture at about the same scale as the first post of this thread?



"Looking at them" isn't good enough. Take each one apart- actually remove the cap and the metal thing underneath it- and apply some electrically conductive corrosion inhibiting compound. I use a brand called NOALOX available at Home Depot. DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE!!!!!

Never mind, found it... what a PITA...

 

[rbentnail]

That black thing with the 5 dots or holes is the S4. Middle of the pic, far left. See yellow circle below.

 

[Kilo_07]

Man, that was a PITA. Good thing i needed to change the coolant anyways. I had to take the coolant manifold off just to get enough slack in the harness. That sucker was tucked WAY the hell down there lol

 

[rbentnail]

Draining coolant and removing the pipe is exactly what I recommended doing back in 2016. See post #28. No need to reinvent the wheel.

 

[Jeff.patriceh]

Hello all, I'm new to this thread, and studied all the photos. My 09 gen II, 17kmiles, has not had the wiring recalls and set to go in next week. My question, I have found S4 and S6, and the connections from schematics in other threads. All spiders with the caps off, and close inspection looks brand new. No wire/cap burning and the metal splice under the cap is shiny and new. Lh fairing underneath the glove box is also good shape, no burning wiring like seen in these pictures.

Should I have the wiring replaced? Same with the s? spider under drivers seat near the ECU. I was sure a bad ground circuit was causing problems. But now the spiders look good. Where does this ground daisy chain start? Where is the connection to frame, under the battery?

I'm chasing an intermittent stumble running issue. Trouble shot all the vacuum hoses, battery and terminal are clean and 13.5v, 14.2v while running. Bike ran great for a day, and then slowly the stumble returned like one of the cylinders is not firing.

Thanks all.

 

[Jeff.patriceh]

Also, In the 6months I've ridden this never any of the obvious electrical problems have happened, like lights not working, flashing dash lights etc as explained in similar threads.

 

[RossKean]

Hello all, I'm new to this thread, and studied all the photos. My 09 gen II, 17kmiles, has not had the wiring recalls and set to go in next week. My question, I have found S4 and S6, and the connections from schematics in other threads. All spiders with the caps off, and close inspection looks brand new. No wire/cap burning and the metal splice under the cap is shiny and new. Lh fairing underneath the glove box is also good shape, no burning wiring like seen in these pictures.

Should I have the wiring replaced? Same with the s? spider under drivers seat near the ECU. I was sure a bad ground circuit was causing problems. But now the spiders look good. Where does this ground daisy chain start? Where is the connection to frame, under the battery?

I'm chasing an intermittent stumble running issue. Trouble shot all the vacuum hoses, battery and terminal are clean and 13.5v, 14.2v while running. Bike ran great for a day, and then slowly the stumble returned like one of the cylinders is not firing.

Thanks all.

If there is no obvious damage to the harness due to S4 burning, they will only add a sub-harness that addresses that ground. If the harness is cooked, but not related to the S4, I think that becomes your problem.
Grounding problems usually present themselves with strange behavior from dash lights (i.e. signal light and high beam indicators lit) or malfunctioning glove box solenoid, windshield motor etc. Sometimes NOT running, but I don't think poor running is a typical symptom.
Looking at the spiders is important and it would seem that you have ascertained that there is nothing desperately wrong there.

You have checked for fault codes?
TPS is possible, although not that common for Gen II. You might get a clue with the Diag. function to see if the output is in the right range.
Could be a plug wire (or boot). Possibly a coil.
Dirty fuel injector(s).
Blocked in-tank filter (part of the pump) - use a flashlight to look for crud in the tank.
Fuel pump.
Tank vent - does it "woosh" when you open the lid after running or does running behavior change with the lid open?
Sure there is no vacuum leaks, hose off etc?
ECU connector secure.
Honestly, it could be a bunch of things. Perhaps you will have a tech who knows the FJR well enough to pinpoint a root cause for your issue. Without the bike physically in front of you, it is really hard to guess. All we can do is make a few suggestions based upon forum experience.

Good luck...

 

[rbentnail]

Taking the plastic cap off and looking at the top of the spider is NOT sufficient. You MUST pull the metal piece out of the connector to thoroughly inspect it.

 

[RossKean]

Taking the plastic cap off and looking at the top of the spider is NOT sufficient. You MUST pull the metal piece out of the connector to thoroughly inspect it.

I agree, but I don't think his reported symptoms are consistent with a grounding failure. Possible, but less likely than some other stuff IMO.

 

[Jeff.patriceh]

Appreciate the replies. I did pull S6 apart after the advice from rbentnail. They look new. No burning or scorching of the wires or the terminals. I've looked closely thru all the spider splices including S4, plastic and all look new. I was hoping the recall would be the fix, but not now. Today I found and cleaned the main ground lead wire bolted into the block. It looked fine, no corrosion, but cleaned anyway.

As Ross said earlier, I'm moving on to plugs, ignition wires or injectors. Vacuum system and hoses previously inspected and good.


Ecu plug was rremoved today and inspected for bent pins, or wire stress. All was good. Re seated connector on ecu under the seat.

I'm taking it to a Yami repair shop to inspect for the recall. Wish my checkbook good luck.

 

[2GENAE]

Jeff.patriceh while you are looking at those distribution clips that look shiny coat them with Ox Guard etc anti corrosion paste.
They will stay that way we used a solid copper wire and hammered it flat and soldered it on the flat side and ran the other end to the ground to the battery.
My 2008 had the #4 and ignition switch recall done I entered my vin# in Yamaha recall site . I would do this to #4 and #6 and not worry about it in the future.

 

[vzhq16]

The most common cause of a cylinder or two not "carrying their weight" is a throttle body that is out of adjustment. Making sure things are clean (throttle bodies, spark plugs and plug wire connections) is key before you try to sync the throttle bodies. It is also recommended that you check valve lash before hand as well but, they are seldom out of spec. My 2016 had the same issue that was made painfully obvious when I had the Two Brothers cans installed. Post throttle body sync, she purred like a kitten. It significantly reduced handlebar vibration as well.

 

[RossKean]

The most common cause of a cylinder or two not "carrying their weight" is a throttle body that is out of adjustment.

While TBS (throttle body sync) may contribute to rough running and vibration at low RPM and low throttle openings, in my experience it has little effect at higher rpm and even the low RPM effects are not to the extent where the bike is unrideable.

 

[rbentnail]

The most common cause of a cylinder or two not "carrying their weight" is a throttle body that is out of adjustment. Making sure things are clean (throttle bodies, spark plugs and plug wire connections) is key before you try to sync the throttle bodies. It is also recommended that you check valve lash before hand as well but, they are seldom out of spec. My 2016 had the same issue that was made painfully obvious when I had the Two Brothers cans installed. Post throttle body sync, she purred like a kitten. It significantly reduced handlebar vibration as well.

While TBS (throttle body sync) may contribute to rough running and vibration at low RPM and low throttle openings, in my experience it has little effect at higher rpm and even the low RPM effects are not to the extent where the bike is unrideable.

Perhaps the posters would like to start a new thread and not contaminate this very specific Ground Spider one. Juss sayin'.

 

[vzhq16]

Perhaps we got sidetracked trying to help a fellow FJR rider out. How easy it is to get caught up in trying to be helpful. Seems to me that since the diagnosis is headed in the direction that the problem is probably not a spider bite, that would make sense