My Turn

[YummYam]

Had a slight issue a while back when changing up into second under hard acceleration, which I would describe as a split second hesitation.

Rolled off the throttle and all was good. Just like a flat spot, common on poorly adjusted carburation/timing on older engines.

No jerkiness, noise or over revving, just a power 'hole'.

Haven't run a definitive test lately, but seems to have gone away.

 

[mcatrophy]

Had a slight issue a while back when changing up into second under hard acceleration, which I would describe as a split second hesitation.
Rolled off the throttle and all was good. Just like a flat spot, common on poorly adjusted carburation/timing on older engines.

No jerkiness, noise or over revving, just a power 'hole'.

Haven't run a definitive test lately, but seems to have gone away.

Might be your YCC-S reducing power a bit if the revs are too high for the new gear. It will do this (by retarding the ignition) until the speed and revs match in the new gear, the clutch slipping the while. Dip the throttle momentarily as you change up, don't simply hold the throttle as you change up.
Of course, with my Gen 3, it sorts the engine revs for me. WOT up changes are phenominal.

 

[RadioHowie]

Mr. Trophy, Rob's (LKLD's) 2013 is an A model, not an AE...

Rob, if - IF you have to go swapping parts, I've got a perfectly good 2004 tranny (still in the motor) sitting in my garage, since wfooshee never came and got it.

If you decide to drop your mill and split the case, come get my old, dead lump and save yourself some $$$$$.

 

[mcatrophy]

Mr. Trophy, Rob's (LKLD's) 2013 is an A model, not an AE...
...

True, but my response was to YummYam, with his quote. Unfortunately, the forum software no longer puts the name of the quotee in the quted text, like wot it used to.

 

[s.ga.rider]

I had clutch slippage on a cbr1000 and r1. Both were only 2nd gear and were fine after I replaced the clutch which is fairly simple on the fjr. The best way to describe my situation was it was like the rear tire broke loose and was spinning under acceleration. It would stop pulling and the revs would jump up then catch back when I stopped the hard acceleration. You need to explain it more. A clutch can be a $200 fix yourself thing.

 

[LKLD]

The best way to describe my situation was it was like the rear tire broke loose and was spinning under acceleration. It would stop pulling and the revs would jump up then catch back when I stopped the hard acceleration.

I would say this best describes what's happening with me. Say getting on a on-ramp, shift to 2nd, and roll on full throttle. Then there will be a very brief moment where revs go up, no acceleration, then it'll catch and go again. This feels like a 1/2 - 1 second in duration. Also, it isn't consistent. It doesn't do it regularly, just occasionally. I haven't noticed any harsh noises when it happens.
As far a oil, I've only used Yamalube since new. Last oil change was approx. 3,000 miles ago. Bike has just over 35,000 miles.

I tried searching here on the forum for 2nd gear issues, and came across some threads. I read where a bent shifter fork was causing the issue, so I thought maybe that's what I might be dealing with. But before assuming that, I created this thread in hopes of confirming it, or seeing if it was something else. I'm glad I did.

Thank you all for your help. I'm reading your posts intently, and with humility of your knowledge.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If its NOT clunking in and out of gear, its likely NOT gear box related...

If the RPM's are rising then the bike accelerates, or if you let off the throttle slightly and it grabs, that sounds very much like your clutch is slipping slightly.

From a dead stop, if you get it rolling and nail it hard, do you get ANY CLUTCH SLIPPAGE IN FIRST GEAR??

 

[YummYam]

Had a slight issue a while back when changing up into second under hard acceleration, which I would describe as a split second hesitation.

Rolled off the throttle and all was good. Just like a flat spot, common on poorly adjusted carburation/timing on older engines.

No jerkiness, noise or over revving, just a power 'hole'.

Haven't run a definitive test lately, but seems to have gone away.

Might be your YCC-S reducing power a bit if the revs are too high for the new gear. It will do this (by retarding the ignition) until the speed and revs match in the new gear, the clutch slipping the while. Dip the throttle momentarily as you change up, don't simply hold the throttle as you change up.Of course, with my Gen 3, it sorts the engine revs for me. WOT up changes are phenominal.

Don't usually keep the throttle open during upshifts, maybe did on that occasion.

The 15's seem to have it all covered though. ☺

 

[HotRodZilla]

That sure doesn't sound like it's popping out of gear. That's very distinct. It sounds more like a slippage issue. Since I'm on the mobile version, I don't know what year you have, but miles probably matters more.

Have you been hard on the clutch? Any other reason you may be gettin slip? I'd gas it hard in 1st and see if it does it there. As said before, this may just require new plates. Hell, I'd probably try that before anything. Cheap and easy as heck!!

Good luck!!

 

[wfooshee]

Bent fork CANNOT cause what you describe. I bit when you mentioned bent fork in your first post, and went all-out on the second-gear dog issues.

What you just described is clutch slip, which is not enough friction between the clutch plates. It usually happens in second more than other gears because for most riders, that's the most aggressive upshift.

It's really easy to work on. The clutch discs come out the right side of the bike after removing a cover plate and some bolts. If they are below minimum thickness, replace them. Done.

 

[Mihalis fjr]

I think if i remember right that ''mcatrophy'' shows somewhere with photos a very detailed procedure about that job..

 

[Fred W]

FWIW - When testing for clutch slip, the most prevalent slippage should occur in higher gears (not 1st) at slower road speeds. Higher gears put a greater resistance (load) on the output side of the clutch. Since the clutch is driven off the crankshaft, the input power to the clutch is always about the same at a given rpm.

The reason that it often shows up in 2nd gear first is that is where you are more likely to whack the throttle wide open at an rpm that the engine makes good power at and a relatively low road speed.

The old test for a weak clutch on a car was to put the car in a high gear at a stop, rev the engine a little and dump the clutch. If the engine stalls all is good. If the clutch slips you've answered your question and the clutch needs attention.

 

[hppants]

In case you are interested in doing this yourself, I think this video depicts your task fairly well (generation II v/s III issues aside)



I consider myself a parts changer (not a mechanic). I could do this job.

 

[mcatrophy]

I think if i remember right that ''mcatrophy'' shows somewhere with photos a very detailed procedure about that job..

Posted here, and direct link to pictures.

 

[Mihalis fjr]

I think if i remember right that ''mcatrophy'' shows somewhere with photos a very detailed procedure about that job..

Posted here, and direct link to pictures.

Correct!

 

[s.ga.rider]

Just pull the clutch plates out and see if theyre burnt. Its fairly simple.Pulled mine out about a month ago. Its an hour job and lots of info on here. That would be the easiest way to diagnose it.

 

[infrared]

Just pull the clutch plates out and see if theyre burnt. Its fairly simple.Pulled mine out about a month ago. Its an hour job and lots of info on here. That would be the easiest way to diagnose it.

LKLD,

If you do that, there is a thickness spec on the whole clutch-pack. It's a quick check. If the stack is not thick enough, the clutch will slip. A new clutch-pack is often a cheaper (and better) fix than replacing just a few thin plates. Aftermarket clutch-packs may cost less than OEM. It's not a difficult job to replace the pack, and there is a lot of help here in pix and videos to help you. Give the new plates a soak in oil first, if you decide to replace the plates.

Cheers,

Infrared

 

[Fred W]

^^^ This.

It's the total stack dimension that matters. That and be sure there is nothing impeding the clutch release rod or slave.

 

[LKLD]

Wow, thanks everyone!

I'm feeling better about this. Will do the pack replacement, and be done with it. I'll use the videos posted to help with it, and give it a try myself. I guess the Yamaha part houses should be my first step.

Once I get them, and start the install, I'll post here on progress and possible questions/issues that may arise.

Again, thank you.

 

[LKLD]

Question:

Should I buy just the friction plates, or buy the complete set of friction and metal plates?