My Turn

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just something to consider.

If the labor (if there have to do a tear down), (you can find someone you trust-a good shop), and its going to be approx 2K to repair, would it be worth your while to trade it in on a left over "newer" model?

The $ difference may be fairly close...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Can you post an audio/video of just like above? Maybe with the PU speaker close to both the clutch side and maybe another clip closer to the gear box?

If you don't have stock pipes, maybe put those back on for recording purposes?

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Well, that brings us full circle. So that ever so slight pause was because of gear cog and shifter fork issues? Was there grinding, noise, as others have mentioned, associated with it? I noticed that in your video, it seemed barely noticeable, where as with me it's much more noticeable, especially in duration.

There's a clunk, but it happens so quickly that it might not be noticed. That can happen a couple/few times as the trans is popping in and out, trying to find a set of dogs that will grab and hold. What the video isn't able to show is that it can be felt more than anything, the instantaneous loss of acceleration for a fraction of a second. A slipping clutch would not be so abrupt.

 

[RadioHowie]

Here's a thought....let another FJR Pilot give your bike a ride and get a second opinion....(hint-hint-hint)....perhaps someone who works right across the street from you and has a spare, good transmission sitting in his garage, collecting dust.

 

[LKLD]

Why not Howie, at this point, it would be good to have someone else understand what it's doing.

 

[majicmaker]

Damn good idea, Howie. Let us know what you think. I was planning to go to Rob's house to help him fix that thing.

 

[hppants]

IMNSHO - the situation I heard in that video does NOT seem like a clutch issue. It sounds like a tranny issue.

Is that more like what you are experiencing? Or is it more like clutch slippage, where the motor revs up higher than the wheel speed for the given conditions?

 

[LKLD]

Mine revs up, as though you pulled the clutch in very so briefly, like a tap on the clutch lever.

Checked clutch reservoir---all good.

Checked oil level----all good

Just pulled cover off clutch assembly. Noticed the 2 triangles at top, and outer plate with pink mark. Do these have any correlation to one another? Want to make sure I put back together correctly.

https://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/LKLD/misc/2013%20Yamaha%20FJR1300/FJR%20Clutch/image_zpsebtcgiwi.jpeg

 

[Fred W]

Pink marks do not seem to be important in my experience. I took mine out and then just stuck them back in however they fit correctly and there was no issue.

Before you idssassemble it, you can watch how the clutch pack behaves as you exercise the clutch. Make sure there is no delay of the pressure plate reseating when the lever is released.

 

[LKLD]

Too late Fred, every plate is out, even the last two!

Nothing stands out as obvious, cracks, excessive wear, etc.. It is a bit filthy though. https://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/LKLD/misc/2013%20Yamaha%20FJR1300/FJR%20Clutch/image_zpsrfgnqhym.jpeg

How should I mic the plate pack, now that it's apart?

Just fiber, fiber and metal?

 

[RossKean]

Fibre disks look like crap. Personally, I think I would clean the steel disks and reuse them but replace the fibre disks after giving the new ones a soak in clean oil for a couple of hours. I think I would also replace the spring.

 

[Fred W]

There's a lot of crud in your basket in those photos. At the bare minimum I'd clean everything up really well, then dunk them all in oil before reassembly.

Measuring can be done individually if you have a vernier caliper or micrometer. I'll look up the specs and post back here in a minute.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

**Possibly comparing apples to oranges, but on my FZ6, the INNER CLUTCH HUB has a mark that must align with a mark on the Outer pressure plate. The inner most disc is also a different thickness.

I don't have my FJR manual anymore, so someone may want to double check that...

 

[LKLD]

Here's what they look like after wiping them off. https://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/LKLD/misc/2013%20Yamaha%20FJR1300/FJR%20Clutch/image_zpsufgngfjj.jpeg

Except for the utmost inner, outer, and #4, they were grungy.

 

[mcatrophy]

Noticed the 2 triangles at top, and outer plate with pink mark. Do these have any correlation to one another? Want to make sure I put back together correctly.https://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/LKLD/misc/2013https://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/LKLD/misc/2013 Yamaha FJR1300/FJR Clutch/image_zpsebtcgiwi.jpeg

My understanding is that the pink dots should be between the triangle marks, though I have no idea why.(click on image for larger view)

 

[Fred W]

OK, here's a photo of the whole assembly.

Note that the outermost friction plate (#9) and the very innermost plates (#15 and #16) are different than the rest.

So the first friction plate is unique, then you have seven metal plates (# 10) and 7 regular friction plates (#11).

Did you remove the snap ring (#14) and remove the inner most pair? Not sure that you'll want to do that. They are just there as a "damper" noit really for clutch action. So since you don't have any chattering those should not be the problem. edit - Just counted plates in your photo. Looks like you took them all out. That's fine.

Friction plate thickness
2.9 ~ 3.1 mm (0.114 ~ 0.122 in)
<Limit>: 2.8 mm (0.110 in)

Also, FWIW, when I disassembled my virgin '05 clutch pack the pink marks were not between the triangles. Looking at his "before" photo, neither were his. YMMV

 

[LKLD]

I've got the middle discs soaking in oil. The inner and outer ones (the only wet ones) measured at 0.112. Of course I'm using an inexpensive, plastic mic. For reference, the metal ones were 0.08.

 

[Fred W]

Hmmm... .112 is below the low end of normal spec range, but above spec. limit. If they all mike out at ~ .112 I guess I'd be ordering friction plates. There is no nominal thickness on the metal plates, only a warpage spec.

 

[LKLD]

Yeah, I was using that measurement as a reference for what my mic shows.

So now I'm beginning to think I went too far pulling those last two plates out. That retaining wire is killing me! Any advice (constructive ) or tricks?

 

[Fred W]

So, the FSM shows you install the damper assy (those first two plates) with the clutch's center hub out of the basket on a work bench. I'm sure that would make it easier.

I never took mine out, but it looks like you need to be sure to install the clutch damper spring seat first, then the damper spring (make sure the side marked "OUTSIDE" is out, then the friction plate into the basket and then the steel plate onto the hub. With all that in you'd need to push in on the outer steel plate against the damper spring to get the big wire spring clip into the groove. You might be able to push in on one side, get the end of the wire clip started in the groove, and then work your way around in a circle?

Good luck.