mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
I have never had such difficulties with an FJR rear wheel.
First problem was undoing the spindle nut. For my last three FJRs, I've used a large adjustable spanner (crescent wrench). Always the first time undoing has required some effort, but I've always managed it without too much difficulty and no swearing.
This time, it just wouldn't move. It was TIGHT. I started to tip the bike over lifting on the handle, just caught it. Got a big hammer onto the handle, but it started to chew the nut.
So, went out and bought a 27mm socket and an 18 inch breaker bar (could only get a deep socket in a six-point, and I didn't trust a 12-point to not chew the nut some more). Had to lightly tap the socket to get it onto my slightly distorted nut, but it finally fitted nicely.
With the breaker bar sticking straight out of the back, left hand pulling down on the luggage rack, right pulling up on the bar, I used all of my (somewhat limited) strength combined with some moderate cussing.
Just about to give up, when it clicked and moved a fraction. Stopped to check it wasn't the socket cracked open or the breaker bar hinge (wouldn't be the first I've managed to break), but all seemed ok.
Made myself a cup of tea, always helps in these sorts of situations. Then, I resumed the position, and with that little extra from caffeine and tannin, it did another couple of its tick movements (so far about two inches up on the end of the breaker bar), but at last it started to undo. Still required a lot of effort, but after about half a turn I was able to replace the breaker bar with a ratchet, and off it came.
The rest of getting the wheel off was easy, I supported the weight of the wheel by sliding some wood under the tyre, loosened the pinch bolt, and drifted the axle out (that did give me a momentary pause at one point, but a slightly harder knock with my trusty block of wood, it popped right out.
Remembered I have to undo the brake control arm. Stiff wasn't the word for it. Tried to undo the nut using a 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet - wouldn't touch it. So a half-inch drive socket, three extensions to get it out the other side of the bike, and my new friend (the 18-inch breaker bar), I could start it turning. Of course, once just slightly loose you have to get an Allen key into the bolt head, made difficult by the brake line and speed sensor wire that's tightly positioned just in the way.
So, managed to undo that, everything fell out nicely, extracted the wheel. Phew.
(click on image for larger view)
That was yesterday, Sunday. This morning I take the wheel to my friendly local tyre man (he does all sorts of maintenance, runs his business to fund his racing hobby). Watch him change the tyre. He has a lot of trouble getting the bead off the rim - says "This is bl**dy tight". I tell him I'm not surprised, the rest of the job's been that way. But with a combination of tyre levers, some sort of release agent, and a few more expletives, he gets it off. Pops on a new valve and the new tyre, balances it, and home I go with it.
Come to put it on the bike.
Feed the wheel into position, offer it up to the spline.
In the past, my technique has been to stand on the left of the bike, lean over and hold the top of the rim with one hand each side. A little bit of wriggling, and it pops into position.
This time? Will it seat? Hell, no, this is the nightmare job. No way is this going to go into place. Even another cup of tea doesn't help, now I know this is bad.
Move the wheel out, look over everything, only thing I'm not sure of is the spacer, item 11 in the diagram.
It seems to stick out from the pumpkin a long way, but a careful measurement shows it's just right.
Then I realise the bike is in neutral (I'd put it in neutral to help getting my supporting wood in and out). When I jiggle the wheel, the pumpkin can simply follow it, if the splines aren't aligned exactly, it's not going in. So, put the wheel down, side-stand up (YCC-S won't go into gear with the side-stand down) ignition on, flick the shift lever, actuators make the usual noise - but display shows we are still in neutral. Try another couple of times, nope, it's not going in (even tried it manually, pushing the actuator rod).
Well, why not have another problem? We already know this is a nightmare job.
Ok, in normal riding, this does happen very occasionally. All we need to do is rock the bike an inch or so, and it will snick in. But the wheel isn't on, can't rock it.
So I pick up the wheel, push it against the splines (still won't go in, but we already knew there was no chance of that), turn it a bit to move the transmission, put the wheel down, try the gear-change again. Aha! First gear!
Lift the wheel up again, and - wonder of wonders - after a bit more wiggling it goes into place!
The rest was a bit of an anticlimax, it all went together quite easily (usual greasing etc that I always do). Even the wheel sensor plate slots aligned without me doing anything. Oh, yes, I dressed the axle nut a bit with a file to make it a little more hexagonal.
Now all I need to do is find a private road to check the balance.
First problem was undoing the spindle nut. For my last three FJRs, I've used a large adjustable spanner (crescent wrench). Always the first time undoing has required some effort, but I've always managed it without too much difficulty and no swearing.
This time, it just wouldn't move. It was TIGHT. I started to tip the bike over lifting on the handle, just caught it. Got a big hammer onto the handle, but it started to chew the nut.
So, went out and bought a 27mm socket and an 18 inch breaker bar (could only get a deep socket in a six-point, and I didn't trust a 12-point to not chew the nut some more). Had to lightly tap the socket to get it onto my slightly distorted nut, but it finally fitted nicely.
With the breaker bar sticking straight out of the back, left hand pulling down on the luggage rack, right pulling up on the bar, I used all of my (somewhat limited) strength combined with some moderate cussing.
Just about to give up, when it clicked and moved a fraction. Stopped to check it wasn't the socket cracked open or the breaker bar hinge (wouldn't be the first I've managed to break), but all seemed ok.
Made myself a cup of tea, always helps in these sorts of situations. Then, I resumed the position, and with that little extra from caffeine and tannin, it did another couple of its tick movements (so far about two inches up on the end of the breaker bar), but at last it started to undo. Still required a lot of effort, but after about half a turn I was able to replace the breaker bar with a ratchet, and off it came.
The rest of getting the wheel off was easy, I supported the weight of the wheel by sliding some wood under the tyre, loosened the pinch bolt, and drifted the axle out (that did give me a momentary pause at one point, but a slightly harder knock with my trusty block of wood, it popped right out.
Remembered I have to undo the brake control arm. Stiff wasn't the word for it. Tried to undo the nut using a 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet - wouldn't touch it. So a half-inch drive socket, three extensions to get it out the other side of the bike, and my new friend (the 18-inch breaker bar), I could start it turning. Of course, once just slightly loose you have to get an Allen key into the bolt head, made difficult by the brake line and speed sensor wire that's tightly positioned just in the way.
So, managed to undo that, everything fell out nicely, extracted the wheel. Phew.
(click on image for larger view)
That was yesterday, Sunday. This morning I take the wheel to my friendly local tyre man (he does all sorts of maintenance, runs his business to fund his racing hobby). Watch him change the tyre. He has a lot of trouble getting the bead off the rim - says "This is bl**dy tight". I tell him I'm not surprised, the rest of the job's been that way. But with a combination of tyre levers, some sort of release agent, and a few more expletives, he gets it off. Pops on a new valve and the new tyre, balances it, and home I go with it.
Come to put it on the bike.
Feed the wheel into position, offer it up to the spline.
In the past, my technique has been to stand on the left of the bike, lean over and hold the top of the rim with one hand each side. A little bit of wriggling, and it pops into position.
This time? Will it seat? Hell, no, this is the nightmare job. No way is this going to go into place. Even another cup of tea doesn't help, now I know this is bad.
Move the wheel out, look over everything, only thing I'm not sure of is the spacer, item 11 in the diagram.
It seems to stick out from the pumpkin a long way, but a careful measurement shows it's just right.
Then I realise the bike is in neutral (I'd put it in neutral to help getting my supporting wood in and out). When I jiggle the wheel, the pumpkin can simply follow it, if the splines aren't aligned exactly, it's not going in. So, put the wheel down, side-stand up (YCC-S won't go into gear with the side-stand down) ignition on, flick the shift lever, actuators make the usual noise - but display shows we are still in neutral. Try another couple of times, nope, it's not going in (even tried it manually, pushing the actuator rod).
Well, why not have another problem? We already know this is a nightmare job.
Ok, in normal riding, this does happen very occasionally. All we need to do is rock the bike an inch or so, and it will snick in. But the wheel isn't on, can't rock it.
So I pick up the wheel, push it against the splines (still won't go in, but we already knew there was no chance of that), turn it a bit to move the transmission, put the wheel down, try the gear-change again. Aha! First gear!
Lift the wheel up again, and - wonder of wonders - after a bit more wiggling it goes into place!
The rest was a bit of an anticlimax, it all went together quite easily (usual greasing etc that I always do). Even the wheel sensor plate slots aligned without me doing anything. Oh, yes, I dressed the axle nut a bit with a file to make it a little more hexagonal.
Now all I need to do is find a private road to check the balance.
Last edited: