Newbie questions

[Zolton]

Hi everyone. I've just made a deal on a mint '06 FJR but haven't picked it up from the seller yet. I currently own an '04 Suzuki SV650 (naked) and have done a fair bit of modifications to it. They've been a mix of performance improvements and long distance riding modifications. Turns out...I like to tour on the little beast, which is why I now own both the SV and an FJR. My girlfriend has expressed a keen interest in joining me on my adventures and the SV isn't the best two-up distance machine so I did my homework and here I am. I've never ridden anything larger or more powerful than my 350lb, 75hp SV. It goes like a shot and is great in the twisties but this is a big step up I know.

O.K. First off, this FJR is a beauty with 10,000 km on the clock and about 100 coats of wax. The previous owner babied the thing big time. It comes with a Corbin Smuggler, a rad screen, different grips, re-worked seat and custom made lowering links (machined from high grade stainless).

The questions; How much lowering is too much? I know there is a safe limit to lower any bike. This guy says the bike is about 3/4 inch lower measured at the seat. I may install the stock links to check out the height diff myself. Is this a reasonable amount to have an FJR lowered? Secondly...I currently have a smallish Givi top case (30 liters) which I have mounted to a spare passenger seat and pop it on and off the SV when ever needed. It's a "Tour E30" and comes with the monolock #076-M5M mounting plate (a universal fit unit). Givi says I need a Monokey #076-SR357 mounting plate in order for this particuar top box to work on the '06 FJR. The friggin mounting plate is $30.00 more than the cost of the top box! Do I really need this mounting plate, or will the one that came with the top box work on the FJR?

I'll have lots more questions once I get my little hands on the bike but these will get me started. Thanks for your help.

 

[madmike2]

3/4" lowering isn't "drastic" but if you are aggressive in the corners you might drag a peg. They aren't that difficult to swap out, so try the stock dogbones. The stockers will help raise the ride height when you are 2-up and loaded.

If you are going to use your small Givi, you would probably be alright using the universal mounting plate. I know its against the gospel...and certainly against my "best" advice...but the "30" is small and if you load it light you should be okay. Its been done before. Be careful and inspect the rack often if she is using it as a backrest because the OEM rack is nylon'plastic and not "all" that strong.

Caveat: Should you decide to go to a larger topcase, I would certainly buy the complete rack/mounting plate as they are very strong and stable.

 

[RatoneMuerto]

Welcome aboard!You have bought probably the best all round sport tourer on the planet!You lucky man.At least you wont have the riding heat issues like on the earlier models. There is a couple here in Texas that do exactly what you are proposing to do.He rides the new ZX14 Kaw and she rides his old DL.She carries the goodies in the bags and he has a tank bag with back pack.If you are both going to ride on the FJR then get the stock dogbones.You will need the ride height.Sounds as if the previous owner set it up for solo flight.Pretty simple to change out.My best tip is to be an addictive reader to this forum and keep an eye on eBay.I concur with Mike here about the bigger trunk.You will be surprised at how much stuff you seem to need to carry.Makes it easier to have a reason to go grocery shopping.I got the heavy duty Givi rack,trunk mount and 46 liter trunk with a top rack for under $285 off eBay.Retail for that item was way over $500.Patience equals money saved my friend.Yamaha did have a notice/warning about the stock rack cracking on all models and no one wants to go highway curling with their goodies.Check with the dealer and see if your model had any recalls.I dont think the 06 had any but it is always wise to be safe than sorry.Also did the previous owner purchase the YES program?Really big bonus for you if he did!Investigate the install of some type of cruise control.There are several varieties out there from under $50 to over $500 for a totally electronic one.Lots of info here on the forum on those subjects.On another note there has been a problem that has popped up by those who may overload the top box with the stock rack so you might be on target with the small box.If you do get a bigger box the GIVI rack spreads the load out over the subframe.You can read about the subframes cracking on this forum.The 06 has loads of items that make for an outstanding comfortable ride for very little money.You can even add highway pegs without cutting the plastic on your model!You lucky dog!

 

[mikeyb]

I think that the reason that people "lower" the bike is that they would like to easy the pain in their knees from riding a more aggressive style bike and to reach the ground with their feet.. The problem is that the "lowering" reduces turn clearance and I am guessing that is not something that you need (lowering) or want (reduced clearance). This bike will not lean as much as your Suzuki before hitting something.

The custom seat also can "lower" the bike but not in a reduced clearance standpoint but by lowering the seating surface. You can raise this back up as the FJR has 2 seating positions high and low that can be adjusted under the seat and is shown in the manual.

As far as the Givi goes take a look at the V46 case. This is a case that has a changeable lid that can color match the FJR. So even if you use your 30L now you might upgrade later to this nice looking case and will want to have the proper attachments. I like the SW-MOTECH plate as I did not have to remove the OEM grab handle.

Here is a link https://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2745/114/

Good luck and good choice.

 

[keithaba]

Did he lower it by only putting on new dogbones?

If he has the stock shock still on, it may not be stiff enough to compensate for the lost clearance. That will result in pegs touching down pretty early, and after the pegs hit, you don't have much to go before other hard parts start hitting.

clicky

He has a wilburs shock that was built for a lowered bike. This might help with the clearance issue, not because it will be higher, but because the shock is sprung better. You might want to look into it if you would like to keep the bike lowered, and still be able to tackel some twisties.

 

[Zolton]

Did he lower it by only putting on new dogbones?
If he has the stock shock still on, it may not be stiff enough to compensate for the lost clearance. That will result in pegs touching down pretty early, and after the pegs hit, you don't have much to go before other hard parts start hitting.

clicky

He has a wilburs shock that was built for a lowered bike. This might help with the clearance issue, not because it will be higher, but because the shock is sprung better. You might want to look into it if you would like to keep the bike lowered, and still be able to tackel some twisties.

The stock dogbones are included with the bike and I will probably put them back on. The ones on it were custom made locally. I bought the FJR to ride two-up with my girlfriend. I'm keeping the SV for solo rides with my buddies. The best of both worlds in my opinion. Considering that our Canadian dollar is now on par (or even a bit higher) than the US buck, I paid a large amount for this unit. But it was a fair price for local market. New, here in Ontario, this bike would have cost $22,000 taxes in and that includes the smuggler.

So I should be cautious regarding loading up the stock rack. OK.

Another question....I have a utility trailer set up to haul my SV around if ness. I will use it to bring the FJR home if possible. What are the guidlines regarding using handle bar tie down straps with the second gen FJR? I'd imagine the bars are plenty stong enough to be used for tie down purposes no?

 

[madmike2]

Another question....I have a utility trailer set up to haul my SV around if ness. I will use it to bring the FJR home if possible. What are the guidlines regarding using handle bar tie down straps with the second gen FJR? I'd imagine the bars are plenty stong enough to be used for tie down purposes no?

Generally....there are too many opinions. I prefer NOT to rely on the handle bars as they are cast and bolted to the triple-tree. I much prefer to tie mine by "crossing" ties under the nosepiece and attach to the lower triple tree (if you can clear the fender, etc.). I use the handlebars as a secondary tie down and also tie the rear by using the passenger footpeg brackets.

Here's a link to an article about tying down your FJR.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I would tie the FJR down with no less than five straps. Two on the bar ends, two on the passenger peg brackets and one across the rear wheel. More if you can, but never less. Wrapping the front wheel into the wheel chock (if you have one on the trailer) is also a great idea.

Watch for any place that the straps can touch the fairing panels. It only takes a few miles at highway speed to make a nasty rub mark on the plastic.

I now have a Canyon Dancer bar strap and highly recommend it, as part of what I mentioned above.

Found a few pics of my 05 strapped into my trailer last year.

 

[odot]

Ha ha..............jeff trailers his motorcycle. Hope the gas mileage is good with that truck.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Mint, yet to be seen. Thats funny dood!

Wanna buy some property?

:jester:

 

[Bustanut joker]

Ha ha..............jeff trailers his motorcycle. Hope the gas mileage is good with that truck.

Gotta wonder Whos wearin out his tires eh?

:jester:

 

[Silver Penguin]

My '03 is lowered 3/4" with dogbones. I've only scraped a peg once in about 20K miles, but then again I don't ride two up and am not by any means of the squiddly nature. The drawbacks to lowering the bike, for me, are that that it will ground on the bigger speed bumps. The side stand had to be tweaked to be of any use at all and even now, I have to be careful where I park. The center stand can no longer be activated by one person.

That being said, it's worth it to me. With 3/4" extra, I can touch a toe town on each side of the bike at the same time now.

Jill

 

[Zolton]

I just rode the bike home last night (only stalled it twice...sheesh, touchy clutch eh?) This is a whole new beast compared to what I'm used to. But I expected as much, why else buy it? The lean while on the side stand is minimal so I'll have to keep an eye on that. I also noticed that it looks like the Givi top case bracket I have won't work with the stock tail unit. Unless there's something I'm not seeing at the moment.

 

[Rogue]

Welcome! I'm sure you'll love your new FJR. How tall are you? Do you need the lowering kit?

Ha ha..............jeff trailers his motorcycle. Hope the gas mileage is good with that truck.

He has to do something to slow down all those tickets!

 

[Wicked Webby]

If you want the bike to handle the way it was designed to I would put the stock dog bones back on.

WW

 

[Zolton]

Welcome! I'm sure you'll love your new FJR. How tall are you? Do you need the lowering kit?

I'm a smallish guy. 5 ft 6.5 inches and due to a recent illness I only weigh about 134 lbs at the moment. My previous weight was 152lbs and I'm working at gaining it back but it is coming very slowly. It may never all come back. I just turned 50 yrs old but am in good shape (being a Canadian, I of course play hockey :grin: ). I'm going to keep these lowing links on till I get used to the bike and how to handle it with my girlfriend on the back, but I will remove them soon. Like I said, I have an '04 SV650 and like to ride with gusto (been to the dragon a couple of times with it and would like to take the FJR there too). I plan on riding from here (near Toronto) through Vermont and New Hampshire in a week or so, so I'll have them off before then. I have a garage with hoisting points in the ceiling. Anyone know the best point at which to hoist the rear end from?

 

[rocketman]

If you want to increase the lean on the kick stand, you can cut or grind off a small amount of the kick stand stop. The kick stand will angle forward more (less likly to kick out) and bike will lean to left more.

 

[krashdragon]

I had my bike lowered, Mark (dont' know his forum name) replace the shorter wilber's rear shock with something a bit higher, so the wilber's is for sale, I dont' know about the front springs. He scraped but I never got the change to do any real canyon carving, so it was fine for me.

I did have the sidestand rebent with more lean, tho.

Mary

 

[Zolton]

Just got the stock dogbones back on. Seems the home made ones that came on the bike had lowered it an inch and an eighth. That should give me more conrnering clearance. I also lubed the drive splines while I was at it. I'm off to Vermont and New Hampshire this weekend...I hope I don't get frostbite