Nitrous

[Karmak]

Karmak,

This is the first NOS system I have ever heard about that doesn't require timing reduction.

Which system is it? You got a link? Brand/make model?

Interesting,

WW

https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/

This should get you there-the tech guys are great-I have been corresponding with Dan.

 

[Karmak]

And I thought I had the need for speed. The FJR's top end is north of 150mph. How fast do you want to go? Where are you going be when you hit the nitrous button? West Texas? LOL.

I would love to see it when it lights off.

Glenn

How fast? Imagine one of my old drag bikes: A KZ1000 bored out to 1166, ported/polished, Mikuni smooth bores, cam so big had to grind out buckets (idled like "whump, whump, whump), electric shift, cut/raked, 750 Kawi swing arm (longer than stock), with another brace welded on to stand the torque (had to streeeetch it out to keep it planted), stepped seat (so

I wouldn't get launched off the back), beefed up clutch, crank....those were the days!

 

[Karmak]

karmak,

if you ever decide to do it with your fj, please come visit us at the yahoo list. lots of engineer and otherwise handy folk over there. one guy is putting fuel injection in his fj. heck, come on over and discuss it on your fjr, even.

dean

cincinnati

I actually had one of the first FJ1200s in '86 and did some mods on that. I have been looking at my current '87 with an evil eye. One thing they need right off the bat is a beefier clutch and that will get the front off the ground when you whack it. I do have a Dial-a-jet and headers on the '87. The FJ's engine is so accessible it is always tempting to fiddle with it. The problem is my son has taken a liking to it. I absolutely love the sound of the Supertrapp headers, a beautiful howl when you come on the pipe.

 

[Karmak]

Karmak,

This is the first NOS system I have ever heard about that doesn't require timing reduction.

Which system is it? You got a link? Brand/make model?

Interesting,

WW

Copy excerpt from instructions:

Read all instructions before attempting to install your DynoTune nitrous system.

Make sure your fuel delivery system is adequate for the nitrous jetting you have chosen. Inadequate fuel

pressure or flow will result in engine damage.

Use 14-gauge (minimum) wire when installing electrical system components.

Use high-quality connections at all electrical joints.

Use Teflon-based paste on pipe-style fittings.

Make sure your engine and related components (ignition, carburetor, and driveline) are in proper working

condition. Do not use any performance chip or modified computer that advances timing more than stock.

If nitrous is accidentally injected into the engine when it is not running, remove the engine coil wire, open

the throttle, and crank the engine 10 to 15 seconds before starting. Failure to do so can result in an

explosive engine failure.

Use your DynoTune nitrous system only at wide-open throttle and at engine speeds above 4000 RPM.

Use a high-quality fuel, as suggested in Chapter 3, Baseline Tuning Suggestions.

 

[dean]

I actually had one of the first FJ1200s in '86 and did some mods on that. I have been looking at my current '87 with an evil eye. One thing they need right off the bat is a beefier clutch and that will get the front off the ground when you whack it. I do have a Dial-a-jet and headers on the '87. The FJ's engine is so accessible it is always tempting to fiddle with it. The problem is my son has taken a liking to it. I absolutely love the sound of the Supertrapp headers, a beautiful howl when you come on the pipe.

you do know one of the easy mods re: the clutch is to add an fjr clutch spring? don't even have to drain the oil if you do it right. just put it on the side stand, and you get enough lean that it's fine the way it is.

fj's (and fjr's) are known for their torque, but you gotta love that surge at about 6800 rpm. kookaloo!

dean

cincinnati

 

[jdeez1]

I thought about using a my power commander with a nitrous set up. Now that they have a 2 position, 2 map switch. You can have the switch arm the nitrous system and go to the fuel rich and timing retarded map. The only thing holding me back is money,

$500 bucks seems like it would be better spent on a nice comfy saddle , but if money was no object I would mount the bottle right were my left exhaust can is MIA and quell the rice boys wanting to race without even movin

 

[wfooshee]

Everybody keeps talking about timing and Power Commander. Where does a Power Commander do timing? All it does is fuel amount, right?

 

[Fred W]

Everybody keeps talking about timing and Power Commander. Where does a Power Commander do timing? All it does is fuel amount, right?

The Power Commander has the ability to map and adjust timing, we are just not using that feature on the FJR installations.

 

[ionbeam]

we are just not using that feature on the FJR installations.

Let me clarify this statement a bit, it is not by choice that we aren't using the spark timing capability; the spark timing map in the FJR ECU is not accessible, therefore can't be adjusted by a PCIII. In other motorcycles and other applications the PCIII can adjust spark timing maps.

 

[Phugedaboudet]

Someone needs to Photoshop this up for a FJR with a big ol' bright colored NOS bottle strapped to the empty muffler mount!

whoops, lost the quote of the guy talking a NOS setup on a FJ

 

[Karmak]

I actually had one of the first FJ1200s in '86 and did some mods on that. I have been looking at my current '87 with an evil eye. One thing they need right off the bat is a beefier clutch and that will get the front off the ground when you whack it. I do have a Dial-a-jet and headers on the '87. The FJ's engine is so accessible it is always tempting to fiddle with it. The problem is my son has taken a liking to it. I absolutely love the sound of the Supertrapp headers, a beautiful howl when you come on the pipe.

you do know one of the easy mods re: the clutch is to add an fjr clutch spring? don't even have to drain the oil if you do it right. just put it on the side stand, and you get enough lean that it's fine the way it is.

fj's (and fjr's) are known for their torque, but you gotta love that surge at about 6800 rpm. kookaloo!

dean

cincinnati

Didn't know that-but do now!!! Thanks!

 

[Karmak]

I thought about using a my power commander with a nitrous set up. Now that they have a 2 position, 2 map switch. You can have the switch arm the nitrous system and go to the fuel rich and timing retarded map. The only thing holding me back is money, $500 bucks seems like it would be better spent on a nice comfy saddle , but if money was no object I would mount the bottle right were my left exhaust can is MIA and quell the rice boys wanting to race without even movin

jdeez1-The DynoTune one-bottle set-up is only $200.00. I got the twin bottle but upgraded to 20oz bottles and also pressure gauges and it ran $365.00 or so-without the larger bottles and gauges it rund $300.00. Pretty affordable. Pop DynoTune into your browser and you'll find their website.

 

[ctfjr]

Rod that bitch to the Max!

I nominate this for quote of the week.

Amen!

 

[yamaholic]

Sounds like a fun project. The bike is now 6 years old in America, and seems to me your're the first to do this. So way cool... :clapping:

The instructions say not to advance the timing. That's kind of a duh statement. I think what other folks are asking is if you have to retard the timing. One would think that would not be a bad idea to start retarded (just a guess maybe 2 degrees), then advance towards stock while dyno tuning for optimal power, or driveability, or whatever you are looking for.

Given the forged and ceramic coating internals on this engine, me thinks if you're careful with tuning, the motor will be fine. Gears are super tough on japanese bikes. The driveshaft/pumpkin is very stout as well. Aside from tire wear, I think you'll be fine. Obviously you don't expect to turn 6 digits on the odo.

Just a thought but have you considered trying methanol or water injection to aid with detonation control? That may allow you to run higher flow NOS nozzles, or perhaps a two stage setup while keeping combustion temps under control. Another thought...why not use an RPM window activator with off/on switch rather than a "button"? Seems safer (no accidental discharge) and perhaps less to think about in the "moment of glory". You can also buy two stage activators to light off a smaller nozzle, then a larger one at higher rpms. But I'm sure you know all this. Just asking.

Very excited to hear of your results!!!

 

[dean]

Someone needs to Photoshop this up for a FJR with a big ol' bright colored NOS bottle strapped to the empty muffler mount!

whoops, lost the quote of the guy talking a NOS setup on a FJ

airbrushing not required. jon jarosz did it, and a crapload more, to his fj. won lots of awards at bike shows.

click here, go to page 8, scroll down to the bottom; 1st one on right shows the nos

( :

dean

cincinnati

 

[Wicked Webby]

Karmak,

I think you misunderstood what I stated.. When spraying with NOS you would use a PWC with an ignition module to retard/reduce your timing to prevent pre-detonation and possible engine damage(not advancing). This allows you to use NOS and still have general day to day ride-ability of the motorcycle without having to constantly tune it. I understand your idea of tuning your FJR with NOS and fatting up the fuel excessively to help prevent any damage. If.... you can tune in enough fuel W/NOS to prevent a meltdown(tough learning curve here if your ever get too lean). Tuned this rich, with the NOS, do you think your bike will have any real practical rideability... except for wide open throttle when on the NOS button(they usually get wired to the horn button) ?? I am a big fan of the techlusion tuner....If your really going to attempt this, I suggest you mount the techlusion on the triple tree... Because when the NOS is gone.(which doesn't) take long , a matter of seconds, not minutes of bottle time you know(even with 2 bottles), you will want to lean the mixture up so the bike will run correctly(without blow-by). If you run her too rich for too long you will glaze the inner cylinder walls, loose compression and have a oil pan full of raw gas(blow-by). Remember, this is the better case scenario compared to too lean and melting the engine down. I would not try to amateur tune(via product instructions) my $12,000+ FJR with NOS at all, especially without time retardation, but to each his own. The excessive fuel idea of tuning with NOS leads to too many problems. I suggest you get all the facts and talk to a person with NOS tuning experience and not just a representative selling you a couple NOS bottles.

If you can get it right...I hope you can!!! I don't think you will be happy with it... Here is my experience with a friends 2004 R1 with NOS.

Pete had it custom tuned with the timing reduced using a PWC and the ignition module. Without the NOS his base map gave him a little less HP because of the timing reduction so he could have day to day ride-ability of the bike without having to over fat the fuel. Off the bottle, he was putting down 139HP at the tire on the dyno. ON the NOS, he was putting down 191HP at the tire on the dyno. Pete spent around $400 for a high end NOS kit, $400 for the PWC, $200 for the ignition module and $500 in custom expert tuning. As you know, you don't want to hit the NOS in 1st or 2nd on a R1(flip factor). He could not hit the button(was installed not to allow you to) in 6th because of the chance of damaging his top gear. So this left him with 3rd, 4th and 5th gears to play with it. Which was OK because after a handful of 2-3 second hits his bottle was empty and he was disappointed again. Pete was always filling bottles. Pete was always disappointed when they were empty.. He said he felt like a NOS junky!! He tuned his R1 like this, spent all the money($1500), in a attempt to beat up on my stock 06 ZX10R. On the NOS in 3rd gear.. I would walk away from him because he would still wheelie... On the NOS in 4th and 5th gear... He would pull 3-5 bike lengths, until I would pace him till top gear, BUT when we shifted to 6th... I would dust him because and run away from him because he was off the NOS. I **** you not.... Within 2-5 minutes of "performance riding" he would always have a empty bottle.. Pete was always pissed!!

Just my .02

WW

 

[Karmak]

Sounds like a fun project. The bike is now 6 years old in America, and seems to me your're the first to do this. So way cool... :clapping:

The instructions say not to advance the timing. That's kind of a duh statement. I think what other folks are asking is if you have to retard the timing. One would think that would not be a bad idea to start retarded (just a guess maybe 2 degrees), then advance towards stock while dyno tuning for optimal power, or driveability, or whatever you are looking for.

Given the forged and ceramic coating internals on this engine, me thinks if you're careful with tuning, the motor will be fine. Gears are super tough on japanese bikes. The driveshaft/pumpkin is very stout as well. Aside from tire wear, I think you'll be fine. Obviously you don't expect to turn 6 digits on the odo.

Just a thought but have you considered trying methanol or water injection to aid with detonation control? That may allow you to run higher flow NOS nozzles, or perhaps a two stage setup while keeping combustion temps under control. Another thought...why not use an RPM window activator with off/on switch rather than a "button"? Seems safer (no accidental discharge) and perhaps less to think about in the "moment of glory". You can also buy two stage activators to light off a smaller nozzle, then a larger one at higher rpms. But I'm sure you know all this. Just asking.

Very excited to hear of your results!!!

Everything I'm getting to this point does not want the timing advanced or retarded. Keep in mind that this will not be a significantly large jump.

Also, this set-up is going through the airbox as a "fogger." My previous set-ups involved nozzles tapped into the intake manifolds along with fuel lines, additional fuel pump, etc. I figure there will also be a degree of waste that won't make it to the intakes, so if I use a set-up that claims a 40 hp boost, I'll probably get 20-30, more realistically. I do have a buddy that will be "shadowing" me that has extensive nitrous experience and a dyno. He's been building competitive engines for over 30 years (has a big market now for boosting snowmobile engines) so will make sure I don't blow things up.

Thanks for the info! I won't risk the FJR, but will be messing with something a lot more substantial with my FJ soon.