North to Alaska 2019 - The Trip Report

[bigjohnsd]

Brian (Festar) Maddy and I (BigJohnSD) were scurrying like madmen finishing last minute details and preparations.

The Honey-do list is complete.

The bikes are ready - we've ridden over 2,300 miles testing since last Friday, May 31st.

Brian is happy with his 2002 V STROM 1000. It has performed quite well this week. No real issues, we had to do a bit of additional wiring to accommodate a new phone charger. Revamped the Heated Gear connection and added a direct hookup battery tender lead.

Freya, My 2014 BMW R1200GS Adv has had her 18,000-mile service performed, the wheels have been trued, and the tires balanced.

We have new tires awaiting us at our first stop and group Rendezvous point at Pterodactyls's in Helena MT.
We will change tires and perform any other maintenance tasks on Tuesday, June 11th in Helena. Riders rendezvousing at Pterodactyls include Phil & Charlene (weluvbiking), Festar, BigJohnSD, and a Facebook guy - Randy Brazie.

Wednesday, June 12th we have a short run to Eureka MT and the last night in Estados Unidos for awhile.
Looking forward to renewing old acquaintances and friendships in Eureka.


Thursday morning June 13th we cross into Canada at Roosville and head to Banff for the evening where we will be joined by our last rider, Fred Franklin (JuniorFJR).

Friday, June 14th we will enjoy Lake Louise, the Icefield Parkway, Jasper and then head on to Grand Cache AB for the night.

Pictures as our internet connections permit as we go along.

The following link to my GPS Tracker will tell you where we are and where we have been, it updates approximately every five minutes: https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php?id=1d9d05cfdaa991839d&hoursPast=0&showAll=yes

My Blog can be viewed here: https://bigjohnsnorthtoalaska2019.blogspot.com/2019/06/it-was-night-before-departure-and-all.html but is basically the same as what I will post here.

 

[philter]

Looking forward to living vicariously through your trip. Thanks, Phil

 

[JamesW]

Looking fwd to traveling with you as always, have a safe trip.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Looking forward to the adventure BigJohn!

Safe travels my friend.

~G

 

[BigBob1]

I just returned to Juneau after riding the Alcan south from Whitehorse and the construction season is in full swing. There where 6 construction zones and they were staging equipment on a few others. The longest we encountered was 40 km long.

Have a great ride.

 

[bigjohnsd]

Brian and I were up early, the bikes loaded and we were off to coffee at 0700

Two quick Espressos and we were on our way, first destination Helena MT a little over 500 miles.

Our way today saw lots of Puckerbrush and a whole lot of Montana.

Montana gets more interesting the further west you go.

We got as far as "Pterodactyl's Outpost" Monday

and rendezvoused with three of our eventual four companions; Randy Brazie, Phil Lanzarotto and Charlene Pendelton.

Our superb hosts:

Kevin

and

Annie

Oil was changed, tires were changed, Cardo packtalk Bolds were paired and Elk Burgers were consumed.

A few more tires were done this morning(Tuesday) then a quick ride over Flesher Pass to scuff in the

new rubber.



Supper tonight at a local cafe, no food **** tonight.

A beautiful end to the day - Thanks for the pictures Randy Brazie


Tomorrow (Wednesday, June 12th) we head for Eureka MT accompanied by our hosts Kevin and Annie Huddy as far as our planned lunch stop at Seeley Lake MT.

 

[Pterodactyl]

Unfortunately, Annie and I were unable to make the ride to Seeley Lake with John and company, but we had a great time hosting the crew. Charlene, Phil, Randy, Brian and John are all great guests and fine people. We ate, drank and worked together well. Each and everyone is welcome back to the Outpost in the future. We changed 8 tires while they were here and a 9th tire on Spousal Units GS after they left. One important lesson was learned; Road Smart 3 tires are banned from the Outpost. They are the Devils own seed, put on earth to confound the good, innocent and unsuspecting tire changer.

 

[bigjohnsd]

First I have to acknowledge Randy Brazie and Charlene Pendelton (Pillion Extraordinaire) for their photographic efforts.
Without them, I couldn't begin to publish this narrative with photos.

We, (Randy, Phil, Charlene, Brian and I), departed Huddy's Outpost, Helena MT on schedule at 1000 Wednesday morning June 12th.

A spirited run over Flesher Pass took us to Lincoln MT and shortly thereafter up US 83 to Seeley Lake where we lunched by the lake.

Continuing up US83 we bypassed Kalispell and Whitefish on a nice Farm to Market road and then proceeded up US 93 to the Ksanka Inn, Eureka MT.

While in Eureka Brian and I renewed our friendship with Mike and Bobbi Hedges.  Bobbi made time for us amidst a real family crisis and Mike chauffered us around and showed Phil, Charlene, and Randy some sights.

We had a great dinner along the shores of Lake Koocanusa.

That is Canada in the background


Thursday morning Randy retrieved his Passport from the post office and we crossed the border at Roosville CA about 1015 AM.

Randy is too sexy for his shorts!

It was a beautiful day, mid-70's and we were in no rush to get to Banff.

We stopped several times for a view

and once for Coffee at Valley Coffee, Fairmont Hot Springs BC

arriving at the Banff Caribou Lodge around 1500.

After a walk downtown Banff to retrieve some "Loonies" from the ATM

Brian and I found Phil and Charlene wandering about and brought them back to our hotel for a few beers and a nice supper.

While Brian and I did our laundry, Phil and Charlene joined Randy in the bar to await the arrival of our final rider, Fred Franklin.

When we arrived at the bar, Fred was there having ridden a warm 525 miles from Wenatchee WA.

After dinner, Phil and Charlene went back to the YWCA (their accommodations in Banff) while Fred, Brian Randy and I enjoyed the "Hot Pool" before retiring, sorry the beached whale pictures have all been censored.

Tomorrow morning KSU 09800 and a short jaunt to Lake Louise for coffee, then up the Icefield Parkway to Jasper and over the mountains to Grand Cache AB for Friday night.  Weather forecast for the morning is for 40% chance of showers, that means 60%  chance of no-showers.  I'm betting on the come!

 

[bigjohnsd]

Quick update. Arrived in Grand Cache AB at 1700 in a drenching Thunderstorm. Fred Franklin, Brian Maddy, Phil & Charlene and I are all that remain

Randy Brazie left the group today to continue South West towards Vancouver. About 1600 he hit a forest rat totaling his '14 GS and Bambi. He has posted details on Facebook for those that know and friend him. When I spoke with him this evening he said he is fine, his gear and his Helite Vest did their jobs. He will likely fly home to California from Valmonte BC or wherever he can get an airplane to Reno from. More after our long day to Dawson Creek and up the ALCAN to Fort Nelson BC tomorrow.

 

[Panman]

You will be find a good long stretch of gravel, we had been following a Tanker Rabbit at about 110 or 115 KM. Once we cleared the flagmen he was right back to it, best I could do was about a 100, it was like riding in Braille because of the dust. Interesting to say the least, we caught him at Toad City parked having a bite.

 

[bigjohnsd]

https://https://bigjohnsnorthtoalaska2019.blogspot.com/2019/06/banff-to-whitehorse-1376-miles-through.html

Whitehorse tonight, haven't run across FJRobb but we just heard sirens go by.

Sorry for the late update, Internet has sucked.

 

[bigjohnsd]

Leaving Whitehorse in the morning from Java Coffee House about 0900

 

[Canadian FJR]

We are also in Whitehorse staying with friends.

We'll be rolling out a tad bit later than 9:00 but will see you in Dawson by supper.

Safe travels

Canadian FJR

 

[juniorfjr]

John, Brian and I rode up to Deadhorse on Sunday. We got to Coldfoot camp about 230 PM and it was sunny and beautiful. So we pressed on. Soon after we crossed igun pass the weather took a turn. Rain, cold, wind. We slogged on to Deadhorse, arrived about 10 PM. Found a "room" and went to bed.next day was better. Gas and return. Stayed in Wiseman and fed the mosquitoes. Now in Fairbanks, fixing and cleaning. Heading to Denali in the morning. Fantastic

 

[bigjohnsd]

To expand upon what Fred said above:

I'm remiss in keeping this up to date so a few hours should bring us back to currency.

We left Whitehorse the morning of Wednesday, June 19th. A good days run to Dawson City was impeded only by a flat tire going across a wooden bridge construction project 40 miles North of Whitehorse. It took less than 30 minutes for me to locate, identify and plug the hole.

We arrived in Dawson City YT in the early afternoon. Supper was in the Eldorado Hotel and with our Canadian FJR Friends and a few ADVRider buddies I had arranged rooms at the Eldorado for.a late bedtime after a great "parking Lot Social".

Thursday morning Brian Maddy and I discovered a great spot for Coffee/Breakfast - a cute little French Canadian girl was the early morning Barista and we enjoyed breakfast and coffee the for the next three days.

We "Steamed Independently" Thursday afternoon, signing up for the D2D events and then exploring Dawson City. I went to several of the museums and then took a ride on the Princess up and down the Yukon River with Phil and Charlene.

Thursday evening we ate at the Tripple J hotel before attending the "Early Show" at "Diamond Tooth Gerties" Gambling Hall and Saloon.

Friday we had a late start, after coffee at the aforementioned Bistro we signed up for the D2D poker Run, a 60-70 mile jaunt through the Dawson City Mining District West of Dawson City on dirt and gravel roads. I was in the running for the first two cards, drawing two Aces, but couldn't find any love after that, Brian had three 10's but the winner had Four 6's.

The D2D dinner was excellent, lots of SWAG was given away as door prizes, I won a Sheepskin seat cover from Alaskan Leather.

After the dinner, we all participated in observing the "Biker Games" consisting of a slow race, a slalom, Blind Race, Baloon Toss and the famous or infamous "Weenie Bite"

At Midnight the "Group Photo" was taken

Saturday morning we slept until 0700. Brian, Fred and I went for Coffee one last time but alas our cute little French Canadian girl had been replaced by the Bossy Barrista.

We left Dawson City by Ferry at 0900. Motorcycles have "Head-of-the-line" privileges and we drove right onto the Ferry passing a line of 100 Cars, trucks and RVs all waiting to go to Alaska via the Top of the World Highway.

The TOTW was beautiful, they kind border agent let Brian Maddy back into the United States with a minimum of fuss. Next stop was Chicken Alaska where we enjoyed a coffee prepared by Mary, a local Barista from Common Grounds Coffee Shop in Spearfish who has worked in Chicken AK for the past few summers.

After coffee with Mary, it was a quick but frequently dusty run to Tok AK where we enjoyed our lunch at "Fast Eddy's" it seemed like only a few minutes we were at Delta Junction, the end of the Alaska Highway and then in Fairbanks. We had a great Cuban Dinner in Fairbanks followed by a "Fire Alarm" at the hotel which emptied the rooms into the parking lot.

Sunday Morning Brian, Fred and I enjoyed our Buffet Breakfast the next morning courtesy of Hotels.com, a $59 value!

At 0900 Brian, Fred and I set out for Deadhorse up the Dalton Highway - 500 miles of sketchy road, our destination was Coldfoot AK the halfway point and last fuel stop 245 miles from Deadhorse.

We made great time to Coldfoot and after our late lunch, 1400, great weather, and a 0200 sunset we decided to press on to Deadhorse.

The hour and a half ride to the Atigun Pass was wonderful, the pass was clear, but as we began our descent the temperature dropped, the North Brooks Range Arctic Wind began to blow, it was foggy and rainy and the road turned to slop. We arrived in Deadhorse just after 2200 (10:00PM) a long and treacherous six-hour run. Thankfully, Justin at the Deadhorse Camp found rooms for us and even cut us a deal becau8se we arrived so late.

Monday morning, after a Deadhorse Camp Buffett Breakfast - $15.99. and fuel at $5.59 per gallon, we set forth for Coldfoot about 0900 expecting the slop of the day before. The Arctic Wind had blown all night, the rain and fog were gone, and the road was hard and fast. We were in Coldfoot before 1300 (1:00pm) after a glorious day. We had booked rooms in Wiseman, just North of Coldfoot, so after fueling we went to our rooms and were all asleep by 1900 (7:00PM).

Tuesday morning we were on the road for Fairbanks by 0700. Our plan was to ride the 120 miles to the Yukon River Crossing, stop and fuel both machines and riders about 0900.

"The Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men"........three Flat Tires later, all on my bike, we arrived at the Yukon River with yet again another flat tire. Somewhere between Coldfoot and the Yukon, I picked up a little Arrow Head like Rock in the rear tire. I noticed pressure dropping and we stopped.

I quickly found the rock and pulled it, then plugged the hole. That plug held air for about 10 miles before failing.

I plugged it again, using two plugs, this lasted another 10-15 miles before failing.

We stopped in a turnout about 23 miles from the Yukon, removed the rear wheel and plug patched the tire from the inside. Three more stops to fill the tire got us to the Yukon well after noon where we fueled our bodies with Brunch, our bikes with gas, and received permission from the kind maintenance man, Justin, to attempt to fix the tire in his shop.

Sam, a rider from Louisiana gave me a tube of Rubber Cement as the stuff I had was suspect. We pulled the Wheel/Tire and re-patched with a larger patch using Sam's cement -, thankfully it held all the way to Fairbanks where we got in line at Dan's ADVCYCLEWorks,com for a new rear tire.

Dan's lot was full of motorcyclists getting tires before attempting the Dalton Highway. We were finally fixed and on the road about 2200 (10:00PM). Dan runs 24 hours a day during the season.

After a late dinner at "Denny's" we washed Dalton's grime off the bikes and our riding gear at a local carwash, $15 each to get the rough stuff off. We slept in this morning and were dressed and ready to ride to Denali NP at 1000 when I suggested we spend another night in Fairbanks. Brian and Fred both agreed, we shifted out of "Full Gear", unpacked and went to breakfast at the Alaskan Coffe Roasters. OK Coffee, Good food, a weird mix of staff and clientele.

On the way to breakfast, we discovered that the clutch on Brian's VStrom was acting out. We noticed an ever-increasing drip of clutch fluid on the ground. We filled and bled the clutch several times before determining that the Slave Cylinder was leaking badly. Fortunately, the local Suzuki Dealer had the part we needed to repair the cylinder and we enlisted Dan of ADVCYCLEWORK.COM to make the repair. This time there was no line at Dan's and after less than an hour, we were on our way.

We had a great dinner tonight at Geraldo's, an Italian place near our hotel. We leave for Denali in the morning.

Pictures later, the internet sucks here but I will edit this adding pictures and repost later when it doesn't take 30 minutes to post one picture.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Thanks for the update John!

~G

 

[bigjohnsd]

In Palmer tonight. Fred's Tiger needs a battery. As bad stuff normally happens in threes, we should be good after this. Denali was clear as a bell as we rolled fast at VStrom/GSA/Tiger nominal today.

 

[Old Michael]

Well done, John. Y'all stay safe.

 

[bigjohnsd]

Homer tonight, Whittier tomorrow and Sunday, Ferry to Valdez on Monday.

Rumor is the Condo we have at Whittier has both ocean view and good WiFi - maybe some pictures can finally be uploaded.

Charlene and her camera have been busy! JSNS