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hppants

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My good friend MikeP and I recently spent 5 days and 4 nights motorcycle camping in the Texas Hill Country. Mike rides a 2004 ST1300 and my 2005 FJR complements him nicely. We share similar riding styles and interest, which makes for a great bike trip. All told, it was just shy of 1500 miles, with about 700 of that on the big slab, about 300 of that on relatively straight rural highways, and the rest in the twisties. We had a couple of minor bike mechanical issues, which were taken in stride and handled without injury or major inconvenience. Not surprisingly, with our varied riding conditions, my fuel mileage fluctuated quite a bit on this trip, with a low of 39 mpg to a high of over 46 mpg.

Fall weather in the South can be unpredictable, so we went prepared for just about anything. Thankfully, we were blessed with lows from around 40 to 55ish, and highs from about 65 to 80ish. Skies were cloudy in the morning, giving way to full sunshine in the afternoon, and beautiful star viewing at night. On the last evening, we got what amounted to about 15 minutes of moderate rain, and otherwise we stayed perfectly dry. Every day and night, the wind howled at gust up to at least 25 mph. But for mid-November, I’ll take it.

MikeP has a habit of saying “Not Bad” when asked his opinion. A man of high standards and relatively few words, when I first met him, I didn’t know what Mike was actually thinking. I now realize that “Not Bad” really means “Real Good”.

The Texas Hill Country is a great place to ride, but adventurers should understand a few limitations. First, the scenery and land is beautiful, but the public can only get to a very small portion of it. The vast majority of the land in Hill Country is private ranches. The few State Parks that exist are often crowded by people from Austin and San Antonio looking for a respite. The roads are well maintained, and are somewhat twisty, but if you are looking for a Dragon competitor, you’ll be disappointed. This ride is best done a little slower, so you can enjoy the scenery more. Also, getting there is a PITA – expect no less than 300 miles (and likely more) of flat boring slab – but it is worth it once you get there. Finally, there’s a 4-letter word in Hill Country… DEER - and plenty of them! I would not ride those roads at night, and we took our time each morning before venturing out.

As is usually the case, I found adventure. Hope you enjoy the pictures.

Day 1 – Thursday

Meeting time was set for 6:30 am about 15 miles from my house, so I packed the night before and leave just after first light. My big girl is ready for the task.

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Right on time, we are heading West on the big concrete cruising about 75ish. The morning was uneventful, but after lunch, just before San Antonio, we turn Northwest off the slab, where we discovered this.

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Mike picked up a nail in his back tire. No biggie – we coasted 200 yards to a gas station and in about 10 minutes, we had the tire plugged up. However, while airing up the tire, the valve stem broke – uh San Antonio… we have a problem. So we begged and borrowed a few tools and while Mike was taking the wheel down….

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…I put the smart phone to use and found these great people about 5 miles away from us.

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Who knew the FJR was a Sport Touring UTILITY Vehicle?

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An hour later, with the tire patch-plugged, we are on our way again. Delayed, but not deterred, we pressed into the hill country late in the afternoon. Knowing that the forest rats will be wandering soon, we decided to just pick something up and eat it after camp is set up.

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Tonight and tomorrow night, we are staying at Lost Maples State Park.

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The campground is small, but well maintained and the park is beautiful.

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With 500 miles on my arse and a flat tire, I put the camera up and started drinking. After 5-7 ounces of tequila, there was no pain. We hit the sack to a very windy evening.

Day 2 – Friday.

After a breakfast of bagels, canned fruit, and coffee, we decided to do some hiking.

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We chose the East Loop (about 5 miles) and within minutes, the views are getting real nice.

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Momma red tailed hawk has been working on this nest for quite a few years.

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For central Texas, there’s plenty of color in the hill valleys.

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This serene pond is protected from the fierce winds that morning.

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Hang on Mike, I’m coming!!

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On top of the hill, the sky is cloudy, but the view is still nice.

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Mike’s signature pose…

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… and mine.

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Nothing like a little horse food on the trail.

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I think this is “planking”? I dunno – you yunguns will have to educate me…

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For some reason, on the other side of the hill, the color is not as vivid.

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What do you think Mike? “Not Bad.”

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On the valley, we stumble across this area where time has worn the dirt.

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Neat Place

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By now the real world is a million miles away. I am in my zen.

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I believe this is called the Prickly Pear Cactus

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Still continuing further, we walk among the tall brown grass.

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This is called Monkey Rock

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What a great hike.

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Back at the campground, we are now getting pretty hungry. So we gear up and head to the town of

Leakey, Tx. The road to there is real nice.

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Here’s what $6.00 will get you in this 1-horse town.

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Then it’s back on the roller coaster for some sight seeing.

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Beautiful Country

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Good riding in the Camp Wood area of the Hill Country

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After a nice long afternoon ride, the sun is starting to set. So we stopped at a small grocery store to pick up some much needed supplies.

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Burgers on bagels cooked over the open fire. Not bad!

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And of course it’s happy hour!

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We enjoyed the stars and camp fire until around 10, and called it a night.

Day 3 – Saturday

Again, the wind is howling this morning, and the skies are cloudy. We checked in with the Ranger Station hoping that someone cancelled a camping reservation. With no such luck, we packed up and headed out with no particular place to go.

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We stopped at this unknown creek, where the cypress trees are really colorful.

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Neat place to sit down and reflect.

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How about now, Mike – whatcha think? “Not Bad”.

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Now we are riding the farm roads, ranch roads, and all kinds of roads – just free styling the back country.

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Then we stumbled upon this place

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This abandoned railway tunnel now serves as a day home for a Mexican variety of bat from the late Spring to the early Fall. Spectators gather at dusk to watch them leave for the night’s hunt. Sadly, at this time, they have flown South for their winter. Still, the place was kind of cool.

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The old railway makes for a nice trail.

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Now back on the roads, I’ve got some classic country music coming through my ear buds and I’m having a ball. Very soon, we pull into the famous Lucenbach, Tx, another rite of passage for any biker.

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As more of a Pirate hangout, we passed on staying and pressed on. Now, it’s lunch time, so we rolled around Fredricksberg and settled here…

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… for a little Texas BBQ

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The waitress forgot to bring me my peach cobbler, but somehow, I managed. After lunch, we get back on the 4-digit farm roads way less traveled.

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Hit me with it Mike – “Not Bad”.

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You guys need to stay on that side of the fence, OK?

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We decide to ride to the Enchanted Rock Natural Area. I know it’s somewhere around here but I’m in no hurry.

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Ah yes… there it is.

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The Enchanted Rock is a large piece of Bedrock Granite approximately 1 mile across and 600 feet high. During warm days and cool evenings, the thermo expansion/contraction sometimes makes the rock “crack”. The indigenous people thought it had magical powers.

What are those colorful things that look like ants on the top?

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Hmmm….

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The hike is steep, but enjoyable and very scenic.

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And as expected, the summit did not disappoint.

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Back at the bottom, I geared up a tad quicker and taxied to the park exit before Mike. Turns out, his battery wouldn’t start the bike, and he had to get a push start from some bystanders. I missed the whole thing – no harm, no foul.

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As we exited the park, realizing that we had no place to stay for the night, we asked a volunteer. He suggested this place about 10 miles away.

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It was a tad pricey ($15.00 per person per night), but the place was nice and quiet and we had it basically to ourselves. After all, beggars can’t be choosy.

With our tents pitched, we rode 9 miles into Llano, Tx for some supplies.

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Then it was back home for some camp cooking.

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Damn good meal, if I don’t say so myself.

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Washed it down with 5-6 ounces of fermented Agave and we called it a night.

I am living like a King.

 
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Day 4 – Sunday

I woke up early and broke my tent and took a shower. I then stoked the fire and took some fantastic sunrise pictures.

Red sky at dawn…. Sailor be warned….

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Mike soon got up and after breakfast, we hit the twisties again. Now we are heading generally East toward Austin.

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We stopped at this Llano River crossing to mess around.

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I decided to hop rocks up the river and explore a while.

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While Mike plays scientist (in real life, he is a micro-biologist).

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What a great trip.

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Not much later, we run into the town of Marble Falls, TX. I couldn’t find any waterfalls, but I did like this bluff overlooking the Colorado River.

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How ‘bout you Mike – where ‘ya at on this trip? “Not too bad”.

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The FJR is a fantastic motorcycle.

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Now heading South, we stop along the way looking for potential camping spots. Nothing available here, but it’s a nice place.

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We run through the outskirts of Austin (very busy) and continue South to Dripping Springs, Tx. where we have lunch.

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This is a MEDIUM! Good thing we didn’t get the large.

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With our “doggie box”, we geared up and continued Southeast. Many of these roads have no fences for the livestock.

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Mike – we can’t be lost if we don’t know where we are going.

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Riding past Canyon Lake, Tx.

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Then we hit the River Road on the Guadalupe River. What a fantastic ride – the color was stupendous.

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Looking good Sir!

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And from there, we slabbed it to Bastrop State Park in the city of Bastrop, Tx. It was a little noisy from the freeway just adjacent to the park, but we managed. The weather held until we pitched our tents, and then we got a 15 minute shower on the way to the grocery.

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Left over pizza and a salad.

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Once the front passed, the temperature dropped quickly.

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We nipped on the tequila a while and called it a night.

Day 5- Monday.

Today we have to go home. I wish I could put it off a week.

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Instead of fixing breakfast, we rode the historical district of Bastrop...

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… and ate here.

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Really cool place – especially if you like Coca-Cola memorabilia.

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Pretty good for $5 bucks!

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Now heading due East in the direction of home, we are riding in bigger chunks as we have nearly 400 miles to get home. We stop at the Washington on the Brazos State Park and Historical Area.

https://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/washington-on-the-brazos

Apparently, this is the Birthplace of Texas. They have a working educational farm there. Big pets too.

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A couple hours later, we stopped at Sour Lake, Tx for some lunch.

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We found out that its namesake comes from some oil drillers that hit some gas infused water instead, which made it smell sour. We ate lunch here – sorry, no food porn but it was pretty good tex mex.

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That was the last picture I took. From lunch, we hit the big slab going East and ripped it home to Lafayette, LA.

What can I say? I’m living my dreams. I can’t help but feel that the time is now, and I can’t wait to find out what’s around the next curve. Until then, what did Pants think about his Hill Country adventure?

Not Bad.

 
Great report and pics.... thanks for sharing. I just put the FJR in storage for the winter season last week and already I am just impatient for winter to be over with.

 
Wow...you are becoming one of my favorite RR writers....thanks for sharing! :clapping:

I feel like I got a taste of that area just by following along.

 
I'm sitting at my desk at school during my lunch, and enjoying all this. With 9 days off (glory to God!!) starting tonight, I need to do a ride somewhere. I think your report gave me that "itch" again. My FJR looks just like yours, with one exception. It's sitting in the school parking lot waiting for 2 pm. Thanks to your report, this is going to be a very long day...

Gary

darksider #44

 
Good report n pics! U guys did well on your camping grub, always had the cheese workn :) Hope to get to ride Texas sometime.

 
Most excellent Pants! I just luv the Texas Hill Country and your report certainly did it justice, Texas style! :yahoo: Now I'm itchin' to get back there even worse than I wuz before reading your report. Damn you! :p

 
Excellent stuff! I am glad you guys had a good, safe ride. I especially like the fact that this RR covered an area that does not get alot of attention. This is the first RR I have read on this area but I have been wanting to get over there for a long time. I am pleased to see that you guys did not starve while out in the hills. Please tell Mike I said "hello".

BTW, it did not escape me that it was that damned blue Honda ST that kept having issues.

 
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