Note to self: Double check those saddlebags! (DOH!)

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Don't know the dril size, but I remember he said he drilled from the inside with the rear tire removed. Get the pins and use as a guide for bit size selection.
Drill from the outside, bag mounted and firmly in place. Use 3/8" bit, and 5/16"pins. This is how I did it a year and a half ago. A little angle is fine. Center on the rubber pad mount, and have at it-easy to do, and the slightly smaller diameter pin makes for easy install/removal.

 
where do you get the pins? and how long are they? Nice idea :clapping: :clapping:
Most any hardware store, go to a marine supply store for stainless, though standards are zinc plated and rust resistant. Length is most often determined by diameter, or original purpose if application is unique, 3" is all thats needed.

wrlckart1-2.gif


 
@radman - awesome! - thanks for the tip! I love the KISS method, and this qualifies. Shoulda thunk of this myself, but I didn't realize how prone the bags are to "launch".

 
I think what happened was that when I re-closed the case the last time, the locking tab did not engage the handle the way it is supposed to. Taking a quick look at it, the handle looked like it was in the down position, but it wasn't locked there. After a series of bumps, it must have opened up enough to where a good bump dislodged it from the bike. SO.... note to self (and anyone else that wants to avoid this costly humiliation :angry2: ), give a good yank on the handles of the saddlbags as one of you last "pre-flight" checklist items.
Where's Fred H. to rant & rave about how terminally flawed the design of the saddlebag attachment system is and how Yamaha ought to have designed it better and maybe you could grind something or other to make it work better because clearly it's a problem with the bike, not the rider. It must be the anchor points or something. You can half-mount (1) the bags and they just sit there and look like they're attached and then they fall off when you least expect it.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Bob

Huntington Beach, CA

Just lobbing bombs; don't mind me. :D

(1) Not half-mount them THAT way, you sick *******s. :dribble:

 
Actually, I got half-way down the thought process of re-inventing the attachment,

then saw the simple "No Bag Left Behind" pics -- 2 holes, 5 minutes and 2 hitch-pins later -- done -- no worries.

 
Actually, I think the bag attachment system is a pretty clever design, and I still think it was "pilot error" on my part for not making sure the handle (and thereby the locking tab) was secured properly. Having said that, it does tend to emphasize form over function - it *looks* good, but we have all (now) expressed some concern about how well they work. I'll go with the "belt and suspenders" option and invest in the pins. Straight from the Department of Redundancy Department, but it beats finding (or losing altogether) a saddlebag in the ditch. :unsure:

 
After 2 years & lots of two-up riding my FJR got tipped over against a square concrete curb. Lots of deep scratches on a bag & the front faring going vertically (no forward movement) when it slowly slid down against the concrete. I took the faring & bag off & down to the local body shop (The best I have ever used anywhere) & they were able to make them look like new. They perfectly matched the paint & no damage was evident when I got the faring & bag back, I think it was 5-6 days later. I don't remember the exact cost but it was less than $400 but more than $300. I never did price new parts. I just assumed the bag alone would be more than $400. Best of luck. Ron

 
Actually, the bag attachment system is about the best out there. In fact, the ease of install/removal may be why some leave their appointed place-if more difficult the routine of attachment would insure a proper mounting. The pins just guard against the possibility of loss for whatever reason. I really only use them for extended trips, where the bags are heavily loaded and, IMHO, more likely to strain the oe attachment.

 
where do you get the pins? and how long are they? Nice idea :clapping: :clapping:
Most any hardware store, go to a marine supply store for stainless, though standards are zinc plated and rust resistant. Length is most often determined by diameter, or original purpose if application is unique, 3" is all thats needed.

wrlckart1-2.gif
In this picture, what's catching the loop on the RHS? I see the LHS is going through the pin's head (G).

I just got my bike and haven't seen under the bags yet, so can't quite visualize this gadget!

 
The loop is spring steel, you just stretch it out and over the pin, it snaps into it's normal length as shown.

 
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I thought about doing that/this last year after reading the nop bag left behind, however.

The bags just do not fall off of mine! :)

Ihave pulled and tugged and the only time it moved enough to come off was if it was not latched on correctly.

 
I neglected to double check to see if the saddlebags were securely fastened to the bike.
Maybe, maybe not. You might check if your latching system is loose. Install the bag and close the latch properly. Now try to lift the bag straight up (one corner will do ie the back corner). Look to see if the rear hook comes off its slot. If it does, chances are that your latch is also moving up, allowing the movement and resulting in a bag that's not secure. :unsure:

I discovered this during a trip and used a zip tie around the latch and grab handle to keep the bag in place.

Montreal, Canada

https://pages.videotron.com/mcrides

 
Don't know the dril size, but I remember he said he drilled from the inside with the rear tire removed. Get the pins and use as a guide for bit size selection.
Drill from the outside, bag mounted and firmly in place. Use 3/8" bit, and 5/16"pins. This is how I did it a year and a half ago. A little angle is fine. Center on the rubber pad mount, and have at it-easy to do, and the slightly smaller diameter pin makes for easy install/removal.

Thanks Radman +1

 
Drill from the outside, bag mounted and firmly in place. Use 3/8" bit, and 5/16"pins. This is how I did it a year and a half ago. A little angle is fine. Center on the rubber pad mount, and have at it-easy to do, and the slightly smaller diameter pin makes for easy install/removal.
On mine, I used 1/4 x 2" pins and drilled 1/4" holes. It's a little harder to line up, but it doesn't move or rattle, as the rubber holds the pins snugly.
 
Drill from the outside, bag mounted and firmly in place. Use 3/8" bit, and 5/16"pins. This is how I did it a year and a half ago. A little angle is fine. Center on the rubber pad mount, and have at it-easy to do, and the slightly smaller diameter pin makes for easy install/removal.
On mine, I used 1/4 x 2" pins and drilled 1/4" holes. It's a little harder to line up, but it doesn't move or rattle, as the rubber holds the pins snugly.
+1 on 1/4 x 2" pins and 1/4" drill bit. $4.10 for both pins at hardware store and couple minutes of work. I like Radman only use this on long trips with loaded bags. :yahoo:

 
I thought about doing that/this last year after reading the nop bag left behind, however.
The bags just do not fall off of mine! :)

Ihave pulled and tugged and the only time it moved enough to come off was if it was not latched on correctly.
For the little time and money it takes to do this, it is well worth it for peace of mind. With the security pins in place. there could be a nuclear disaster followed up by an earthquake and a tsunami. Civilization as we know it would be destroyed.......but your bags will still be attached! B)

 
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Maaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnn

I wish I would have seen this before I left Home Depot, Oh, Wait, I rode my FJR to work, Hey Need to go on a errand.... BRB, Later (**runns off to bike**)

 
Almost lost my right side bag on the intestate without even knowing it. A while back some puncks tried to rip off one of my saddle bags and after that its never been the same.

With the pin modification I'll have one less thing to worry about. :clapping:

 
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