+1 - I always put anti-sieze on spark plug threads and lug nut/bolt threads. It just makes life that one little bit easier.
And changes torque specifications by 30%-40% because it lubes the threads.
Which would be (only partially) true if one were to actually use a torque wrench for spark plugs threaded in an aluminum head. It is also probably within the the (non)calibration gauge R&R error range of most of our home mechanic, DIY torque wrenches. Did you get yours calibrated recently? Me neither.
I say partially because, when was the last time you pulled a spark plug and the threads were pristinely clean? Generally there will be some film of motor oil or other spooge on those threads already. So you can't really use the "dry thread" torque value as a baseline anyway. Not to worry... the engineers should have already taken that little tidbit into consideration when developing the service torque specs. Well, all of them except the Yamaha motorcycle engineers who spec ridiculous drain plug torque values. :blink:
I do not routinely use a torque wrench on spark plugs (or drain plugs, or many other relatively
low torque fittings in alloy holes), as it is a great way to pull out the threads due to over torquing (even without anti-sieze). Some things require a torque wrench. Spark plugs and drain plugs just ain't one of them.
FWIW - you only put anti-seize on the
threads of wheel lug bolts, not the seating surfaces. In many (most?) cases, this is called for in the appropriate FSMs.
The only time I ever used anto-seize on plugs they backed out. Never used it since, never had an issue with removal. I wouldn't even consider it on lug nuts!!!
I don't know what you did, but you did it wrong. Been using antisieze on items previously mentioned for decades with never a problem. And as I said, you only put it on the threads. Not the seating surfaces.
Hmmm... I wonder if the "anti-seize" tangent is enough to push this into NEPRT...
