Ohlins spring rates for 210 pound rider

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becoyote

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Any in that weight range care to share a spring rate that works for them.

The spring thar ohlins NA set me up with seems really

, really stiff. No pre_load and the damping backed off.

 
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Back when I weighed about 210 GP Suspension recommended a 750-800 lb spring but I have ridden bikes with a Penske shock and a 850 lb spring that had very plush rides. I also rode a Penske with a 800 lb spring that had a extremely rough ride as did my Wilbers shock when I upgraded from a 650 to a 800 lb spring. Your problem probably is not the spring, its excess compression damping in the shock...which seems to be very common in Ohlins shocks since one (damping) size fits all.

 
That could be the issue. SAG seems correct, but man is it stiff. I put the stocker back on yesterday. Going to do a comparison ride tomorrow.

 
Following. I don't have an ohlins, but my G3 has been making small bumps feel jarring. Don't know what the change is, rubber or wear.

 
Currently I'm about 20 pounds lighter than you. I was going to suggest an 850 lb spring as that's what my Penske equipped '15 has. Sounds like you're there already.

FWIW, with trunk and lightly loaded bags, my '15 has a very nice ride.

--G

 
Any in that weight range care to share a spring rate that works for them.
The spring thar ohlins NA set me up with seems really

, really stiff. No pre_load and the damping backed off.
so the shock is unwound, compression and rebound ?? and No preload but sag seems right ??

preload sets sag. what is the sag set to if thats what you adjusted ??

is this a new shock, or just a spring ?? what adjustments have been made ??

 
When I set up the shock last year I had the sag set to between 25 and 30% I didn't save the numbers but remember getting it within specs along with new fork springs

The rebound and compression setting are both all the way counter clockwise which decreases damping.

The shock is a YA 036. Manual pre-load but has both comp. and rebound adjustments.

I am not enough of an expert to know exactly how it should feel but I have had Beemers with ohlins and the last FJR I bought came with a Penske shock and Traxxion ak20 cartridge kit.

The rear of that FJR was more plush and I liked it better. I don't remember which spring it had but I was way heavier at the time and travelled two up much more.

 
I'm not that familiar with Ohlins, but here's where I would start.

Add 1-2mm of preload back into the spring. Next and I'm just throwing out numbers here, set rebound dampening to something like 50-60% of full hard. In other words, if you have 20 clicks total adjustment, then set rebound at 8 clicks from full hard. Lastly, set compression at 10-20% of full soft. Using the above example, set comp at 16 clicks out from full hard.

If the ride improves, great, go another click or two from above settings and experiment...you can't break it. Just my $.02!

--G

 
I have the shock off the bike now and am considering selling it.

If I put it back on, I will give those settings a shot

 
Spring requirement doesn't vary with shock manufacturer. All of the shocks made, OEM, or any aftermarket, all have to deal with the same suspension link geometry, bike weight, added load, etc. That's a red herring.

The spring rate will determine what range of the shock's travel the suspension will go through with a given amount of bump input, for a given amount of dead weight (that's your bike weight, you and any passenger load plus luggage) assuming perfect damping.

Now comes the big conundrum: How much shock travel do YOU want? That will depend on what your riding habits and your goals are, and not subject to some fancy formula that they have determined at XYZ racing shock seller company. And a lot of people don't quite understand what they want, which surely complicates the whole thing.

Truly race performance oriented riders will want to restrict their suspension articulation, because that also restricts the variation of steering angles and other badness, and will result in more predictable performance on a relatively smooth surface. When you get a race bike really dialed in, it is surely a thing of joy within the expected undulations of a race track. Unfortunately for most of us, our streets are nothing like race tracks.

In the extreme opposite situation, riders who ride off-road (or the roads they call paved around here) NEED far more compliance from their suspension to keep them from careening off-piste at even moderately aggressive speeds, and so you see, the target is a widely moving one.

The perfect spring rate can easily be determined if...

You know how fast, how rough the road, how much load, and how much you want the suspension to deflect.

See... it's easy. That's why everybody is doing it.

 
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I think I may go down one spring rate. Most of my riding is flat straight highway to get to camp the twisty mountain roads which are not always in great shape. The harshness takes away some of my confidence.

Thanks!

 
I think I may go down one spring rate. Most of my riding is flat straight highway to get to camp the twisty mountain roads which are not always in great shape. The harshness takes away some of my confidence.
Thanks!
From what you described, you will probably have to go down to a 750 lb spring to achieve a notable improvement. If that spring rate turns out to be a little "light" for some riding conditions, its easy to add some compression damping to compensate.

 
Talked to ohlinsomeone yesterday. They are going to do spring swap free of charge even though I have owned the shock about a year. Good customer service from them.

 
See if Ohlins will let you add remote pre-load to the shock. I thought mine was stiff also, at first. I run with NO pre-load around town, but dial it up for pillion and dial it up more for a weekend of gear. Works great and has good adjustment range. Worth the extra $ IMO.

 
Might not be a bad idea if I keep it long enough for a rebuild. It currently has less than 1k on it.

I just sent the spring in for the swap.

I also bought the pens ke type collar for it so I don't need the spanner for preload. Just the straight rod.

Much easier than the spanner.

Might not be a bad idea if I keep it long enough for a rebuild. It currently has less than 1k on it.

I just sent the spring in for the swap.

I also bought the pens ke type collar for it so I don't need the spanner for preload. Just the straight rod.

Much easier than the spanner.

 
Shock is back on the bike. One step down in spring rate.

I'm pretty happy with it. Still plenty firm but not a hard tail.

 
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