Oil change - how tight do you tighten the bolt at the bottom?

[Wannabe_4x4]

So I'm changing my own oil since the "stealership" is basically screwing me on labor.

When I put the bolt back in on the bottom, do you tighten it with a torque wrench? what lbs.?

Or is it more of a tighten it hand tight first, then turn 1/16 of a turn tight? 1/8th turn tight?

or ????

I've been told that the bolt doesn't need a whole lot of tightening. After a good long ride, the heat of the engine will take up the slack. True?

Same question about the oil filter. Hand tight first, then ??? 1/8 turn tighter? 1/16th turn?

 

[Tree Doc]

31 ft lbs on the drain bolt

12 ft lbs on the oil filter

Both figures from the manual.

Personally, I'd go close to that on the drain bolt but on all my bikes, for the oil filter, I generally go for hand tight, then about another quarter turn all being done on a clean mating surface with a well oiled o-ring on the new filter. I've never checked what that ends up being on a torque wrench as sometimes I might run a K&N Oil Filter with a 17mm fitting and sometimes I run a good Wix filter with no wrench fitting.

 

[El Cajone]

So I'm changing my own oil since the "stealership" is basically screwing me on labor.
When I put the bolt back in on the bottom, do you tighten it with a torque wrench? what lbs.?

Or is it more of a tighten it hand tight first, then turn 1/16 of a turn tight? 1/8th turn tight?

or ????

I've been told that the bolt doesn't need a whole lot of tightening. After a good long ride, the heat of the engine will take up the slack. True?

Same question about the oil filter. Hand tight first, then ??? 1/8 turn tighter? 1/16th turn?

I don't "torque" the drain bolt anymore. I make it snug then just a bit extra with a wrench or, if I'm using a new washer, unitil I feel it crush.

Don't use a wrench to tighten the oil filter or you'll have all kinds of problems getting it off. I just tighten it as much as I can by hand and leave it. As long as you put a bead of oil around the sealing ring on the new filter, it won't leak and come the next oil change, it will come off without you having to declare war on it.

 

[wfooshee]

Never done an oil change before? On anything?

It's no different than any other vehicle you've ever seen. When the wrench stops on the drain bolt, it's tight. You know when a bolt is tight, what do you need us for?!!? 31 ft-lb is the spec, but that's just plain stupid. Several here have stripped the threads in the pan shooting for that. Not good. As for the filter, apply oil to the gasket and install the filter. When the filter stops turning in your hand, give it another push just to snug it up. Too tight and you'll you'll have a hell of a time getting it off for the next change. Or you'll destroy the gasket and develop an oil leak.

While you're asking, why didn't you ask about re-using the crush washer? I've had my bike almost three years now, have never replaced the washer, have never dripped a single drop out of the drain bolt.

 

[Wannabe_4x4]

31 ft lbs on the drain bolt12 ft lbs on the oil filter

Both figures from the manual.

Personally, I'd go close to that on the drain bolt but on all my bikes, for the oil filter, I generally go for hand tight, then about another quarter turn all being done on a clean mating surface with a well oiled o-ring on the new filter. I've never checked what that ends up being on a torque wrench as sometimes I might run a K&N Oil Filter with a 17mm fitting and sometimes I run a good Wix filter with no wrench fitting.

awesome! thanks. =) out of curiosity, do you replace the crush gasket everytime, or every other time, or ???

 

[Wannabe_4x4]

Never done an oil change before? On anything?
It's no different than any other vehicle you've ever seen. When the wrench stops on the drain bolt, it's tight. You know when a bolt is tight, what do you need us for?!!? 31 ft-lb is the spec, but that's just plain stupid. Several here have stripped the threads in the pan shooting for that. Not good. As for the filter, apply oil to the gasket and install the filter. When the filter stops turning in your hand, give it another push just to snug it up. Too tight and you'll you'll have a hell of a time getting it off for the next change. Or you'll destroy the gasket and develop an oil leak.

While you're asking, why didn't you ask about re-using the crush washer? I've had my bike almost three years now, have never replaced the washer, have never dripped a single drop out of the drain bolt.

OMG, easiest thing I've done in my life. I literally just got done doing the change. took all of about 3 minutes. lol. serious!

You know what's funny? When I took the oil drain bolt out, I didn't even notice the crush gasket. lol. It just looked like it was part of the bolt. Didn't try to seperate it off or anything... and re-used the one there. So I put the bolt back in and tightened it hand tight, then maybe it moved 1/32 of a turn with the wrench till it wouldn't go anymore. I didn't want to force it.

I'm not worried about leaks... it's more of a worry of stripping the bolt.

Oil filter, put some oil around the ring/rubber gasket, hand tightened it only till it wouldn't go anymore.

Turned the motor on, went around the block a couple times... no leaks! woo hoo!

 

[wfooshee]

That's probably still too tight on the filter. Don't back it off now, though, but next time, just a bit after it touches the gasket, but not till you can't move it any more.

 

[Wannabe_4x4]

That's probably still too tight on the filter. Don't back it off now, though, but next time, just a bit after it touches the gasket, but not till you can't move it any more.

cool. I'll remember for next time. Thanks! =)

I'm just amazed... 3 years and you never replaced the drain plug crush gasket with a new one? I wonder if the crush gasket is there as a "buffer" for when the mechanics at the dealer use the torque wrench to get to the 31 ft. lbs.

 

[Wee Willy]

I'm just amazed... 3 years and you never replaced the drain plug crush gasket with a new one? I wonder if the crush gasket is there as a "buffer" for when the mechanics at the dealer use the torque wrench to get to the 31 ft. lbs.

The crush washer is there to produce a better leak-proof seal between the casing face & the bolt shoulder. Under the right pressure conditions, it conforms to both surfaces for a tight seal. For oil pans, new crush washers are not mandatory...the one you have now will last through many oil changes without a leak. It IS a good idea to get close to the recommended torque value though. A quality torque wrench is a good investment if you don't already have one.

Cheers,

W2

 

[frayne]

I put a match mark on the bolt and the oil pan and re-install it so the marks match up and always use a new crush washer. Maybe a bit anal here but I have also drilled a small hole into the top of the bold and the little lip just ahead of the bolt and put a wire tie in it. Didn't take much effort and it gives me piece of mind that the bolt isn't going anywhere.

BTW, my first oil change when I used a torgue wrench I stripped the pan threads, never again.

 

[gypsy]

I torque the drain plug but only to 25lbs. (There were a number of instances where folks were stripping the threads when trying to get to 32.) Hand tighten the filter. Replace the crush washer if I remember before refilling with oil. Otherwise I tell myself I will do it the next time.

Have never had a leak since the last time I let a dealership change my oil. Then this happened.

gypsy

 

[phroenips]

I torque the drain plug but only to 25lbs. (There were a number of instances where folks were stripping the threads when trying to get to 32.) Hand tighten the filter. Replace the crush washer if I remember before refilling with oil. Otherwise I tell myself I will do it the next time.
Have never had a leak since the last time I let a dealership change my oil. Then this happened.

gypsy

:blink:

Looks like your rear tire had plenty of available traction too!

 

[tcfjr]

Since we're talking oil changes, I'll pass on an idea that Hal (kaitsdad) told me a while back: order a new rear-end drain bolt with the magnetic insert, and use it replace the stock engine oil drain bolt. When you take it out during an oil change, use some spray-on carb cleaner to remove any nasty metal bits that cling to the magnetic. Extra protection for that valuable engine.

 

[kolonial72]

When I did my first oil change on the Feej, I ended up without a crush washer. Lost it, or it wasn't there to begin with. So I put the thing back together and rode it for about 3000 miles. Not in one day mind you. Checked the bolt a bunch of times and kept a close eye on the sight glass. As far as I can tell, didn't lose a drop of oil.

Next time I changed the oil, though, I installed a new washer.

Oh, and I don't use a torque wrench. I have a calibrated arm.

 

[wheatonFJR]

Some have stripped their oil pans with the "recommended torque", so just tight enough to crush the crush washer.

After all, it is just a drain plug...just tight enough to crush the washer.

 

[na1g]

31 lb-ft on the drain plug is just plain crazy. The oil pan is just aluminum fer cryin out loud and, although there are a lot of threads, cranking a steel bolt into it at 31 ft-lbs is asking for heartache. *

There is probably no need to use a new crush washer every time. Invest the $.50 you save and in ten years you'll have maybe $1.00. Personally, I don't need the dollar so I use a new washer. *

Pick up any oil filter on the shelf of your nearby auto parts emporium and read the tightening directions. Most will say to tighten 1/2-turn +/- after the gasket touches. That's about how tight most of us can make it by hand so no further torquing should be needed. *

*In my opinion, which isn't worth much. Just ask my wife.

pete

 

[Wannabe_4x4]

I torque the drain plug but only to 25lbs. (There were a number of instances where folks were stripping the threads when trying to get to 32.) Hand tighten the filter. Replace the crush washer if I remember before refilling with oil. Otherwise I tell myself I will do it the next time.
Have never had a leak since the last time I let a dealership change my oil. Then this happened.

gypsy

That photo looks scary!!! I'm confused... you mean you let the dealer do it, just before that happened? Or was the fault at your own hand? Is it because the bolt fell out? or from stripping the oil pan because of too much torque?

 

[Wannabe_4x4]

Since we're talking oil changes, I'll pass on an idea that Hal (kaitsdad) told me a while back: order a new rear-end drain bolt with the magnetic insert, and use it replace the stock engine oil drain bolt. When you take it out during an oil change, use some spray-on carb cleaner to remove any nasty metal bits that cling to the magnetic. Extra protection for that valuable engine.

Funny you mention the magnetic drain plug. I actually have one of these on the filter itself...

https://shopfiltermag.com/

I called the #, and got them to send me one based on the diameter/circumferance of the oil filter on the FJR. It worked on my old FZ-1 as well. They do work!

 

[JimNtexas]

I recently did my first oil change, it was easier than on my Ninja 250. I found this helpful article via the Bin 'O Facts.

I used a new crush washer and torqued the drain plug to 28 foot-pounds. I used a ring style wrench to tighten the oil filter about 1/4 turn past the point where it starts to tighten.

After about 1000 miles everything looks fine, oil level unchanged and looking new.