Oil change near-mishap

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Wow, you guys can make a simple job pretty complicated. Given the amount of residual oil left in the engine, I don't see a dangerous "tipping" maneuver to get 1/3 of the residual out worth the risk.
My regimen: centerstand, drain, pop filter off with $4 pep-boys #5 cup wrench (tin foil on fairing panel), replace drain, screw on new Yamaha filter (oil o-ring slightly and get as tight as possible by hand), refill with 4 qts. (I don't even bother looking at the slight glass as an hour of riding later, it will always be right in the middle of the sight glass range). Whole process takes 15 minutes if I'm drinking a beer and goofing off. I've never had a motorcycle that is this easy to change oil.

- Mark
+100

I have yet to do my gsxr but I know for a fact it won't be as easy as the fjr.

It was definitely the easiest of any bike I have owned.

The Vstar was a nightmare, remove exhause, worry about stripping screws where the oil filter was, etc.

 
Test question: ((fill-in) A clean bike is a ___ bike.
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Your bike better be awful damn dirty, molten tire bits on the swingarm included, in Reno, Doc, or people are gonna call you on this one :lol: :lol: .
Uh oh...this could be bad.

 
Because this wouldn't be an oil change thread without it...

...the torque for the oil drain plug is ____ ?

...the torque for the filter is _____ ?

:D

 
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Because this wouldn't be an oil change thread without it...
...the torque for the oil drain plug is ____ ?

...the torque for the filter is _____ ?

:D
1) Slightly less than Maywannayamaha cinches his up.

2) Hand tight, then back it off just a taste.

 
Uh, you mean when you change the oil you have to catch it in some kind of container? How come? Everyone around here just goes to a local sandpit and opens their crankcases up; figure in a couple of years we'll have an oilsand industry just like Northern Alberta... :jester:

 
Unless you turn your bike upside down you're not going to get to the oil that resides in and around the gears case of the transmission.
There is no Gear case for the transmission, it's all part of the engine cases. And it drains to the pan. The only oil that wont drain would be the oil absorbed by the clutch basket and a minor oil film on all the wetted surfaces,
Whatever, my main point was that wherever the oil is, it's darn close to 1 quart.
Where did this information come from? It isn't in my owner manual... I don't recall seeing a sump under the transmission on my bike. :huh:

Please forgive me for dredging up this thread. B)

 
Unless you turn your bike upside down you're not going to get to the oil that resides in and around the gears case of the transmission.
There is no Gear case for the transmission, it's all part of the engine cases. And it drains to the pan. The only oil that wont drain would be the oil absorbed by the clutch basket and a minor oil film on all the wetted surfaces,
Whatever, my main point was that wherever the oil is, it's darn close to 1 quart.
Where did this information come from? It isn't in my owner manual... I don't recall seeing a sump under the transmission on my bike. :huh:

Please forgive me for dredging up this thread. B)
It comes from the service manual

"Capacities:

Engine Oil: 5.18 Qt total, 4.02 Qt without cartridge, 4.23 Qt with cartridge change"

Basically without taking the engine and/or transmission apart you will only drain out ~4.23qt with a oil/filter change but a dry factory fill it takes 5.18qt

About 1qt difference

I think that is what you were asking?

First oil change I did I was curious and measured what I got out, it was a little over 4 qts.

The 5.18 Vs 4.23 specs puzzled me.

Now I just put 4.25 back in, make sure everything is leak free and ride.

I don't care if the sight glass is full or empty I know what I put in & I know the garage floor is oil free (no leaks)

 
>>It comes from the service manual

"Capacities:

Engine Oil: 5.18 Qt total, 4.02 Qt without cartridge, 4.23 Qt with cartridge change"

I think that is what you were asking?<<

Yes, thanks. It is confirmed, then.

 
I completed my first oil change last week on my 06. I tried the strap type oil filter wrench and several other types, with no luck. I then discovered that the FJR oil filter is the same OD diameter as a Goldwing 1800. Luckily I just happen to have an oil wrench for the GL1800 (since I own a GL1800 also) Almost any Goldwing internet store sells the oil filter wrench. I have listed a couple sites here.

https://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/p...mp;ID=112672016

https://www.chromeworld.com/index.cfm?fusea...p;categoryID=84

 
Oil change....hm....damn....been six thousand miles since my last one. Better go get me some oil.

 
What's with the tin foil? Can't you just use a rag aferwards??? I mean, you're gonna go over the area with a rag anyway to get the oil from the filter- is there some other use for the foil???

 
What's with the tin foil? Can't you just use a rag aferwards??? I mean, you're gonna go over the area with a rag anyway to get the oil from the filter- is there some other use for the foil???
It keeps oil off the paint & easy cleanup.

Once you have the new filter on, pull off the foil and throw it away.

Cheaper & easier than using a rag IMO

 
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I laughed when I saw that- I'm not used to bikes with bodywork yet... but what the hell, I'll give it a try~

 
I completed my first oil change last week on my 06. I tried the strap type oil filter wrench and several other types, with no luck. I then discovered that the FJR oil filter is the same OD diameter as a Goldwing 1800. Luckily I just happen to have an oil wrench for the GL1800 (since I own a GL1800 also) Almost any Goldwing internet store sells the oil filter wrench. I have listed a couple sites here.
https://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/p...mp;ID=112672016

Same oil filter wrench I use,from my GL1800 Goldwing....... :big_boss:

 
"That also happened before I obtained the emesis basin, so I had to fight really hard the urge to puke on my shoes. Luckily, the snapped-off part came out with a long screwdriver engaging the ground prong. No tightness once the rest of the plug was no longer attached. Phew!"

I almost puked reading that. Sent a shiver thru my body (and not a good one either.) JB

 
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Wow, you guys can make a simple job pretty complicated. Given the amount of residual oil left in the engine, I don't see a dangerous "tipping" maneuver to get 1/3 of the residual out worth the risk.
My regimen: centerstand, drain, pop filter off with $4 pep-boys #5 cup wrench (tin foil on fairing panel), replace drain, screw on new Yamaha filter (oil o-ring slightly and get as tight as possible by hand), refill with 4 qts. (I don't even bother looking at the slight glass as an hour of riding later, it will always be right in the middle of the sight glass range). Whole process takes 15 minutes if I'm drinking a beer and goofing off. I've never had a motorcycle that is this easy to change oil.

- Mark


Thanks for the 4 quart(rather than 4.23 quart idea), markjenn.

This "pawtracks" description is exactly what I experience every

change:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=116949

I was thinking about trying 4 quarts, and your narrative has

validated the process. So much for following the instructions.

 
Wow, you guys can make a simple job pretty complicated. Given the amount of residual oil left in the engine, I don't see a dangerous "tipping" maneuver to get 1/3 of the residual out worth the risk.
My regimen: centerstand, drain, pop filter off with $4 pep-boys #5 cup wrench (tin foil on fairing panel), replace drain, screw on new Yamaha filter (oil o-ring slightly and get as tight as possible by hand), refill with 4 qts. (I don't even bother looking at the slight glass as an hour of riding later, it will always be right in the middle of the sight glass range). Whole process takes 15 minutes if I'm drinking a beer and goofing off. I've never had a motorcycle that is this easy to change oil.

- Mark


Thanks for the 4 quart(rather than 4.23 quart idea), markjenn.

This "pawtracks" description is exactly what I experience every

change:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=116949

I was thinking about trying 4 quarts, and your narrative has

validated the process. So much for following the instructions.


In response to the questions I, and others, have/had on the

oil refill problem where the fill level seems to grow over time,

I've contacted Yamaha for clarification.

The previous discussions here would be identified by, but not

limited to, these references:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...mp;#entry116949

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...mp;#entry116956

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...mp;#entry116993

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...mp;#entry117490

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...mp;#entry122105

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...mp;#entry723283

And this was my question to Yamaha:

Like many FJR owners, I change my own oil and filter(s). The issue seems to be oil level expansion.

Upon refill, I carefully measure a 4 quart, 8 ounce fill volume. This brings the sight glass about halfway between the minimum and maximum markings, after run-in.

However, after 5-7 hundred miles, over several weeks, I'll notice the sight glass oil level beginning to creep up to, and beyond the maximum marking.

I'm pretty sure your FJR's do not manufacture oil, and I know my oil refill is accurate.

So, can you tell me how/why this oil level creep occurs, and if we should just ignore it. Personally, when this happens, I vacate enough oil to return the measurement to the mid-point measurement seen immediately after the last change.

I, like others, really like the bike, and this is just a minor annoyance.

Thank you very much for your help.

And this is the response from Yamaha:

Thank you for your question. I have been told by our Technical Advisor that the oil may rise through the sight glass for several reasons. One reason may be condensation accumulating in the crankcase. This is most common when a vehicle is run for shorter periods of time and the condensation is not released through the crankcase breather tube. Another reason may be that fuel is getting past the rings and adding to the crankcase oil volume. Another reason that may contribute to a higher oil level may be that once oil is poured in and circulated it becomes aerated, and raises the oil level slightly. Any one, or a combination of any of these factors may be adding to your rising oil level. Thank you.

So, generally speaking, those seem to be the predominant causes of

this oil fill creep. Personally, my bike would probably be a candidate

for the "shorter periods" scenario. I'm just not sure I understand where

the sump drain is on an FJR. I've seen a tube down by the drain plug,

but assumed that was battery overflow. Of course now thinking about

it, the battery is in the cowling, so maybe that tube is for sump drain.

I certainly hope no one has fuel seepage into their oil. I never inspect

my oil drain for the smell of fuel, and I'm not sure what to do about it

if it were found.

The third cause, "Aeration of the oil", seems a possibility. But, to me,

only seems capable of making a very small difference.

As others mentioned, I guess I am just assigning to much importance

to this issue. All my other previous bikes had dipsticks for oil measure-

ment. Having this sight glass seems a never ending invitation to repeat-

edly check the oil level, which I never repeated frequently using the

dipsticks.

But, as I told the Yamaha representative, the suggestion of a 4 quart fill

("markjenn"-117490), started my sight glass empty. I found this worri-

some, even though I knew mt oil level was merely 8 ounces short.

The whole topic has now left me weary.

 
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