Oil Change Questions

[Woketman]

This has likely been answered previously, but I am either too stupid or too lazy to find it.

When you guys change your oil, what is the proper fill level? Should the oil level be in the middle of the sight glass after the bike has set such that the oil is settled? Or at the top? Or should it be in the middle an instant after shutting the engine off (before everything settles)??? Or at the top in the same case? Which of these is best for the bike?

And how do you get to what ever level is appropriate? Do you put 4 quarts in and start her up and then check and add? Or what?

Thanks. Last time I changed my oil I wondered about all of this and here I am, about to do it again. So I figured I'd try to edumicate mysaelf.....

 

[phroenips]

This has likely been answered previously, but I am either too stupid or too lazy to find it.

When you guys change your oil, what is the proper fill level? Should the oil level be in the middle of the sight glass after the bike has set such that the oil is settled? Or at the top? Or should it be in the middle an instant after shutting the engine off (before everything settles)??? Or at the top in the same case? Which of these is best for the bike?

And how do you get to what ever level is appropriate? Do you put 4 quarts in and start her up and then check and add? Or what?

Thanks. Last time I changed my oil I wondered about all of this and here I am, about to do it again. So I figured I'd try to edumicate mysaelf.....

It's in the manual and also the Bin-O-Facts:

Engine Oil: 5.18 Qt total, 4.02 Qt without cartridge, 4.23 Qt with cartridge change

Here's a hint: 4.23 quarts conveniently equals exactly four liters, and 4.02 quarts is just .02 quarts more than 1 US Gallon

 

[FJRBluesman]

Is it still Friday???

I predict NEPRT in 5, 4, 3, 2....

Been addressed ad nauseam. The gremlins that rob oil and the opposite gremlins that deposit more oil after filling leaving you overloaded beyond the sight glass.

Hint: Always wait a bit (10 minutes or so) after filling before deciding to top off more. I fill it to the max or the top dot. As long as it's in between the two dots you're fine.

I buy my oil by the gallon. Note: Bike must be on center stand and on level ground. After draining and installing the new oil filter, I dump in the entire new gallon. I then fire it up for a bit give some light throttle and kill it. I then clean up my mess, about 10 minutes or so, then I check it. I add about a cup or so (what ever it takes) wait about another 10 minutes to be assured the oil has drained back down to the sight glass, and recheck. Usually good to go at that point.

If you kill the motor and quickly look and refill, you'll have oil still in the upper part of the motor slowly making it's way back to the pan. If you fill it too soon, you risk over filling it. The issue with an over filled oil sump is that allegedly the crank pieces parts will slap the oil and froth it, which might be nice in frou-frou coffee, but not in the oil, as now you're circulating oil with lots of air in it.

Anyway long winded. Go and fill with confidence. You'll also learn after a few changes, you maybe slightly under, bummer; or over, bummer. You'll see how your bike and its oil behaves. Good luck.

 

[ionbeam]

Well, the owners manual says to fill it to between the min & max marks and supplies a picture to assist you in figuring it out. The owners manual says that at the end of an oil change to: Start the engine and let it idle for several minutes... NOTE: After the engine is started, the engine oil level warning light should go off if the oil level is sufficient. Turn off the engine, then check the oil level and correct it if necessary. The owners manual concedes that strictly measuring the oil volume alone during a change is insufficient to ensure the oil level is properly between the min/max marks and asks you to correct it if necessary.

Then again, many people ignore the owner's manual for things like break-in, recommended oil and some services.

Edit: I see I cross posted with Bluesy.

 

 

 

[UHOH]

When you guys change your oil, what is the proper fill level? Should the oil level be in the middle of the sight glass after the bike has set such that the oil is settled? Or at the top?

don't know which is best for the bike, only know what I've done.

I change and measure oil level when on side stand and then holding straight up, not on the center stand like many/most (not trying to persuade you).

I fill to the top mark on the site glass after running engine for 3 min and letting it sit 1 or 5 min. = probably means I overfill it compared to many.

has worked for 58,000 miles. ... we 'worry' about oil too much, imo. and I'm part of 'we.'

 

[jim oneill]

I fill mine with 1 gallon of Rotella synthetic and a Super Tech filter from Walmart, then top it off with half a bottle of Walmarts brand of STP oil treatment. Followed this routine from a suggestion here several years ago and it seems to be fine for me

 

[Patriot]

Personally, I like the level as high as I can get away with...so right at the top of the fill line with the miniscus or bubble's bottom at the line.

My old cruiser used splashing oil to cool the stator, so the theory was the higher the level of oil there was, the cooler the stator stayed.

I also believe in pre filling the filter by pouring in fresh oil till it's the element is saturated and there's a bit of a pool of oil in the bottom.

 

[Jim in Phoenix]

I fill mine with 1 gallon of Rotella synthetic and a Super Tech filter from Walmart, then top it off with half a bottle of Walmarts brand of STP oil treatment. Followed this routine from a suggestion here several years ago and it seems to be fine for me

What is the part number for the Super Tech filter? Usually, my local Walmart has the Fram filter, but not always.

 

[roger dodger]

I fill mine with 1 gallon of Rotella synthetic and a Super Tech filter from Walmart, then top it off with half a bottle of Walmarts brand of STP oil treatment. Followed this routine from a suggestion here several years ago and it seems to be fine for me

What is the part number for the Super Tech filter? Usually, my local Walmart has the Fram filter, but not always.

7317 IIRC

 

[Woketman]

Saturday AM, I go to the Honda/Yammy dealer in Slidell near me to get the Honda GN4 20W50 I have been using and some crush washers (the last change I just re-used the old washer). The lesbian girl at the parts counter was REALLY over whelmed, she was the only person there (and tries VERY hard to look like a dude). I asked for crush washers to fit an '06 FJR. She hands me five normal washer looking washers. I say "no, I want the specific Yammy crush washer that has the little portion that crushes down when torqued". She says that "these are what they use on every bike in for an oil change". I figured it was gonna be a long damn time until I got what I wanted, assuming they even had the Yammy part at all. So I figured these were some soft aluminum (they are very light) that deforms easily and serves the very same purpose for Honda bikes. So I bought them. A few hours later at home, I have all of the oil drained, put the new filter on and I go to put one of these new washers on the plug and .... DOOOOHHHHH!!! They are too damned small to fit!!! 12 mm I think, instead of 14! I call the shop I bought them at and the guy takes the time to look up the Yammy part number (took him a rather lengthy time) and he says "OH, yeah, I got lots of them". GGggrrrrrrrr!!! So I head back there in the car to get a hand full of the right washers and I am late to Oktoberfest because of it. Oh well, live and learn.....

 

[HaulinAshe]

Like most dry-sump engines, determining the exact oil level can be difficult. That's why I've been measuring the oil in Yamaha engines for years.

...with a warm engine...

remove filler cap,

drain,

remove crush washer,

remove filter,

replace filter,

replace drain plug with new crush washer,

1-gallon oil(or four 1-qt. bottles),

plus...,

another 230 ml oil (roughly one cup),

replace filler cap,

start engine and make sure oil indicator goes off,

allow engine to warm to two(2) bars then shut off,

get a fresh cup of refreshing beverage,

Do you see oil in the sight glass?

YES - Go do something else.

NO - Worry a lot and do it all again.

 

[FjrVfr]

I aim for the lower lever mark with the engine at operating temp and a few mild blips of the throttle. The next day (I usually have a beverage while changing oil) I go for a short ride and check again. I'm consistently back to the high mark by then. It's like I've got my own little refinery in there.

 

[UHOH]

Like most dry-sump engines, determining the exact oil level can be difficult.

That's why I've been measuring the oil in Yamaha engines for years.

...

FJR = dry sump :questionmark:

 

[Brodie]

You mean we actually have to change oil in these things?

Even if we burn Amsoil?

 

[RaYzerman19]

Saturday AM, I go to the Honda/Yammy dealer in Slidell near me to get the Honda GN4 20W50 I have been using and some crush washers (the last change I just re-used the old washer). The lesbian girl at the parts counter was REALLY over whelmed, she was the only person there (and tries VERY hard to look like a dude). I asked for crush washers to fit an '06 FJR. She hands me five normal washer looking washers. I say "no, I want the specific Yammy crush washer that has the little portion that crushes down when torqued". She says that "these are what they use on every bike in for an oil change". I figured it was gonna be a long damn time until I got what I wanted, assuming they even had the Yammy part at all. So I figured these were some soft aluminum (they are very light) that deforms easily and serves the very same purpose for Honda bikes. So I bought them. A few hours later at home, I have all of the oil drained, put the new filter on and I go to put one of these new washers on the plug and .... DOOOOHHHHH!!! They are too damned small to fit!!! 12 mm I think, instead of 14! I call the shop I bought them at and the guy takes the time to look up the Yammy part number (took him a rather lengthy time) and he says "OH, yeah, I got lots of them". GGggrrrrrrrr!!! So I head back there in the car to get a hand full of the right washers and I am late to Oktoberfest because of it. Oh well, live and learn.....

There are two sizes, the smaller for older Hondas, and larger for new (ST & GL). You can buy in quantity for about $.35 if you look around. They will last you a lifetime if you don't overtorque your drain plugs..... 22-24 ft. lbs. My '83 Magna I think ust have had the original one (12 mm), it was so squished it was wrapped around the drain plug head and I had to chisel it off.... never leaked, never came loose.

My Feej came with these flat aluminum Honda washers, from a Yammy only dealer...... they're just fine.

 

[John d]

Like most dry-sump engines, determining the exact oil level can be difficult.

That's why I've been measuring the oil in Yamaha engines for years.

...

FJR = dry sump :questionmark:

Nope, FJR = wet sump

Dry sump engines have separate oil tanks where oil level is read fully warmed up.

 

[BigBlu13]

Yamaha calls for 20w-40 oil. Since I can't find the 20w-40 I changed it with Yamalube 10w 40 as per the dealer say its ok on my 600 miles service on my 06. Now it feel shifting and cruising is rough. Has anyone done this and have the same sound. I only use OEM recommended parts and oil.

 

[Woketman]

I have been using the Honda 20W-50 and it has been working fine. It is what the dealer recommended.

 

[fljab]

I have been using the Honda 20W-50 and it has been working fine. It is what the dealer recommended.

Does that help increase the alternator output???