oil filter wrench

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Which type of oil filter whench do you guys recommend?
None.

Never used one and never plan to. Dab of oil on the o-ring on install....just barely finger tighten. Never backed off and ocassionally tightens up just a bit.

 
I just changed the oil on my (new to me) '08. Used a HIFLO Filtro HF148 filter and a 65/67mm oil filter wrench. It's a metal one I got from AutoZone. Used a torque wrench and torqued it to 10Nm (the spec on this filter is 8-12Nm - the yamaha spec is greater, around 15 if I recall correctly).

 
I prefer the cup style oil filter wrench but find that they are generally a loose fit. I found this 64MM wrench that is made specially for newer Toyotas which use a cartridge type filter and it fits the FJR filter nice and snug. It is pricey, but since I own a 2010 Toyota I needed the wrench anyway.

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17mm socket (Thank you, K&N...) One socket to rule them all: oil pan drain plug, oil filter, final drive fill plug and final drive drain plug.

+1 I buy the years supply of K&N filters from Motorcycle S/S when they hold their 40% off spring sale, good to go for the season.

 
Seems to me that this thread is almost going N.E.P.R.T., but I wanted to run this by the collective: It seems to me that once you put a thin film of oil on the filter gasket, spin it on, and once the metal body of the filter bottoms out, STOP. Further tightening will be pointless. When I had my VTX, there was much discussion on that forum on torque values for the filter, but the filter on the Honda would act the same as on the FJR. Also, a big pair of channel locks works just fine, unless you plan on re-using the filter............................. :unsure:

 
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Seems to me that this thread is almost going N.E.P.R.T., but I wanted to run this by the collective: It seems to me that once you put a thin film of oil on the filter gasket, spin it on, and once the metal body of the filter bottoms out, STOP. Further tightening will be pointless. When I had my VTX, there was much discussion on that forum on torque values for the filter, but the filter on the Honda would act the same as on the FJR. Also, a big pair of channel locks works just fine, unless you plan on re-using the filter............................. :unsure:
Well, that's what I do (oil gasket, spin it on until it touches the base, then about 1/2 turn further. Never had a leak on any vehicle that has a "spin on" filter with this technique. However, sometimes it takes a wrench to take it off??

 
mystery solved here for me. I have the removal tool offered by amsoil. however it was purchased at a K-mart in atlanta around 1980 and does not have any mfr name or part number on it. A few guys have asked about it and no one I know was ever able to find another one like it.(even at the k-mart) It is a great tool for removing almost any, lets say, normal sized filter and does not have problems fitting in the tight spots. What you may not know from looking at the photo is that it simply fits on a 3/8 drive socket wrench or extension to reach into tight spots.

I am happy to know where to get another one in case mine gets gone because I cant see any other type working as well as this one.

 
If you have to use a wrench to remove it, you put it on too tightly last change. A little oil on the gasket, spin it on. When it won't spin any more, a quarter, maybe half turn more.
That is not really correct statement. I use exactly the same technique as you describe and at times need help removing it.

What I have been using on ALL my vehicles for the last 18 yrs is this tool. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/filterwrenches.aspx

I have found it to work in all cases no matter how little room there is.

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I have one of these also and it's a nice tool. Recently I've switched over to the K&N oil filter with the nut on top.

 
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