Uncle Hud
Just another blob of protoplasm using up your oxyg
Whatever's on sale. (I can't believe this Forum has yet ANOTHER oil thread.)
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Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
ReRose
Active member
Mobile 1 15w50 and it is not mc specific which means it is cage oil.
RossKean
Well-known member
So what?
It is not "Energy Conserving" and presents no problem with a motorcycle wet clutch. It is a high quality synthetic oil. Lots of people use it, without issue.
Not only is Shell Rotella T6 5W40 NOT a motorcycle-specific oil but it was specifically designed for diesel engines (not gasoline). I used it for most of 200,000 miles on my '07 and the engine was still going strong when I sold it last year.
SwollenRaccoon
Well-known member
Mobil1 15W-50. Used it in my VTR for 20+ years, with track days thrown in for fun, and have used it in the FJR for the last 10 years. No problems. And I can get a 5 quart jug at Walmart for $25.58, +/- a few cents.
Abercrombie FJR
Well-known member
What I can't believe is how kind and gentle everyone has been to the new guy who started an oil thread. Maybe we're maturing around here. Since you asked, I use Mobile 1 T6 10W40. Its motorcycle specific, meets all Yamaha recommendations, and gives me a warm fuzzy feeling knowing I've thrown an extra $20.00 upgrading to synthetic oil. The best part about it is I use the same oil in all my bikes except the Beta. I get an extra warm fuzzy feeling using Motul 7100 and Motul Trasoil Expert in my new Italian girl.
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Yes. I use oil.
Pterodactyl
Well-known member
The question is..... is there an oil that meets the manufacturer's specifications that should be avoided? Will cause damage to an FJR's engine? Results in testicular shrinkage? If there is such an oil, then its over use by members of this forum may account for the behavior Abercrombie mentioned.
RossKean
Well-known member
The only issue with oil (as long as it meets specs and isn't specifically "energy conserving"), is that some bikes don't "like" some oils. While I have always found the Rotella Synthetic (T6, 5W40) to be good, some people have complained about clunkier shifting. I found that the conventional Rotella possibly a bit less smooth. I have heard similar complaints with Castrol MC oil. Anyone ever heard of an oil-related failure in an FJR?
It needs oil
Avoid "energy conserving" or oils formulated for high mileage vehicles. (special additives could cause issues with seals etc.)
Avoid oil additives. Possible exception is STP (zinc phosphate additive). It adds extra which MAY reduce some wear but there is little evidence it does much. Too high ZDDP has been reported to cause pitting and damage to catalytic converters so more might be too much. Do you feel lucky?
Lubricity enhancements are not likely to be a good idea with a wet clutch - Teflon, Molybdenum disulfide etc.
Use the proper oil volume
Check level (on centerstand) after taking it for a run.
Fresh filter every second change - more if you want
Many threads on oil filters - take your pick or use OEM.
I'm happy with 5,000 mile change intervals and have been known to extend significantly when on a trip.
Conventional or synthetic - whatever makes you happy. I feel better about extending the drain interval using synthetic.
It needs oil
Avoid "energy conserving" or oils formulated for high mileage vehicles. (special additives could cause issues with seals etc.)
Avoid oil additives. Possible exception is STP (zinc phosphate additive). It adds extra which MAY reduce some wear but there is little evidence it does much. Too high ZDDP has been reported to cause pitting and damage to catalytic converters so more might be too much. Do you feel lucky?
Lubricity enhancements are not likely to be a good idea with a wet clutch - Teflon, Molybdenum disulfide etc.
Use the proper oil volume
Check level (on centerstand) after taking it for a run.
Fresh filter every second change - more if you want
Many threads on oil filters - take your pick or use OEM.
I'm happy with 5,000 mile change intervals and have been known to extend significantly when on a trip.
Conventional or synthetic - whatever makes you happy. I feel better about extending the drain interval using synthetic.
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Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Valvoline 10w-30 M/C oil in the spring and autumn, 20w-50 in the heat of the southeast summer if the oil change happens to fall that way. Otherwise just 10w-30 all year round. Check AutoZone if you have one nearby, they're really good at giving away a free filter if you buy 5 qts. Last time I got 5qts, a free M1-110 filter and $7 rebate.
E
El Guapo Loco
Guest
OK, wellll..... lol
My question was more about the viscosity, than the brand.
Thanks for the replies and welcomes
My question was more about the viscosity, than the brand.
Thanks for the replies and welcomes
RossKean
Well-known member
The lower number in a multigrade oil can be lower than the 20W from the manual - especially if you ride in colder conditions. Some synthetics have a wide range - Rotella T6 is 5W40. Just means it will flow better at low temperatures but still retains sufficient viscosity at higher temperatures.
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roger dodger
Well-known member
Gotta love Rotella Synthetic 5w-40...
Gotta love Rotella dino 15w-40...
So I mix them 1/2 n 1/2 to get a custom blend of 10w-40 for cheap!
IMHO there is no need for higher viscosity in a quality water-cooled engine. YMMV
Gotta love Rotella dino 15w-40...
So I mix them 1/2 n 1/2 to get a custom blend of 10w-40 for cheap!
IMHO there is no need for higher viscosity in a quality water-cooled engine. YMMV
Abercrombie FJR
Well-known member
What the hell? Different weight oil for different countries. My owners manual lists other weights.From one of my Rider's Manuals (can't remember which year, but they are all similar).
One thing is for sure, it's not critical with this engine.
BigOgre
Well-known member
No, same weights. They just added those other ones 'cause they know where you live.What the hell? Different weight oil for different countries. My owners manual lists other weights.From one of my Rider's Manuals (can't remember which year, but they are all similar).
One thing is for sure, it's not critical with this engine.
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Yamaha obviously thought the English weren't stupid enough to ride when it's below 10C. Wrong, but that's what they thought.No, same weights. They just added those other ones 'cause they know where you live.What the hell? Different weight oil for different countries. My owners manual lists other weights.From one of my Rider's Manuals (can't remember which year, but they are all similar).
One thing is for sure, it's not critical with this engine.
Sorta like the special Cali canister.
Just checked my latest Rider's Manual, it doesn't have a temperature chart, merely says:
Engine oil:
Recommended brand: YAMALUBE
SAE viscosity grades: 10W-40
Recommended engine oil grade:
API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA
Engine oil quantity: Oil change:
3.80 L (4.02 US qt, 3.34 Imp.qt)
With oil filter removal:
4.00 L (4.23 US qt, 3.52 Imp.qt)
Since they quote litres, Imperial quarts and US quarts, I guess they now think this grade covers all parts of the world and all temperatures. Which it probably does. Who's ever heard of any FJR engine suffering from the wrong grade of oil?
And now they only need to stock one grade of Yamalube.
E
El Guapo Loco
Guest
My local wal-mart... Well, everything in this town... wowRotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic is my fave flavour.
Oh yes, YMMV...
I ended up with The 5w40. They had none of the mobile 1. It seems to be sweet - the motor likes it. If it can hold up under the pressures of big truck diesels I'm sure the FJR will not be a problem.
I read somewhere that the 5w and 0w oils need "viscosity enhancers" (whatever that is). Also said something about tiny rubber particles? Anybody know more about this?
E
El Guapo Loco
Guest
Oh, and I thank you all for your "kindness and gentleness." And your replies
Some say that in life, everything moves up... when you're 20, it's between your legs; when you're 60, it's between your ears.
There are many definitions of the word "man." The one an individual chooses describes that individual, as always. My choice is: "A man is someone that has nothing left to prove and, more importantly, no one left, to whom he needs to prove it."
To those that have attained the status of man, it is my grand pleasure to meet you. Boys will be ignored because I don't NEED to win and making you lose has no value, to me.
70 is closing in on me, fast. I have few complaints about life but the worst thing is by the time you figure stuff out you're too damn old to use the knowledge you fought so hard, to gain...
Some say that in life, everything moves up... when you're 20, it's between your legs; when you're 60, it's between your ears.
There are many definitions of the word "man." The one an individual chooses describes that individual, as always. My choice is: "A man is someone that has nothing left to prove and, more importantly, no one left, to whom he needs to prove it."
To those that have attained the status of man, it is my grand pleasure to meet you. Boys will be ignored because I don't NEED to win and making you lose has no value, to me.
70 is closing in on me, fast. I have few complaints about life but the worst thing is by the time you figure stuff out you're too damn old to use the knowledge you fought so hard, to gain...
redneckj
Well-known member
Mobil 1 10w/40 High Mileage from WalMart for me. The high mileage does not have the energy conserving stuff in it. I can usually get my Bosch filter when I am there too.
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