OMG! He's asking about trailering an FJR!

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I'm getting ready to install a Heli Modified riser but their instructions say not to use handlebar tie-downs after the mod. So, how am I supposed to tie down the front end? I currently use a setup similar to several pictures posted in this thread. Suggestions, other than "don't trailer your FJR", would be greatly appreciated.
Chief,

I don't recommend using handlebar tie-downs on an FJR with or without the risers installed. On a dirt bike with tubular steel bars, sure. But look at the construction of the cast alloy FJR handlebars (those are NOT steel) and consider the amount of weight that will be bouncing around on that trailer. Other folks like to live a little more dangerously and will tell you they have used them before.

I prefer to run the front end tie-downs to the lower triple tree and loop a soft-tie around the fork leg and over the tree. If the angle to the tie point is correct (approx. 45 degree angle to the floor) you will have minimal contact or pressure on the painted parts.
Do you have a photo?

ditto on the dont' use the FJR handlebars to tie her down.

On the photo that shows the extension straps... slip one loop thru the other, it gets the hooks away from the paint...

and use ratchets... Sam's club and Walmart sells a nice set of 4 for about $20. They marked for cars, they work great on the bikes, big rachets.

Two on the front soft straps...pull down and forward...

and two on the rear passenger pegs to keep the rear from hopping.

My trailer has a wood floor and I put some big eyebolts up at the very front, about 4 feet or so apart, and two a bit further back.

I also used a Pingle bike chock, it's bolted to the floor at the front. Just ride the bike up.

I actually have two new chocks for sale, my "bright idea" for my trailer didnt' work out ... :angry:

I dont' have a pic, but here's a link....

https://www.pingelonline.com/wheel_chock_permanent.htm

It's the WC65H

Pingle includes instructions on how to trailer and install the chocks.

As long as the bike is pulled forward, and the front forks compressed, the short time you'll be traveling won't be a problem.

I think the Bandit was on the trailer for about 1 1/2 weeks on one trip. Although I did have Progressives on the front, it was fine the day after I took off the straps.

My FJR went from Ohio to Texas, and then up to Kentucky. No problem.

My Suzuki Bandit went from Ohio to Cali , then Texas and back to Ohio and then back to Texas.

The Harley went from Texas to Ohio and back to Texas. Oh, and a couple of trips from O'ahu to the Big Island of Hawaii and back.

No chocks, just 4 tiedowns in a 40' shipping container on a barge...And yes, we tied down our own bikes.

The Triumph just went from Ohio to Texas.

All this within the past 2 years...2006, and 2007.

I've really got to ride more and trailer less...

Or stop moving form place to place! :unsure:

Mary

 
Condor chock. Best of field and easy to use. No canyon dancer for main tie downs. OK to use with the condor as bar stabilizers. Just tie downs on the rear so the rear tire doesn't jump around. If not using a self holding chock use the lower triple clamps for tie down points.

 
Condor chock. Best of field and easy to use. No canyon dancer for main tie downs. OK to use with the condor as bar stabilizers. Just tie downs on the rear so the rear tire doesn't jump around. If not using a self holding chock use the lower triple clamps for tie down points.
I agree. If you have the coin, getting a self holding (active) wheel chock like a Condor (there are other brands) is nice because after you ride the bike into the chock you won't drop it trying to get all the straps on. That is also the only way that I would use a Canyon Dancer type handlebar strap on an FJR, but even then I'd be tempted to tie down to the lower triple clamp for the added security.

 
I've always used handlebar tie-down but will go to attaching at the lower triple tree thanks to everyone's advise. I've never had a problem using the handlebars, even with the FJR. Still, better safe than sorry. Thanks again for the info. Now, to find some lower extension straps. Any suggestions?

 
Is anyone using e-tracks to tie down their bike. I'm considering it but don't know how well it holds, particularly at odd angles. I see they have ring mounts, which seem like a very good and versatile idea but I would first like to hear from forum members that have experience with it.

 
I've always used handlebar tie-down but will go to attaching at the lower triple tree thanks to everyone's advise. I've never had a problem using the handlebars, even with the FJR. Still, better safe than sorry. Thanks again for the info. Now, to find some lower extension straps. Any suggestions?

Soft Ties

You can find these at many local bike shops. Make sure they are 1" or larger, not smaller.

Also, I just drilled holes in my metal trailer floor and threaded some hefty eye bolts in with good size washers underneath for reinforcement.

 
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I am trying to decide between two anchor styles, one of them being e-track. I like flush mounted tiedowns because them minimize the chance of me tripping over them (I'm a clutz). This is what I'm leaning towards, but the versatility of the e-track system has attracted my attention.

 
I am trying to decide between two anchor styles, one of them being e-track. I like flush mounted tiedowns because them minimize the chance of me tripping over them (I'm a clutz). This is what I'm leaning towards, but the versatility of the e-track system has attracted my attention.
Those should be fine, just make sure you use substantial bolts with washers and nuts on the back (definitely not wood screws). I'm assuming you have a wood deck because you have to cut a pretty big hole for the recess well to go in. Once you figure where the tie point needs to be it isn't gonna move. The track dealio would be good if you were gonna carry choppers sometimes or something and needed to move the tie point fore and aft.

 
One thing not mentioned so far is to always tape the open end of the tie down hooks so they cannot unhook themselves if the bike sways (and it will) and momentarily loosens the tiedown slightly. You can trailer thousands of miles without doing this with no problem....but one time that a tiedown unhooks itself is all it takes to learn. Always tape the open end of the tiedown hooks for security !!

 
One thing not mentioned so far is to always tape the open end of the tie down hooks so they cannot unhook themselves if the bike sways (and it will) and momentarily loosens the tiedown slightly. You can trailer thousands of miles without doing this with no problem....but one time that a tiedown unhooks itself is all it takes to learn. Always tape the open end of the tiedown hooks for security !!
Excellent point, especially the hook that goes through the end of the soft-tie. Alternately, there are tie downs that have a spring loaded hook closure thingees (yeah, that's a technical term) if one was so inclined, such as these bad boys: Linkage

 
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