Penske shock install

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dcarver

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Fine. Just Fine. Enjoyed every freakin' minute of installing the Pensky.

After reading all the of real mechanic's tales of how easy it was to install the group buy Penske shock, I thought I'd give it a try on my 2006 ABS.

...for me, this was NOT an easy install. Here are some of the problems, and hopefully you won't repeat them, that I encountered.

1. I had to remove the voltage rectifier / regulator to clear the hi/low adjustment of the stock shock. Simply removing the connectors should have been easy enough, except the right hand side connector, the ACV carrier, would NOT come off. So I had to remove the entire regulator and aluminum shield to clear the shock cable, a real PIA. I didn't want to remove the rear tire, so I sacrificed my fat hands and scarred them up, as in blood everywhere, to get that sucka out.

2. The right connector would NOT come off. I depressed the tab, gently tried to remove the connector, no luck. I tried lifting the tab, no luck. Finally, I depressed the tab and used a screw driver to try and break the 'stiction' between the and female connectors. Of course, the only thing I broke was the tab, so on reassembly I had to use a ty-rap to keep the connector connected. Sigh.

3. The upper shock bolt would NOT clear the ABS bracketry. After all was said, and done, I read that some other fart smeller had success removing the bolt by driving the bolt out as far as possible, then removing the 'collar' or 'spacer' to wiggle the bolt free. Me, I just took the die grinder out and cut a nice semi-circle in the ABS bracket to allow easy bolt removal and, more importantly, I can easily get at 17mm socket in there now.

4. I lost the little collar, just like FJFencer did. Sigh. I saw it, heard it drop, then looked for over 30 minutes, even putting on my granny glasses I couldn't find it, so I reassembled EVERTHING and went for a ride. After returning, I looked one more time and FOUND the collar, wedged into a crevice of the center stand. I fetched it, then spent most of the night wondering if it was only needed for the stock shock or if it was also needed with the Penske shock.

4a. YES, the collar is absolutely needed. It 'centers' the bolt in on the right side. So, the next day I assembled it 'correctly'.

5. I found it freakin' impossible to install the rect/regulator and shield without removing the rear tire. So I removed it, and of course in the process the wheel weights fell off...

6. OK, I'm stoopid. It took me some time to figure out exactly how the fancy-shamncy remote reservoir was supposed to line up to the bracket. I first bolted it to the front, but the SS line didn't look happy with that routing, so then I attempted to route it on the back. No good either. For the record, it's supposed to be up front.

Well, I guess that's about it. My 1 hour job estimate turned out to be more like 5 hours, and I ended up with a broken connector for the regulator. I'm still not sure on how to properly remove that connector, but don't reply with answers here please, I'll create a new thread.

Good Luck Future Installers --

Back40 mekanic Don

 
Well Don I had the similar problems getting those connectors, I have never seen electrical connectors that are so tight. Doesn't help they are in such a tight space. If it will you feel any better I can tell you the story of how my bathroom remodel is going. So, how's the ride?

 
Oooohhhhh, you had a madmike project! :dribble: Bid at 2 hours and it takes 8...sounds about right! :eek: IIRC, someplace, Highlander did a write-up of his last year and mentioned some of those very issues. At least you now have it done! (Assuming you found the spacer...) ;)

So, how's the ride?
That would be the question of the moment!
 
Sheesh, I reinstalled my re-built Wilbers in about 5 minutes. What's your problem, Thumbs? :lol:

You know I told you I'd be happy to help with that stuff. Did you lose my phone number?

 
Sheesh, I reinstalled my re-built Wilbers in about 5 minutes. What's your problem, Thumbs? :lol:
You know I told you I'd be happy to help with that stuff. Did you lose my phone number?
Yebbut...he's gots wunna them new-fangled GenII, "garage princess", bambi attracting bikes. :eek: And Carver don't ask fer noe hep! :(

:lol: :p

 
1. I had to remove the voltage rectifier / regulator to clear the hi/low adjustment of the stock shock. Simply removing the connectors should have been easy enough, except the right hand side connector, the ACV carrier, would NOT come off.
I had the same problem. Started to try and get the Hi / Low switch out without removing it and saw it probably wasn't going to, gave it another try and it finally came off.

However, I don't know how those cables run from the factory, but mine were run over the top of that rectifier through the bracket that holds it on that little cross-member. They may of done that at my local dealer when the factory shock was replaced under warranty this past Sept. Man, was I cussing those guys! I think I made up some new words getting that shock off. :angry:

After reading the 'How To's' they all said the cables just snaked out around the rectifier, you just had to work it a bit. Two hours of trying to snake around, pushing and pulling and no results. Of course, a lift would of helped as the height you needed to be to see in there for any length of time was positioning yourself raised off the floor, not good on this old back. :)

Finally figured out the cables were actually run through a bracket and the only way to get it off was to either cut the cables, or the lever / switch had to come apart. Lo and behold, the switch does come apart and the cable ends pop out of slots and WALLAH! The cable is snaked out. (EDIT: I highly recommend doing this as it's easy and will make the job of getting that whole cable assembly out easier.)

Also had the same problem with the top shock bolt. Took a small pry bar and bent the bracket holding the ABS up. Also had a brake line in the way and it kept pulling the socket off my extension, which then sent me on a fishing expedition to get it. I removed the bolts for the rear master cylinder and pegs and that allowed the brake line to lower out of the way. Once that was done it was a lot easier to get a hand and wrench in there.

All in all, what should of been a two hour job lasted about 4 1/2. But it's done! :)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sheesh, I reinstalled my re-built Wilbers in about 5 minutes. What's your problem, Thumbs? :lol:
You know I told you I'd be happy to help with that stuff. Did you lose my phone number?
Tim, I actually thought about calling you to tell you that you now owe ME a freakin' dinner for NOT asking for your help. Your 05 has yards of space as compared to the 06. I will, however, take you up on the offer to assist with a compete 'rear end service' (oh ****, watch the sick boyz ruin this thread now.. :unsure: ) e.g. what you did to yours; swing arm bearings, u joint, dog bones, etc. In June I'm scheduled for a ss1k to GPS to have my forks done. Either I'll have the rear end greased by then or I'll have a dealer in WA do it, not sure how far away Dan and the boyz are from GPS..

Carver,No where in your report did you mention that you used bad language or alcohol, thus the problem is........ :yahoo:
The problem most likely was NO freakin' alcohol. When the work I'm doing can affect my LIFE, I tend to be pretty damn conservative. NOTE, IGGY, this was NOT a POLITICAL statement! :rolleyes: ....and, I learned long ago that if I'm cussing at a project, it is time to STOP. I never even had a swear word, except for my freaking old eyes that don't allow me see up close anymore when looking for AWOL parts..

1. I had to remove the voltage rectifier / regulator to clear the hi/low adjustment of the stock shock. Simply removing the connectors should have been easy enough, except the right hand side connector, the ACV carrier, would NOT come off.
However, I don't know how those cables run from the factory, but mine were run over the top of that rectifier through the bracket that holds it on that little cross-member. They may of done that at my local dealer when the factory shock was replaced under warranty this past Sept. Man, was I cussing those guys! I think I made up some new words getting that shock off. :angry:

That is the factory install, I think, as mine was EXACTLY the same.

Finally figured out the cables were actually run through a bracket and the only way to get it off was to either cut the cables, or the lever / switch had to come apart. Lo and behold, the switch does come apart and the cable ends pop out of slots and WALLAH! The cable is snaked out. (EDIT: I highly recommend doing this as it's easy and will make the job of getting that whole cable assembly out easier.)

No ****? So why didn't you call me? My regulator connector would still be in on piece had I known that! :unsure: :rolleyes:

Also had a brake line in the way and it kept pulling the socket off my extension, which then sent me on a fishing expedition to get it. I removed the bolts for the rear master cylinder and pegs and that allowed the brake line to lower out of the way. Once that was done it was a lot easier to get a hand and wrench in there.

Yep, I know that brake line well. I used a t-handle allen wrench to move the hose, then used a small bungee to keep the lever arm / hose out of my way, so I could use both hands again.
One last thought, and it's an old and very well known mechanics trick that maybe someone new to the forum doesn't know about so I'll mention it here..

Using electrical to secure the nut to a socket is your best friend. Start wrapping the tape around the socket's end, then cover 1 or 2 raps around the nut 'flange'. This will secure the nut to the socket, allowing you to wedge, wiggle, and get the nut started on the bolt. After you're sure you have it started correctly, not cross-threaded, you simply pull the socket away, the tape 'breaks', and you're done. [SIZE=8pt]I know, I know, all you old timers know this crap, but someone just might think this is the greatest thing they ever read! [/SIZE]

 
[SIZE=8pt] but someone just might think this is the greatest thing they ever read! [/SIZE]
I'm going to go with second best, I still have hopes the 'nut is going to post up something spectacular. You know, infinitely many monkeys on infinitely many typewriters and all...

 
I removed my stock shock and had the same problem trying to get the top bolt out. An easy way to do it is to remove the two bottom bolts and nuts on the sub frame just above the foot pegs, then remove two of the 4 top bolts on the sub frame and loosen the other two. Now the sub frame can be lifted a couple of inches at the rear, which causes it to hinge at the top, and the top shock bolt then clears the ABS mount.

But after waiting two months for the new shock to come, and it never did, I said the hell with it and put the original back in. Maybe next year. I did get an excellent opportunity to clean the original shock though while it was out.

 
Carver,
No where in your report did you mention that you used bad language or alcohol, thus the problem is........ :yahoo:
How many beers??? :drinks: :lol: :lol:

I agree the upper bolt can be a PIA.

AT least you get to enjoy it now. I got to wait for better weather first. :(

 
No ****? So why didn't you call me? My regulator connector would still be in on piece had I known that! :unsure: :rolleyes:
LOL! After I finished the job and put all the tools away, I realized I hadn't called you to let you know. It was late, so I went for a beer instead. :yahoo: I then realized, I don't even have your number nor have any idea whom you are! :) :)

I can't believe someone hasn't included that little bit of info in a how to.

 
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