Power Commander

[EasyRider]

I'm taking my FJR in this Saturday to a Power Commander approved dealer for a new PCIII. :clapping:

He's going to Dyno the bike after the install. :yahoo:

Originally he wanted to set it up with a Power Commander map for an 07 with no performance mods, but I asked him

to run it on the dyno despite the added cost. I told him my goal is a smooth map for smother transitions to and from open and closed throttle. He

said he will be able to improve the on off throttle transitions.

I saw a few post about Wally's smoothness map but they are for the Generation 1 FJR. And I saw a few more about modified a Wally's map

modified for the FJR second generation bike. But none links for the maps seem to be downloadable. Do you guys have any recommendations that I can pass along to the dyno guy?

If it dose smooth out the throttle I'm going to try the bike again with out the G2 throttle cam. I don't like having to grab such a hand full of throttle to lay into it for a pass.

 

[UselessPickles]

I believe the Wally's smoothness map for GENII bikes that you are referring to can be found here (at the end of the first post): https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=27653

I'd be very interested in finding out how close this calculated map is to ideal when tested on a dyno

 

[SkooterG]

I'd be very interested in finding out how close this calculated map is to ideal when tested on a dyno

There are a lot of variables going on here, and trying to determine an 'ideal' map is quite subjective.

Every map developed on a dyno will be different for each individual bike.

Additionally, the Wally map was developed for smoothmess in the mid rpm range. If you have a tuner going for max power, or even his individual take on 'smoothness' they are going to be different.

So while comparisons are interesting to do, don't ever put too much stock in any map that wasn't developed specifically for your bike. Still, that doesn't mean you can't reap the benefits from any of these maps.

 

[EasyRider]

I'd be very interested in finding out how close this calculated map is to ideal when tested on a dyno

There are a lot of variables going on here, and trying to determine an 'ideal' map is quite subjective.

Every map developed on a dyno will be different for each individual bike.

Additionally, the Wally map was developed for smoothmess in the mid rpm range. If you have a tuner going for max power, or even his individual take on 'smoothness' they are going to be different.

So while comparisons are interesting to do, don't ever put too much stock in any map that wasn't developed specifically for your bike. Still, that doesn't mean you can't reap the benefits from any of these maps.

So I guess its best to let the Dyno guy make a custom map for my bike from scratch.

My bike will be on the Dyno at noon tomorrow. I will remind the Dyno operator that I would like a smoothness map for on and off throttle. I'm sure if the HP suffers a little, I will still have plenty left over.

Do you guys know how I can get a copy of the map from the Dyno operator? I guess he can just download a copy from his PC to my storage card I use on my PC.

 

[FJRay]

I am sure the dyno guy knows what he is doing but make sure the lower plastic is off and some really big fans are blowing on the front and the exhaust. Things get really hot in a hurry with no air flow.

 

[El Toro]

There are two other issues anyone who is putting their bike on a chassis dyno ought to know about.

1. An inertia dyno isn't worth much. They should be using a brake based dyno for tuning. An inertia dyno is just for showing the rubes their power figures.

2. Throw the tire away when you're done, or save it for your next chassis dyno appointment. A rolling road style dyno (chassis dyno) flexes the tire in a way that was unintended by the tire manufacturer. It can damage the tire, but the damage won't show up until later out on the road. Could be a hundred miles, could be a few thousand.

I'm expecting all the guys who've done it with no immediate ill effect to chime in now and tell everyone that is OK to get on a chassis dyno and not discard the tire when you're done. If you check with the tire manufacturers, or if you look at any credible research source on the subject, they'll tell you its not recommended because of hidden tire damage that can occur with the continuous unintended flexing.

 

[EasyRider]

There are two other issues anyone who is putting their bike on a chassis dyno ought to know about.
1. An inertia dyno isn't worth much. They should be using a brake based dyno for tuning. An inertia dyno is just for showing the rubes their power figures.

2. Throw the tire away when you're done, or save it for your next chassis dyno appointment. A rolling road style dyno (chassis dyno) flexes the tire in a way that was unintended by the tire manufacturer. It can damage the tire, but the damage won't show up until later out on the road. Could be a hundred miles, could be a few thousand.

I'm expecting all the guys who've done it with no immediate ill effect to chime in now and tell everyone that is OK to get on a chassis dyno and not discard the tire when you're done. If you check with the tire manufacturers, or if you look at any credible research source on the subject, they'll tell you its not recommended because of hidden tire damage that can occur with the continuous unintended flexing.

Oh great, now I have to buy a new rear tire? Maybe I should try skipping the Dyno and just use the Power Comander map for a stock FJR.

I don't know, I just want to make sure I don't take a short cut and not get the best job done to fix the FJR throttle jerk.

This is realy messed up that we have to go through this crap anyway just to have smooth on / off throttle transitions. I guess we can blame a pursuit of very lean emissions as the cause of this throttle issue? I wonder if the motor was not originally designed for such tight emissions and had to be leaned out too far to meet the new standards. Either way its messed up that we are left to fix it on our own.

 

[RiderCoach Lar]

I just installed a PCIII that I purchased on the current group buy for $269, delivered, and ran the stock map for Gen II bikes (M419-001). It made such a HUGE difference in eliminating "throttle jerk" and overall smoothness that it's hard to believe it's the same bike.

You might want to do that first. Then, if you stilll find the throttle too jerky, take it to your tuner.

Just my $.02

 

[EasyRider]

I just installed a PCIII that I purchased on the current group buy for $269, delivered, and ran the stock map for Gen II bikes (M419-001). It made such a HUGE difference in eliminating "throttle jerk" and overall smoothness that it's hard to believe it's the same bike.
You might want to do that first. Then, if you stilll find the throttle too jerky, take it to your tuner.

Just my $.02

The guy down at Dyno Solutions suggested I do just that. I thought the group consciences here was that FJR getting power commanders need to be run on the Dyno to optimize smoothness. So I asked to have it run on the Dyno.

I'll call the guy now before my appointment and see if I would be messing up his schedule not to dyno it after all.

The Power Commander, Dyno and a new tire is getting a little out of control.

Thanks for sharing your results B)

 

[EasyRider]

I got my Power Commander installed today at Dyno Solutions in Brookfield CT today.

They did do a couple of pulls with my 07 FJR on their Dyno after the install.

The bike runs much much better. :yahoo: It just like the others said, it's a new bike. :yahoo:

I was tired, and it was hot and muggy when I left the Dyno Solutions, but I took the bike out to north west Connecticut anyway. I did not notice much at first and almost turned around for home after a short ride. But once I got my freedom from the cagers in the faster twisties, I started to feel how much better it was. I stayed out for five hours dispite the iminate threat of rain.

The shifting is a lot smoother and I feel more confident with running it in the high RPM range. I don't feel nervous with how it will behave above six grand any more. On off on light throttle use in the turns is compleatly smooth now.

It's going to be hard to get anything done around house for the rest of this riding season. :yahoo:

Oh, after the PCIII install they put my FJR on their DynoJet 250i Dyno. The bike ran a peak of 124.24 Max HP at 8,000 RPM and 84.51 Max Torque at 6,800 RPM. The pulls were 79.47 degrees fahrenheit and the humidity was 63%

 

[jjsC6]

I got my Power Commander installed today at Dyno Solutions in Brookfield CT today.
They did do a couple of pulls with my 07 FJR on their Dyno after the install.

The bike runs much much better. :yahoo: It just like the others said, it's a new bike. :yahoo:

I was tired, and it was hot and muggy when I left the Dyno Solutions, but I took the bike out to north west Connecticut anyway. I did not notice much at first and almost turned around for home after a short ride. But once I got my freedom from the cagers in the faster twisties, I started to feel how much better it was. I stayed out for five hours dispite the iminate threat of rain.

The shifting is a lot smoother and I feel more confident with running it in the high RPM range. I don't feel nervous with how it will behave above six grand any more. On off on light throttle use in the turns is compleatly smooth now.

It's going to be hard to get anything done around house for the rest of this riding season. :yahoo:

Oh, after the PCIII install they put my FJR on their DynoJet 250i Dyno. The bike ran a peak of 124.24 Max HP at 8,000 RPM and 84.51 Max Torque at 6,800 RPM. The pulls were 79.47 degrees fahrenheit and the humidity was 63%

Congratulations!

 

[ngarider]

Can you post your graph with A/F ?? I'd like to see what a 'tuner' did between stock and his program.

Also, can you suck out your program (that he uploaded) and compare to the stock map Dynojet provides?

I got my Power Commander installed today at Dyno Solutions in Brookfield CT today.
They did do a couple of pulls with my 07 FJR on their Dyno after the install.

The bike runs much much better. :yahoo: It just like the others said, it's a new bike. :yahoo:

I was tired, and it was hot and muggy when I left the Dyno Solutions, but I took the bike out to north west Connecticut anyway. I did not notice much at first and almost turned around for home after a short ride. But once I got my freedom from the cagers in the faster twisties, I started to feel how much better it was. I stayed out for five hours dispite the iminate threat of rain.

The shifting is a lot smoother and I feel more confident with running it in the high RPM range. I don't feel nervous with how it will behave above six grand any more. On off on light throttle use in the turns is compleatly smooth now.

It's going to be hard to get anything done around house for the rest of this riding season. :yahoo:

Oh, after the PCIII install they put my FJR on their DynoJet 250i Dyno. The bike ran a peak of 124.24 Max HP at 8,000 RPM and 84.51 Max Torque at 6,800 RPM. The pulls were 79.47 degrees fahrenheit and the humidity was 63%

Congratulations!

 

[Solo]

Have you tried it yet with the stock throttle tube? I'm about to add a PCIII and I have the G2 throttle tube and cam. The good thing about the G2 is that it eases the abruptness, the bad thing is that it takes a lot of the grunt out of a slight turn of the throttle. I'm figuring that I'll try the PCIII with the stock tube after a run with the G2. I'm interested in what you found out.