Problem after Barbarian Mod

[DCioce]

After installing the Barbarian Jumper Mod on my '06 and accessing the computer, I thought I was in the CO program but I may have been in the radiator fan turn-on temperature program. I think I accidently changed the number of degrees "C" at which the fans turn on. My bike seems to run hotter around town now (two bars higher - one past the half waymark) and the ambient air temp is currently 10-15 degrees cooler.

Does anyone have a list of the stock settings now accessable by the Jumper mod? I looked in my US repair manual but I don't see a list of the normal settings. Maybe the Eurpoean manual states them?

Doug

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

After installing the Barbarian Jumper Mod on my '06 and accessing the computer, I thought I was in the CO program but I may have been in the radiator fan turn-on temperature program. I think I accidently changed the number of degrees "C" at which the fans turn on. My bike seems to run hotter around town now (two bars higher - one past the half waymark) and the ambient air temp is currently 10-15 degrees cooler.Does anyone have a list of the stock settings now accessable by the Jumper mod? I looked in my US repair manual but I don't see a list of the normal settings. Maybe the Eurpoean manual states them?

Doug

Maybe dumb, but most of us wrote down the stock settings somewhere safe in case we wanted to go back to stock. Did you write the settings down?

 

[wallypiper]

I don't know what value you changed, but according to the service manual I have (LIT-11616-FJ-02), the fan swtich point is not adjustable. The sensor is a swtich, not an analog transmitter or transducer.

On temperature rise, it should close at 105C. On temperature fall, it should open at 100C.

So, whatever it was you changed, it should not affect the operation of the fan. Although the ON/OFF signal is processed by the ECU, the switch points are fixed by the sensor and not adjustable. The ECU sees the sensor/switch close and turns on a relay which turns on the fan. When the ECU sees the sensor/switch open again, it turns the relay off which turns the fan off.

 

[Wolfhound]

If you did the recommended +7, then just -7 should take care of it. Did you use some other number ? There is no normal setting, most are a bit different....

 

[wallypiper]

Strange.

After considering that there is a sort of analog display on the dash for coolant temp, I studied the shop manual some more. It seems, at this point, to be somewhat self contradictory. The test for the coolant temperature sensor is clearly a continuity check - above the "ON" point, there should be continuity between the two terminals of the sensor, below the "OFF" point, there should not be continuity. However, there is a section in the "FEATURES" section of the manual which identifies the sensor as a thermistor (a common type of analog temp sensor which has resistance that varies with temperature) and a chart showing what the resistance should be as the temp varies from about -30 to +80 C.

So now I'm confused - which is it? A switch like the test procedure implies or a thermistor like the FI operation description says? Are there two sensors? Perhaps you just adjusted the display calibration.

 

[Bounce]

Maybe dumb, but most of us wrote down the stock settings somewhere safe in case we wanted to go back to stock. Did you write the settings down?

iirc the instructions on how to do the bjm specifically state to write down the settings before starting. i think the process has you step through the system in read mode (to write down things) before going into edit mode. the explanation was so you can return everything to their oem settings if you don't like the results.

 

[ionbeam]

wallypiper writes:

...there is a sort of analog display on the dash for coolant temp, I studied the shop manual...It seems...to be somewhat self contradictory. The test for the coolant temperature sensor is clearly a continuity check - above the "ON" point, there should be continuity between the two terminals of the sensor, below the "OFF" point, there should not be continuity...there is a section in the "FEATURES"...which identifies the sensor as a thermistor...and a chart showing what the resistance should be as the temp varies from about -30 to +80 C.

You are correct, the FSM is confusing. The sensor is a thermistor. The ECU uses the resistance variance to determine fuel enrichment during warm-up. It also looks at the thermistor resistance MIN/MAX only to determine Radiator Fan ON/OFF switching.
The test you refer to is looking for "continuity YES/NO". In the setup for this test the FSM asks you to set your test meter to the X 1 ohm scale. This causes the cold readings to be off-scale (too high for the meter range selected) so it appears to be "continuity NO". As the sensor heats the resistance becomes lower (more conductive). By 100°C the thermistor resistance will have dropped to the point where it becomes within the selected meter range making it appear to be "continuity YES". This test ignores the entire middle resistance range of the thermistor. This test is adequate only for determining if the RADIATOR FAN TURNS ON/OFF. IMO, the FSM should have second Coolant Sensor test in the Fuel Injection section. In this test the FSM would guide you through Coolant Temperature Sensor testing to verify that the thermistor resistance varies linearly between 322 ohms @ 80°C and 15.5k ohms at -20°C .

 

[kaitsdad]

After installing the Barbarian Jumper Mod on my '06 and accessing the computer, I thought I was in the CO program but I may have been in the radiator fan turn-on temperature program. I think I accidently changed the number of degrees "C" at which the fans turn on. My bike seems to run hotter around town now (two bars higher - one past the half waymark) and the ambient air temp is currently 10-15 degrees cooler.Does anyone have a list of the stock settings now accessable by the Jumper mod? I looked in my US repair manual but I don't see a list of the normal settings. Maybe the Eurpoean manual states them?

Doug

DCioce,

Following the mod on my 06, I thought I noticed it running a bit hotter - but I've since come to realize that I was simply more sensitive to the temperature guage, as I was watching closer -

The fans kick on when the temp guage shows 7 bars. I've never seen it higher.

Unless the radiator is steaming, you are ok. I would not worry about it.

Go out and ride !!

 

[DCioce]

Strange.After considering that there is a sort of analog display on the dash for coolant temp, I studied the shop manual some more. It seems, at this point, to be somewhat self contradictory. The test for the coolant temperature sensor is clearly a continuity check - above the "ON" point, there should be continuity between the two terminals of the sensor, below the "OFF" point, there should not be continuity. However, there is a section in the "FEATURES" section of the manual which identifies the sensor as a thermistor (a common type of analog temp sensor which has resistance that varies with temperature) and a chart showing what the resistance should be as the temp varies from about -30 to +80 C.

So now I'm confused - which is it? A switch like the test procedure implies or a thermistor like the FI operation description says? Are there two sensors? Perhaps you just adjusted the display calibration.

Strange.

After considering that there is a sort of analog display on the dash for coolant temp, I studied the shop manual some more. It seems, at this point, to be somewhat self contradictory. The test for the coolant temperature sensor is clearly a continuity check - above the "ON" point, there should be continuity between the two terminals of the sensor, below the "OFF" point, there should not be continuity. However, there is a section in the "FEATURES" section of the manual which identifies the sensor as a thermistor (a common type of analog temp sensor which has resistance that varies with temperature) and a chart showing what the resistance should be as the temp varies from about -30 to +80 C.

So now I'm confused - which is it? A switch like the test procedure implies or a thermistor like the FI operation description says? Are there two sensors? Perhaps you just adjusted the display calibration.

Since it is a termister which is a type of variable resister controlled by fluctuations in temperature, maybe it varies the speed of the fan rather than just runs it on and off?

 

[chornbe]

Strange.After considering that there is a sort of analog display on the dash for coolant temp, I studied the shop manual some more. It seems, at this point, to be somewhat self contradictory. The test for the coolant temperature sensor is clearly a continuity check - above the "ON" point, there should be continuity between the two terminals of the sensor, below the "OFF" point, there should not be continuity. However, there is a section in the "FEATURES" section of the manual which identifies the sensor as a thermistor (a common type of analog temp sensor which has resistance that varies with temperature) and a chart showing what the resistance should be as the temp varies from about -30 to +80 C.

So now I'm confused - which is it? A switch like the test procedure implies or a thermistor like the FI operation description says? Are there two sensors? Perhaps you just adjusted the display calibration.

Perhaps there are two; one for the display (variable sensor) and one for the fan (switch).

 

[wallypiper]

Since it is a termister which is a type of variable resister controlled by fluctuations in temperature, maybe it varies the speed of the fan rather than just runs it on and off?

No, the fan is definitely single speed and control is on/off.

Perhaps there are two; one for the display (variable sensor) and one for the fan (switch).

No, there is only one. It is identified by reference number on the wiring diagram in both the fuel injection section and the cooling system section of the manual and is clearly the same sensor.

ionbeam is most probably right but it seems to be a very special device. The range of resistance over the temperature range he quotes from the chart is huge but the range required to accomplish the switching at 100 and 105 is very small. It is not your garden variety thermistor.

 

[ionbeam]

There is only one Coolant Temperature Sensor, there are several other unrelated temperature sensors. The radiator fan is powered through a relay so there is no variable speed control. The radiator fan relay is turned on/off by the ECU -- it turns the fan on at 105°C and turns the fan off at 100°C. The bar graph is controlled by the ECU reading the thermistor in the temperature sensor.

The ECU supplies a reference voltage to the thermistor. When the thermistor is at max resistance the voltage will be around +5VDC indicating a temperature of -20°C or colder. As the sensor warms up the resistance goes down. At 80°C (322 ohms) the ECU ends the cold enrichment fuel injection. At 105°C the thermistor is almost 0 ohms (completely conductive) resulting in nearly 0 volts, at this point the ECU turns on the relay to the radiator fan.

The ECU takes the varying DC voltage from the thermistor and performs an Analog to Digital conversion (A/D converter). Unlike the analog voltage, the digital signal is digestible by the ECU and that is the value the ECU uses to control the bar graph on the display. The digital signal is also what the ECU uses to make the radiator fan on/off decision.

Edited: I see that wallypiper was posting while I was typing The thermistor is slightly non linear at both the high resistance and low resistance ends. This is very common for garden variety thermistors and actually presents heart-burn for engineers that need a true linear thermal response from a cheap device. Even a simple 12 bit A/D converter can easily resolve the small resistance changes.