Problem with throttle on 08 FJR

[nik.hisham]

Hi all,

Here's the problem statement:

If I start the engine, hold down the clutch, put it in first, and put down the kick stand, the engine goes out. That is expected behavior. But here is where I have a problem. If I put her back in N, raise the kick stand, and restart, the moment I twist the throttle to rev the engine, the engine dies on me. Even if I hold the clutch completely down, put it in first, and twist the throttle to rev the engine, it dies as well.

This doesn't happen all the time. I've had the bike for just over a month, and its happened to me about 5 or 6 times already, before and after the first service. I didn't mention it during the service as it only happened once at the time and by service time, I'd completely forgotten about it.

I've looked around on the forum but could not find any information on this. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any clue on where the trouble lies and is this going to be an expensive fix? I have a feeling it has to do with contacts in the kick stand that is not working properly - or something like that.

Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Nik

 

[FJRless]

It sounds more like an engine management issue to me. Assuming it's under a year old it will be covered by warranty. I would make a call to the distributor of Yamaha motorcycles in your country and document the issue with them. It may be an occurrence they've heard of and can help the dealer address. Possibly as a 'goodwill' gesture if your bike is out of warranty.

 

[bramfrank]

Once the engine is running the only way to cause it to shut down aside from stalling it out is to either engage the kill switch, turn off the ignition or extend the stand with the bike in gear - you might have a corroded sidestand switch or the neutral sensor might be bad, or the kill switch intermittent or you could have an ignition switch problem or one related to the connections to those sensors and switches. There is also the dreaded corroded spider ground problem.

But let's start with the simplest stuff

You don't say if this is with a cold engine or a warm one - and there is a throttle advance system that operates on the principle of a device that advances the throttle until a wax plug in the actuator melts as the engine warms. It may not be very effective in warmer climates like what you have in Malaysia. You can tell it works properly if the engine is turning about 1700-2000 rpm when cold and it drops to normal idle speed when the temperature indicator rises to the point where one bar is showing on the display.

If the system doesn't work for you, then you may want to simply wait until you have one bar showing before trying to twist the throttle - twisting the throttle is generally not recommended until the engine is warm, in any case.

Or could this simply be your perception of the result of a too low idle speed setting, where the engine is spinning too slowly and it bogs down when you twist the grip?

Engine idle speed is easy to adjust and should be set for between 1,000 and 1,100 rpm when fully warmed up (toward the higher end of the range is better).

 

[SCRider]

Make sure your idle speed is set between 1000 and 1100 RPM after the engine is warmed up. There have been many reports of Gen IIs stalling if the idle speed is set too low.

 

[TCMike]

Bumping the idle up worked for me.

 

[Big-D]

It seems the FJR's are temperamental little ladies. They enjoy being well warmed up before you start bliping the throttle. Like mentioned prior, bump your idle up from 1000 to 1100 and let her warm up a bit and things should be much better. I know it can be disappointing as you are making a left turn, slowing down and blip the thottle only to have her die on ya. It seems to be worse when the bike it new also.

Last month after returning from our DVD DAZE, I installed a new set of iridium plugs and adjusted my throttle bodies according to Warchild's instructions on FJRTech.com. Because I prefer to wrench my own stuff, I ordered the Motion Pro Carb (Throttle Body) Sync calibration gauge and now preform these tasks myself. Afterward, my FJR now runs like a real champ. I've heard both good results and bad from the iridium plugs, but after changing the plugs and sync'in the throttle bodies, I can blip all I want and she responds like one would expect. Seems to accelerate much better also. I've have to wait until March to see if I've gained or lost any mpg or not.

OH, performing these two tasks are really easy. I took my time, listening to some music in the garage, wife and daughter were visiting the shopping mall, I was finished in no time at all. I did follow the instructions to a "T" pretty much though, including using thin wire to secure the little clips to protect from being lost. There were a couple differences on my '08 compared to the '03 (I think) that Warchild's instructions covered, but nothing major.

I heard say the charge for the throttle bodies adjusted is somewhere around $400, not including plugs or any parts that may or may not be needed. So the gauge paid for itself several times over on the first adjustment. And I can now use it on my other bike also. A Win/Win situation!!

 

[nik.hisham]

Hi,

Thanks for all your responses.

Just to fill in some gaps - this has happened regardless of whether the engine was still cold or already warm. The last time it happened, I already had 4 bars on the engine temp.

On the engine idle rpm, I am not sure. I'll have to check that when I get home from work this evening.

I'm going to be bringing the bike in to the dealer to have it looked at, but only after my trip next weekend. I think it should be covered under warranty as the bike is only a month old.

I'll be back on here with updates.

Nik.

 

[Zorlac]

"I'm going to be bringing the bike in to the dealer to have it looked at,"

You might want to clear the tip over code from the ECU memory if it was set during the unfortunate "gate closing event" just in case your dealer is the nosy type and gives you a hard time.

Search the forum for reading & clearing the ECU diagnostic codes.

 

[wfooshee]

Early GenIIs had a problem restarting if they were shut down before warming up, but that doesn't sound like your issue. You can start it, just not give it gas.

I vote idle too low.

Let us know what your cold idle is, and after it warms up.

 

[nik.hisham]

Ok. Just got home and started the bike and here are the findings:

Idle RPM | Temp

~1300 0 Bar

~1000 1 Bar

~900 2 Bar

~800 3 Bar

~800 4 Bar

So I guess that this means the idle speed is too low?

Oh, and Zorlac, thanks for the tip on clearing the ECU code. Unfortunately, I've already told the dealer about the gate closing incident. But it'll be useful for next time.

 

[HaulinAshe]

So I guess that this means the idle speed is too low?

Yes.

 

[Fred W]

Agreed. Set the idle speed to 1100 (not 1000 even though that is "in spec").

The cold start wax motor previously described works a little bit differently on 2nd gens, most likely in order to accommodate the AE auto-clutches. This results in a much smaller bump up in rpm when cold for 2nd gens. When I first start my 1st gen it idles at 2000 rpm and (when it is properly adjusted) has a normal operating temp idle of 1100 rpm. When you bump your warm idle up you will still only have a 1300 rpm cold idle. That means you may still have some drive-ability issues when cold.

There was a big discussion on these wax motors a while ago. It appears that the circuit could be adjusted to give you a 1st gen cold idle speed, which would be a good thing IMO on an "A", but not a good idea on an AE as the clutch may decide to engage a bit prematurely.

 

[mcatrophy]

...This results in a much smaller bump up in rpm when cold for 2nd gens.

...

'Cept mine, which cold idles around 1800-2000. Clutch engagement and disengagement speeds are also raised during this time to much higher levels than normal. My warm idle is set to about 900 (yes, I know, everyone says it should be 1000-1100, but it works for me).

[edit]

Ok, who's a smart-****? Manouvering the bike in my drive this morning, I was pulling gently on the throttle, just enough to start to engage the clutch. Snapped the throttle shut, the engine cut.

Two bars on the temperature gauge, ambient about 2C (35F).

Perhaps I do need to up my idle speed a tad?

[/edit]

 

[Gilf Hunter]

Hi all,
Here's the problem statement:

If I start the engine, hold down the clutch, put it in first, and put down the kick stand, the engine goes out. That is expected behavior. But here is where I have a problem. If I put her back in N, raise the kick stand, and restart, the moment I twist the throttle to rev the engine, the engine dies on me. Even if I hold the clutch completely down, put it in first, and twist the throttle to rev the engine, it dies as well.

This doesn't happen all the time. I've had the bike for just over a month, and its happened to me about 5 or 6 times already, before and after the first service. I didn't mention it during the service as it only happened once at the time and by service time, I'd completely forgotten about it.

I've looked around on the forum but could not find any information on this. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any clue on where the trouble lies and is this going to be an expensive fix? I have a feeling it has to do with contacts in the kick stand that is not working properly - or something like that.

Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Nik

Nik,

I also have an 08 and have had the same issue occassionally. I purchased the bike new last year. I agree with BramFrank. I think the issue might exist with something as simple as the idle speed and twisting the throttle bogs the engine down when it's cold. It should be noted, however, that the engine has also killed when I cracked the throttle open when the engine was warm. Oh wait, I was in 1st gear and let out too quick on the clutch also In all seriousness, the cold engine throttle twist is true...same issue.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Well... How's it running now??? :dribble:

 

[nik.hisham]

Well... How's it running now??? :dribble:

Bluesman,

Not sure if you're asking me or Gilf Hunter. In case you were asking me, I've not sent the bike in to adjust the idle rpm and I'm not much of a DIY guy to do it myself. I'm only planning to send it in after my ride this weekend. Will come back with updates after that's done.

 

[Fred W]

Nik,

There is a small knob on the right side (look up under the tank) to adjust your idle. This is meant as a user adjustment. Just adjust it when the bike is fully warmed up using the bike's tachometer.

 

[mcatrophy]

QUOTE (Fred W @ Feb 24 2010, 12:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nik,

There is a small knob on the right side (look up under the tank) to adjust your idle. This is meant as a user adjustment. Just adjust it when the bike is fully warmed up using the bike's tachometer.

Just here:

(Click on image for larger view)



Blow-up (pictorial type):

 

[nik.hisham]

Thanks guys. I'm off to work (in the car) so I'll only be able to try it out this evening when I get back. But I did take a look just now and I found it. Will give an update after I make the adjustment.

Nik.