Problems after "Pair Cover Sets" installed

[antirustbug]

Need some advice on why after I just installed the Pair Cover Sets. Bike starts up and idles fine, but when I hit the throttle the bike Acts like its starving for fuel and hesitates for a long time.

On the plus side of things, no popping sounds and when I take it easy, I'm getting like 50+ MPG

 

[v65]

Did you plug off the line going into the airbox?

 

[antirustbug]

Did you plug off the line going into the airbox?

Yes I did.

One more thing is that I did take a hose and clean off the top of the engine, but I did ride it a mile or two after that, so i would think any water that would or could of caused the problem would of dry-ed up.

 

[v65]

Did you plug off the line going into the airbox?

Yes I did.

One more thing is that I did take a hose and clean off the top of the engine, but I did ride it a mile or two after that, so i would think any water that would or could of caused the problem would of dry-ed up.

OK, just checking for the obvious stuff. Haven't followed the thread on these block off plates, I assume you used some sort of make a gasket goop to install them?

There are some connectors on top of the motor that are not watertight, in particuler the red and white connectors for the ignition switch come to mind. If you haven't done this I would disconnect them dry 'em out and add a generous amount of dielectric grease. Even without the hose these two connectors are exposed - you can see them from the front of the bike underneath the fairing if you look closely.

Might also be time to pull some plug wires and make sure everything is dry.

 

[antirustbug]

Did you plug off the line going into the airbox?

Yes I did.

One more thing is that I did take a hose and clean off the top of the engine, but I did ride it a mile or two after that, so i would think any water that would or could of caused the problem would of dry-ed up.

OK, just checking for the obvious stuff. Haven't followed the thread on these block off plates, I assume you used some sort of make a gasket goop to install them?

There are some connectors on top of the motor that are not watertight, in particuler the red and white connectors for the ignition switch come to mind. If you haven't done this I would disconnect them dry 'em out and add a generous amount of dielectric grease. Even without the hose these two connectors are exposed - you can see them from the front of the bike underneath the fairing if you look closely.

Might also be time to pull some plug wires and make sure everything is dry.

OK thanks, I will have to what till tomorrow to take it apart again. I will take a look at the connectors/obvious stuff, as for gasket goop, there was know goop or gasket on the removal so none was installed.

 

[RadioHowie]

Ya might want to consider retitling the thread

"Problems after 'Applying Copious Amounts of Water To My Spark Plug Boots and ECU/Ignition Connectors'"

:blink: :dribble: :blink: :dribble: :blink:

 

[v65]

I will take a look at the connectors/obvious stuff, as for gasket goop, there was know goop or gasket on the removal so none was installed.

Well it shouldn't effect driveability, but metal to metal will not be air tight, water tight, or pretty much anything tight. I applied a bead of permatex around mine when I installed them. IIRC the originals have some form of gasket on them.

Anyways, my guess is that your issue is with the water.

 

[johnny80s]

There was no gasket material or anything on the original PAIRS when I took mine off so I put the new ones in without any sealer.

I also think the water is the cause.

 

[UselessPickles]

I will take a look at the connectors/obvious stuff, as for gasket goop, there was know goop or gasket on the removal so none was installed.

Well it shouldn't effect driveability, but metal to metal will not be air tight, water tight, or pretty much anything tight. I applied a bead of permatex around mine when I installed them. IIRC the originals have some form of gasket on them.

Anyways, my guess is that your issue is with the water.

The original parts that are replaced by the PAIR covers include reed valve assemblies that have a rubber gasket. You should have kept the reed valves in place to make use of their gaskets. Mine were stuck to the parts that were removed, but were easily pried off with a small flat-blade screwdriver.

 

[Wicked Webby]

Hope you get them gremlins figured out.

WW

 

[johnny80s]

I will take a look at the connectors/obvious stuff, as for gasket goop, there was know goop or gasket on the removal so none was installed.

Well it shouldn't effect driveability, but metal to metal will not be air tight, water tight, or pretty much anything tight. I applied a bead of permatex around mine when I installed them. IIRC the originals have some form of gasket on them.

Anyways, my guess is that your issue is with the water.

The original parts that are replaced by the PAIR covers include reed valve assemblies that have a rubber gasket. You should have kept the reed valves in place to make use of their gaskets. Mine were stuck to the parts that were removed, but were easily pried off with a small flat-blade screwdriver.

Mine must have been stuck to the head. Nothing came off on the old PAIR covers. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[Slow2]

I will take a look at the connectors/obvious stuff, as for gasket goop, there was know goop or gasket on the removal so none was installed.

Well it shouldn't effect driveability, but metal to metal will not be air tight, water tight, or pretty much anything tight. I applied a bead of permatex around mine when I installed them. IIRC the originals have some form of gasket on them.

Anyways, my guess is that your issue is with the water.

The original parts that are replaced by the PAIR covers include reed valve assemblies that have a rubber gasket. You should have kept the reed valves in place to make use of their gaskets. Mine were stuck to the parts that were removed, but were easily pried off with a small flat-blade screwdriver.

Mine must have been stuck to the head. Nothing came off on the old PAIR covers. Thanks for clarifying.

Mine were stuck to the head also with gaskets in place. Left them there. Wish all this rain would stop. Only have 40 or so miles with all the mods, PCIII, Unifliter, PAIR gone, Beowulf slip ons. Would love to get out and hammer it a little.

Ed

 

[08FJR4ME]

Ya might want to consider retitling the thread
"Problems after 'Applying Copious Amounts of Water To My Spark Plug Boots and ECU/Ignition Connectors'"

:blink: :dribble: :blink: :dribble: :blink:

+1

I have sold quite a few sets and this is the only issue sofar. Spraying the engine with water probably is the cause. JMO.

I hope you get it straightened out. Good luck

 

[antirustbug]

Well I have found the problem, I had some how twisted the fuel line under the tank when putting it all back together again, causing it to starve when hitting the throttle, Life is good now. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Now I did pick up some High-Temp permatex, so I will be working on making sure the plates have a good seal......I wonder what can of worms I can open up next, maybe its still dirty and I need to move up from the garden hose to the 2400 psi powerspayer......

Just Kidding.

 

[v65]

Well I have found the problem, I had some how twisted the fuel line under the tank when putting it all back together again, causing it to starve when hitting the throttle, Life is good now. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
Now I did pick up some High-Temp permatex, so I will be working on making sure the plates have a good seal......I wonder what can of worms I can open up next, maybe its still dirty and I need to move up from the garden hose to the 2400 psi powerspayer......

Just Kidding.

As UP mentioned, if you left the reed valves in you don't need the permatex, but now that you have it you can yank them. The weight savings will turn your FJR into a wheelying beast! :lol:

 

[RadioHowie]

As UP mentioned, if you left the reed valves in you don't need the permatex, but now that you have it you can yank them. The weight savings will turn your FJR into a wheelying beast! :lol:

Really shouldn't pull the reed valves. Let them do their job, i.e., NOT letting blazingly hot exhaust gas through to cook your valve cover and anything else touching it, like plug caps and wires, electrical connections, cylinder ID sensor, valve cover gasket, etc.

While I agree pulling the original PAIR covers and replacing them with custom machined plates is a very neat, clean and elegant solution, pulling out the reed valves is a no-no.

 

[v65]

Really shouldn't pull the reed valves.

Mea maxima culpa. I don't agree with everything you said, the blockoff plates are there for a reason, however you will be exposing the underside of the plates to some high temperatures. I'm not convinced there will be any damage from it, BUT, I went to find my reed valves to get a pic of them and they are not with the rest of the stuff I pulled off. The only conclusion I can draw is that I must have left them in, I was sure that I had pulled them. I am way to young for my memory to be going to crap like this, might be time to see a doctor.

 

[RadioHowie]

I don't agree with everything you said

That's okay....I'm not here to be agreed with.

Weaseldik!

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Now I did pick up some High-Temp permatex, so I will be working on making sure the plates have a good seal...

That shouldn't be necessary. Your gaskets are probably fine.

If you're going to pull the cover plates, get the camera out and take a shot of what you find. Then, post the photo here for the next guy. The only photo I remember seeing was really out of focus. I didn't take any photos, because I was more concerned with getting the fit of the PAIR covers right and double checking my dimensions.