Problems with Givi SR357 install.

[spike747]

I'm fitting the Givi SR357 kit to my 2009, but the fitment doesn't seem right. When I rest the rear part of the rack on the three rear spacers (which I measured to be 31 mm and 21 mm like the instructions say), the front part of the rack is about 1/2" over the two front bolt holes on the bike. I even torqued the rear three bolts down to make sure all was tight and still there is about a 1/2" of gap. If I torque down the 2 front bolts, then I'm putting alot of stress on my subframe.

Has anyone else seen this? I could see Givi bending the rack so that there was a small amount of space between the rack and the two front mounting points due to the rubber piece that needs to be put in. But a 1/2" is way too much. If I torque that down I'll be putting alot of stress on the subframe. All I can see at this point is bending the rack to make it fit. I thought about adding washers to the three rear spacers, but I don't believe the holes will line up then. And adding washers between the two front bolt holes and the front givi mounts will have the givi rack too high and contacting the seat.

I think Givi didn't bend the rack right. It wouldn't surprise me with all the problems I've had with other Givi stuff I bought this year. Without a doubt of the $4k I've spent on farkles, the Givi stuff has been the biggest shit.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else has seen this.

Thanks.

 

[juniorfjr]

I am feeling your pain. I had some similar problems with my 05. While it fit the bike pretty well, the tabs that the monokey plate bolts to were welded less than square. I was able to fix mine by elongating some holes.

You might make sure it is for your second gen and not an old one like mine. Good luck.

 

[PanAmerican]

Maybe this might help ...

https://journal.drfaulken.com/installing-a-givi-top-rack-on-a-2009-yamaha-fjr1300a/

But a dumb question. Why aren't you using the Givi E228 rack mount?

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/givi-e228-e228m-topcase-rack-fjr1300-06-10

 

[spike747]

Maybe this might help ...

https://journal.drfaulken.com/installing-a-givi-top-rack-on-a-2009-yamaha-fjr1300a/

I actually did read this already. He doesn't mention anything about alignment issues on his install like I'm having.

 

[spike747]

I finally found someone else with this problem. This is exactly the problem I have. I think the tension on the sub frame when I force all the bolts in is not good. Its way too much. I think I'll just try bending the rack a bit.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=123362&st=0

 

[VTFJR13]

I finally found someone else with this problem. This is exactly the problem I have. I think the tension on the sub frame when I force all the bolts in is not good. Its way too much. I think I'll just try bending the rack a bit.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=123362&st=0

I had the same problem with mine. I don't know if the gap was a 1/2" or not but I just put a couple washers under the seat bolts to make up for the gap and called it a day. I have been running it like that for three years now with no problems.

 

[SGBennett]

Maybe this might help ...

https://journal.drfaulken.com/installing-a-givi-top-rack-on-a-2009-yamaha-fjr1300a/

But a dumb question. Why aren't you using the Givi E228 rack mount?

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/givi-e228-e228m-topcase-rack-fjr1300-06-10

I don't think it's a dumb question at all. I have the Givi E228 rack mount, and it bothers me to see the two spacers on the tail hanging halfway over the edge. That's why I'm seriously considering the SR357 kit, because the weight will be on Givi's product instead of the Yamaha product. Before doing anything with the SR357 kit after receiving it, though, I'll take it to a local shop to have it powder coated or painted silver to match the color of my bike.

What concerns me about the SR357 kit is the extra stress being placed on the subframe... unless I'm just paranoid.

 

[snackbauer]

Just mounted my son's Givi V46 tech with SR357 rack last night. We noticed the same thing, maybe not quite a half inch though. However, we snugged the 2 forward screws first, then the middle 2. There was a slight gap between the rack and the last spacer. We filled the gap with a couple washers then tightened all screws. Nothing seemed to be stressed, no cracking or popping anyway.

 

[PanAmerican]

Maybe this might help ...

https://journal.drfaulken.com/installing-a-givi-top-rack-on-a-2009-yamaha-fjr1300a/

But a dumb question. Why aren't you using the Givi E228 rack mount?

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/givi-e228-e228m-topcase-rack-fjr1300-06-10

I don't think it's a dumb question at all. I have the Givi E228 rack mount, and it bothers me to see the two spacers on the tail hanging halfway over the edge. That's why I'm seriously considering the SR357 kit, because the weight will be on Givi's product instead of the Yamaha product. Before doing anything with the SR357 kit after receiving it, though, I'll take it to a local shop to have it powder coated or painted silver to match the color of my bike.

What concerns me about the SR357 kit is the extra stress being placed on the subframe... unless I'm just paranoid.

The rack plate attaches to the bike wth three bolts. From a mechanical engineering viewpoint that would be more than enough to hold any weight recommended by Yamaha. The plastic E55 case would give way before the E228 would. The SAE has the tensile strength of each of the M8 x 50 mm bolts at over 2500 lbf.

Hence the reson for my question.

 

[SLK50]

The problem isn't the plate, bolts or case. It's the FJR's subframe

everything attaches to. The weakest link in the chain and known

by a few to fail. The Givi rack cantilevers, transfering some of the load

back further into the frame. The result is quite stout.

 

[PanAmerican]

The problem isn't the plate, bolts or case. It's the FJR's subframe

everything attaches to. The weakest link in the chain and known

by a few to fail. The Givi rack cantilevers, transfering some of the load

back further into the frame. The result is quite stout.

But the SR357 rack bolts to the same holes and the stock rack, right? It carries the same loads, right? Whether the E228 rack is cantilevered 5 inches or not the loads on the sub frame bolts would be the same for both racks. So statically I can't see where it makes any difference.

Maybe I'm just not understading what you'r're saying. I get thick every once in a while.

 

[SLK50]

The stock rack is plastic and poorly suited to handle

the rotational forces created by a top case. Those forces

are transferred to the very end of the subframe.

The SR357 is inflexible metal and transfers those same

loads about a foot further into the frame reducing the

rotational loads ( torque ) at the end of the subframe

exponentially.

I have ridden thousands of miles with a top case too

heavy to carry on my SR357 without a problem.

I have, on occasion, raised the rear of my bike for

servicing via the SR357. Try that with the plastic rack.

 

[PanAmerican]

The stock rack is plastic and poorly suited to handle

the rotational forces created by a top case. Those forces

are transferred to the very end of the subframe.

The SR357 is inflexible metal and transfers those same

loads about a foot further into the frame reducing the

rotational loads ( torque ) at the end of the subframe

exponentially.

I have ridden thousands of miles with a top case too

heavy to carry on my SR357 without a problem.

I have, on occasion, raised the rear of my bike for

servicing via the SR357. Try that with the plastic rack.

Are you sure it's made of plastic? The part number for the "grab bar" is 3P6-24773-00-P6 and when I look at the service manual it is bolted to the bike with two bolts torqued to 21Nm (15 ft-lbf). That would crush most plastics. If I were to venture a guess I would say it's plastic coated aluminum. I look at the part on my bike, and I've been around plastic injection molding machines for many years, and that doesn't look like a plastic molded part. It's too rigid for it's thickness to be plastic. But I could be wrong.

Where did you hear that it's plastic?

PS

I just went into my garage and felt the grab bar. It's just as cold as the other metal bits. All the plastic parts are warmer to the touch. That thermal conductivity is a big clue that it's not plastic.

 

[SLK50]

I have seen pictures of broken ones.

Usually from tie-downs attached to passenger

grab handles.

 

[Queensland Ken]

Trust me, it's plastic.

Where they break is only approx 1.5mm thick.(and I've seen pics of guys lifting the bike off the grab rail)

If you like your rear sub frame, I wouldn't go past a SR357.

The third bolt doesn't attach to the sub frame, it only holds up the rear mud guard.

My story on the Aussie Forum

 

[pjleduc]

I installed mine this weekend. I remember noticing a little space under the cross bar but I figured it was due to the rubber pieces that you had to put on. Then I put the two bolts in and tightened them until they were just short of finger tight. There didn't seen to be any extra space between the rack and the three standoffs in the back, and I went ahead and put in the other three bolts and tightened everything up. Maybe yours wasn't bent properly at the factory.

 

[SkooterG]

Same issue here. Just received my SR357 rack for my 09 FJR and am very disappointed by the huge gap. Guess I'll go the washer route for the rear most mounting location though I am not very happy about it.

Crappy Givi quality control? Variances in the FJR's rear subframe?

 

[K Rider]

Same issue here. Just received my SR357 rack for my 09 FJR and am very disappointed by the huge gap. Guess I'll go the washer route for the rear most mounting location though I am not very happy about it.

Crappy Givi quality control? Variances in the FJR's rear subframe?

Mine had a gap too. I don't remember if I started with the front or back but I got the bolts started, pushed down a little and started the other bolts then tightened them up together. Came down nicely without any problems.

 

[mvette]

I had the exact problem with mine. I returned it to the vendor and they sent me another one. It was the same way. I was able to start all bolts like other folks did, but I was afraid to pull them all the way down also. I had three washers about one eight inch thick and put them under the three rear bolts and drew it down. Been working fine without the worry of too much tension on the subframe. I think Givi designed it this way on purpose like some have said, but for me this was too much tension when trying to pull those bolts down without spacers, I just was waiting for something to go POW! I had just experienced the broken stock grabrail like on the previous pictures. I was so happy after that happened that my subframe had not been damaged yet I was not taking any chances.