Question about wiring Gerbing gear

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How do you, or would you wire your heated gear from battery to heat controller?

  • From cigerette lighter within wired tank bag

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Flush Fused outlet mounted next to glove box (or other side)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Flush Fused outlet mounted under either thigh on side panel

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Direct (fused) battery harness into controller (from under seat)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I'm a fair weather rider and don't know what heated gear is.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I'm a man's man and don't need no stinkin heat

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0

SPORT

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Getting ready to order heated gear and am trying to find the easiest way to wire my heated gear.

I will be using a dual pot controller clipped on jacket for heated socks and gloves (no need for anything else). I currently have Autocom wire from under the left side of riders seat to the helmet. My GPS is powered via a cigerrette lighter within a wired Marsee Tank bag. The cigerette lighter is a 3 way plug.

It would seem easier to just add another cigerette plug from the tank bag to the Gerbing heat controller, but would like some experienced thoughts before making that decision.

Thanks in advance.

Sport

 
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I had a Powerlet mounted on the plate beneath the glove box, but went with a direct harness when I added heated grips.

 
Good morning Jerry

I also have the 2-knob portable controller. I have both a Gerbing style and Powerlet/BMW style plug just above and outboard of the right headlight adjuster knob, running off a fuse.

There is JUST enough room in the little triangular flat immediately above the knob to put a Radio Shack size N panel-mounted socket that the Gerbing-style plug for the controller can plug into. This also places the opening down slightly so water doesn't collect in it to short it out. A little less than 2" outboard and between subframe members is JUST enough room for the Powerlet flush plug.

I made a small sub-panel of .08 aluminum that comes up off the forward 2 tank bolts and put the heavy velcro on the top and bottom. The controller stays on the bottom then gets removed in summer, which is when you would've seen it on our ice cream run. Just the knobs show. The wires to my jacket run under the left seam of the tank, but I needed to get the extra 36" extensions for an extra $5 each from the bottom of Gerbings accessories page. On the top surface of the sub-panel is velcro that the Garmin Nuvi sits on. I don't have the photo web-site any more or I'd post a photo.

Bob

 
I voted "Flush Fused outlet mounted next to glove box"

BUT....I mounted a dual star heat troller through the fairing just above my left knee. It's wired through my auxiliary fuse box and the leads/junction box is under my seat. I simply uncoil the leads and bring them out between my seat and tank when I'm using the liner and gloves.

It's an idea I copied from OCfjr and it works for me.

 
Since you haven't ordered yet, why not go with a dual mounted heat-troller?

I have dual powerlet sockets in the 'D' panel on the throttle side, (both fused, one switched power, (not used for heat-troller)), but the heat-troller controls are on the 'A' panel on the clutch side and the mounted style heat-troller itself is under the back end of the fuel tank with the leads for the jacket coming out loose from under the seat.

I have CO-AX connectors on my Gerbings. The reason I run the plugs out from under the nose of the seat is multi-fold.

1) I've seen too many people with cig lighter or power port connections with flapping cords, (or dangling ones when they forgot to plug in!). And forget about trying to plug those in when the outlet is under and behind you once riding. Dragging cords suck, and present a hazard. Never mind they often won't plug in after dragging on the road a bit. :(

2) I can tuck the cords back under the seat most of the year and they are protected and out of the way.

3) I can pull just one out if I don't need the gloves. (jacket is wired dual circuit. Do this if you ever might consider gloves too)

4) No worries about water intrusion. The cords are in a protected area. Even loose and unplugged in the rain, I've had no issue with water in 100k+.

5) I can easily reach the plugs while riding, and if need be, plug in the cord I forgot to plug in while riding. (one handed)

6) With this set up, you can simply step off the bike and walk away and the plugs will unplug easily w/o damage or strain. The seat holds the cords with some med. tension and acts as a natural strain relief. The co-ax plugs are molded onto the cords and won't pull out or I wouldn't do this. I used to unplug, then dismount, but after a while I stopped worrying about it and now just dismount, plugs pulling free as I do so. Note: I WOULD NOT do this with SAE plugs!!

7) I can still stand up on the pegs w/o unplugging. This is important to me and this location allows the shortest amount of cords that will still allow this. In fact, very short is long enough. I only have perhaps 3-4" of cord sticking out.

Understand that this method will work with the mounted controller like I have, or with the portable and just the power lead cord(s) coming out at the nose of the seat. Clean and simple too. Hope that helps.

 
Since you haven't ordered yet, why not go with a dual mounted heat-troller?
Aren't all Gerbing Co-Ax connectors?

I've been slowly building my arsenol and purchased a Gerbing dual controller last year. So, I have a portable controller. My list of needs is as follows:

  1. Heated Socks w/harness
  2. Classic Heated gloves w/harness
  3. Belt clip leather pouch for the Dual heat controller
  4. Battery harness

I like your idea of hardwiring a fuse harness and lead it to the front portion of the seat. Because I already have the portable heat troller, I'll only need a single power line coming from the front of the seat. This may also work well with the Autocom plug as well. However, the reason I have the Autocom coming from the left side of the seat is to easily stow the plug out of sight between the rider's and pillion's seat. Nevertheless, coming off the front is still a viable option.

Thanks again

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Aren't all Gerbing Co-Ax connectors?
Current versions are. Older ones used SAE plugs.

I've been slowly building my arsenol and purchased a Gerbing dual controller last year. So, I have a portable controller.
I like your idea of hardwiring a fuse harness and lead it to the front portion of the seat. Because I already have the portable heat troller, I'll only need a single power line coming from the front of the seat. This may also work well with the Autocom plug as well. However, the reason I have the Autocom coming from the left side of the seat is to easily stow the plug out of sight between the rider's and pillion's seat. Nevertheless, coming off the front is still a viable option.

Thanks again
Glad to help. FYI - You can send your jacket back to Gerbing and they will re-wire it to dual circuit for cheap if you didn't order it that way. IIRC, it cost me $20. Turn around was quick, but I don't think I sent it in during the cold season. ^_^ Really nice to be able to turn the gloves up and leave the jacket low and comfy. I always seem to need more glove heat than liner heat.

 
FYI - You can send your jacket back to Gerbing and they will re-wire it to dual circuit for cheap if you didn't order it that way. IIRC, it cost me $20. Turn around was quick, but I don't think I sent it in during the cold season. ^_^ Really nice to be able to turn the gloves up and leave the jacket low and comfy. I always seem to need more glove heat than liner heat.
Yeah, what he said. This is how mine is, also using dual MOUNTED controller, and it's very nice to vary the temps on the gloves and jacket liner.

 
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