Race Tech Gold Valve and spring installation.

[HaulinAshe]

I guess no takers for my question about the possibly required 1.0mm bleed hole... Regardless, I came to the conclusion that since the valve is preassembled, that additional drilling wasn't necessary. If anybody knows or finds out differently, please let me know... I've completely reassembled my forks and reinstalled them on the bike with the RT kit and found the overall process quite painless with thanks mostly to these instructions! Thanks a lot to Scoobyvroom!

There's no other drilling required. Only the one end of each dampening rod for the larger RT Rebound Control Needle must be drilled.

Sorry I missed your earlier question. For anyone else with questions, please PM me or start a separate thread. I don't typically get into these massively long threads because they are so difficult to follow.

 

[USMC CWO]

I just had a serious front suspension problem with my recently installed Race Tech springs. After installing the springs, I decided to go on a test ride to Laughlin, NV. After about 400 miles I was returning to Yuma when my front suspension completely collapsed. I didn't hit a pothole or large bump. After trailering my bike home and taking the forks apart, I found that both springs had somehow slid down over the inner cartridge. I had to use bailing wire and brute force to get the springs off. So, after a little research, I found a blurb in Race Tech's directions about installing washers on both ends of the fork spring. I also broke out my calipers and noticed the ID of one end of the spring is about 0.100" larger than the other end of the spring. Has this happened to anyone else? Do I need washers on both ends of the springs? I only got spacers with my springs but no washers. I'm not putting my forks together until I figure this out.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I just had a serious front suspension problem with my recently installed Race Tech springs. After installing the springs, I decided to go on a test ride to Laughlin, NV. After about 400 miles I was returning to Yuma when my front suspension completely collapsed. I didn't hit a pothole or large bump. After trailering my bike home and taking the forks apart, I found that both springs had somehow slid down over the inner cartridge. I had to use bailing wire and brute force to get the springs off. So, after a little research, I found a blurb in Race Tech's directions about installing washers on both ends of the fork spring. I also broke out my calipers and noticed the ID of one end of the spring is about 0.100" larger than the other end of the spring. Has this happened to anyone else? Do I need washers on both ends of the springs? I only got spacers with my springs but no washers. I'm not putting my forks together until I figure this out.

You must use at least one of the included washers between the cartridge top and the lower end of the spring. It forms a seat for the spring so that it doesn't/cannot slide over the cartridge. You may also need to THOROUGHLY flush the forks and fill with fresh oil, since the steel springs rubbing against the brass top of the cartridges, probably chewed the brass. You probably have metal fragments dancing around in the fork oil.

You may want to enlist the services of a suspension shop or send the forks to RaceTech, if you're not completely comfortable with suspension work.

 

[USMC CWO]

I spoke to the R&D and Tech Support Folks at Race Tech today and here is what they had to say:

The FJR fork springs have a slight taper, and the narrower end is supposed to go in first and sit on top of the damper, just like the factory springs. No washer should be needed. They also said that they had a problem with improperly marked forks (wrong ones) going out and causing similar problems, but they believe this has been completely resolved. They said repeatedly how important it is to install the spring with the narrower end at the bottom.

If you've put Race Tech fork springs you may want to make sure the wider end is on top.

I've flushed the forks out thoroughly and put everything back together. I'll be test riding this weekend...we'll see how it goes.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I spoke to the R&D and Tech Support Folks at Race Tech today and here is what they had to say:
The FJR fork springs have a slight taper, and the narrower end is supposed to go in first and sit on top of the damper, just like the factory springs. No washer should be needed. They also said that they had a problem with improperly marked forks (wrong ones) going out and causing similar problems, but they believe this has been completely resolved. They said repeatedly how important it is to install the spring with the narrower end at the bottom.

If you've put Race Tech fork springs you may want to make sure the wider end is on top.

I've flushed the forks out thoroughly and put everything back together. I'll be test riding this weekend...we'll see how it goes.

Interesting. Even with the springs installed properly, I wasn't 100% comfortable with the spring seating. I elected to use one flat washer and adjusted my spacer tube length accordingly.

 

[not2shabby]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=127506

Looking at the 8th pic with the forks disassembled...the compression adjuster on the lower fork leg...wtf does it screw into to make an adjustment? Do you have to line the hole in the damper body up with it? I get the rebound adjusters, they push the rod down which pushes the needle into the valve. Am I missing something really obvious here?

It's Friday...let me have it!

 

[ctfjr]

Excellent writeup & pix :clapping:

 

[twistedcricket]

Scooby/HaulinAshe

I received the fork springs and valve kit today. Did you go with their oil or with what you've always run? Did you change oil weight to something lighter or heavier because of the wholesale swap of valves and better springs?

I'm running 7.5w (I'm 99% sure anyway) and if the springs are more responsive and the valves make it even better I'm wondering if I'll want to change from 7.5 to something else.

I'm waiting for the rear shock so I might hold off and do everything the same weekend.

Thanks scoobyvroom for taking pictures and posting this write-up!

 

[worldbound4now]

Just a quick, but necessary edit.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the following correction be made to the instruction set?

"35. To correctly measure the fluid level extend compress the inner fork tube completely. From the top edge of the fork tube to the fluid level should be 110mm. Level should be checked with spring removed."

Otherwise, this is a great write-up. Thank you for the information!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Just a quick, but necessary edit.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the following correction be made to the instruction set?

"35. To correctly measure the fluid level extend compress the inner fork tube completely. From the top edge of the fork tube to the fluid level should be 110mm. Level should be checked with spring removed."

Otherwise, this is a great write-up. Thank you for the information!

WorldBound -- you are correct. The oil level is measured with the inner tube compressed. I'm getting ready to install some RT 0.95 springs in the next couple days.

Perfect time to resurrect this thread!

--G

 

[Constant Mesh]

After looking at your photos I don't understand how the "Compression Damping Force Adjustment Screw" on the lower rear of the fork affects what's happening at the bottom end of the damping cartridge? Is there an oil flow port cast in the outer tube for which this adjustment screw tweaks the compression oil flow?

Maybe you might explain just how the oil flows during compression and rebound. Thanks.

 

[Fred W]

nevermind... I didn't read far enough ahead. My point was already made above.

 

[RZ350]

Oops - decided to post my question elsewhere.