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radman

R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Joined
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Location
Lakeville,MN
I'm an *****. Complete and utterly. Pride goeth before the fall and all that. Lemme explain.

All this year, Frank has had a baffling vibration. Would not TBS out. Seemed to run good, good power (but then 150 horsies will mask problems, believe me), but he would be smooth, then suddenly develop the vibe approaching 4000 rpm and beyond, intrusive, unmistakable, irritating. Sometimes minor, sometimes so bad 25 miles could be a chore. Some may recall I had had the injectors matched and flowed-suspected a problem there, put Frank on a 5 gas analyzer, and #4 was way outta spec, high HC and low CO2, which indicated poor combustion, due to being "too lean, too rich, or an ignition misfire, or any combination of the above". Well, that narrowed it down. Pulled #4 spark plug, which had been installed over winter, and had about 9000 miles on it, covered in carbon. Looked like Frank was running on anthracite. Fresh plugs, HC down, CO2 up, but still not as good as the other cylinders. Having extra injectors on hand, replaced #4 and everything better-for a time. Next day, secure in the knowledge that I am the master of my domain, got on the freeway, buzzed him up a bit, running perfect, settled down, and WHAMMO, vibration, power down noticeably, ****. Get home, check vacumn (sometimes when you wack the throttle, the throttle linkage mechanisms can tweak a bit), tiny adjustments, but no change. Notice a miss on the right side, a little popping at idle, definite misfire at 3000 rpm. Hmmmmm. Well, maybe the injector I put in is dirty, or has a bad pattern, but hell, I'm grasping at straws here, so I pop the rail, and put in yet another one, after cleaning it as best I can without having any way to actuate it. Put it in, and last night, Frank was perfect, smooth as silk throughout the full range of rpm's, an absolute joy, and I was again exited about how sweet this bike can be. Was riding rural, turned onto a county highway, and opened him up, nothing wild, shifted at 7 thou or so, and in 4th gear, just as he hit 6k, and WHAMMO, vibes etc et, missing on the right side. Again. Big time. I'm just about to the point where Frank develops a major fuel leak. Back home, buzzing all the way. Oh, and to help things along, Garmin decides he's not gonna play any more either-he shuts off, I restart, he shuts off again. More on that later.

Well, now I'm really befuddled-everything is as perfect as I can make it, yet this problem keeps plagueing me. Today I decide thats it, I'm getting to the bottom if I'm on it all week-I'm better than this, I should be able to figure this out. I pull the fuel rail, install yet another injector that has soaked all night in a cleaning solution. The plug is new, I know that can't be it, all back together, and not only does Frank run like ****, I now have a check engine light to boot. My, but this is fun. Code 11, Cyl ID sensor. Careful examination shows a wire for the sensor has found it's way under the left hand screw that fastens the fuel rail in place. It is well mangled, and is right at the harness plug on the left side of the motor-mashed flat with all it's innards a showin. Christ. I repair it, and the ohm meter shows continuity between it and the ECM, but when I turn the key on,the check engine light remains nice and bright. So now I think the sensor has fried. My love for Frank deepens. U Motors can have it Wed, me by Friday. ASAP I tell them, and reconcile my self to a weeks wait for the next round of joy. With time on my hands, I pull the T-Bar, #4 plug wire, and then the sensor (patience, it's coming), though the manual doesn't give ohm readings for diag-wait a minute! The manuals diagnostics says to measure output voltage while engine is running. This things a generator! Further research shows it is exactly the same part as the speed sensor. No way could the wire being grounded have hurt it, nor the ECM (my biggest fear). Yet more research shows that for the check engine light to shut off, the engine needs to sense a signal from the sensor!!! I quickly start reassembling things, the sensors in, I grab #4 plug wire to re-insert it and [SIZE=18pt]THE CAP FALLS OFF THE WIRE AND ONTO THE FLOOR!!!![/SIZE] My jaw drops. All my work and the problem was about the simplest ******* thing one could imagine. A quick snip off the end, and push and a screw and the wire is remanufactured. Being a little excited now, I quickly install the tank etc, put the key in, mutter a quick prayer to St. Don (Garlits), and hit the start button. Light blinks off, Franks runs smooth as silk. Ha, been here before I continue muttering, and off I go. Slow speed, redline, cold, hot, Frank doesn't skip a beat. Smooth as silk, the way things should be. Come home, hot soak. Restart, idles perfect at 1000 rpm. Buzz up to 4k on the stand, smooth as a newborns ***.

Next time I give any advise, keep this tale in mind, and temper anything I say with a unh huh and move on.

Oh, and the Garmin? A screw had come loose inside and, rolling around, caused an intermittent short. I think. Could be if I just alter the programming a tad here........

 
Radman,

Don't feel bad about this one.

I once did a complete top end job on a Chevy 350 chasing a 'click' sound - ended up being a bad plug wire.

Most expensive effing plug wire I ever changed out.

Look at the bright side - at least you got some more bonding time with Frank. :blink:

 
I will swear on anything you want that the following is true: if anyone else had posted the problems you talked about I would have asked them to check the plug wire and coil. I even considered it in your post, but figured that was one of the first things you would have checked. :lol:

If it makes you feel any better I teach math for a living, but once had a cashier give me an arithmetic lesson. **** happens.

 
I remember in my early years as an electricain, and the master electrician asking the simple question is the power on? DOH! I chased the same problem on my gas gas and it was a simple plug cap issue. That is an even longer story.

 
I once spent an hour trying to get a car door open with a coat hanger after a customer locked her keys in her car only to find the passenger window down.

 
Don't feel bad! I once gave a Honda a complete valve and carb rebuild only to discover the whole problem was a bad plug. Brand new from NGK!

 
Congrats on the repair but, oh, what a story. Most of us admit that we've been there and, as for those who claim to have never done such a thing ... they are lying. Just look forward to the day when you can look back and see the humor...hopefully that will be sooner rather than later!

 
We're being way to nice. To bad rad wasn't around to tell you what a dipshit you are! :p

 
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OK, heres mine. I rebuilt a Kawasaki H2 engine, installed it, it fired up

on the first kick. The kick starter stayed down, and wouldn't spring up.

Dummy me, forgot to wind the spring.

 
Never had anything like that happen to me, no sir. I take it to the shop and let it happen to them. :rolleyes:

 
I will swear on anything you want that the following is true: if anyone else had posted the problems you talked about I would have asked them to check the plug wire and coil. I even considered it in your post, but figured that was one of the first things you would have checked. :lol:
If it makes you feel any better I teach math for a living, but once had a cashier give me an arithmetic lesson. **** happens.
Honestly, I thought I had. Cap resistance and all, for I would have counseled the same. But, I've been chasing this for a while, maybe I dreamed it. <_<

 
All my work and the problem was about the simplest ******* thing one could imagine. A quick snip off the end, and push and a screw and the wire is remanufactured.
You realize of course that by not replacing the whole coil and wire assembly you're tempting Fek - the spiteful god of mechanics - to make sure there are other weak spots in that plug wire which will break at the most inopportune time. :rolleyes: Of course if you replace the whole coil and wire assembly you can be guaranteed that your current wire/coil would have been good for 100,000 miles. :p

 
Great story and a greater ending. I'm glad that you tracked down your problem.

Everyone of us has a similar story. Mine is simple. My daughter calls me to tell me that an electrical outlet isn't working. I drive the 15 miles to her condo (which I own so I have to do any repairs). I spent 15-20 minutes measuring the voltage, checking the wires, etc to no avail. I give up and call an electrician.

The next day the electrician calls me from her condo. He tells me that he's fixed the problem and is sending me a bill for $60. I say, "fine....but what was the problem?".

His reply?

"The wall switch was turned off".

 
Tell me again how much you like electrical work!

Good on ya' Rad, makes us all feel better knowing the great outcome.

Shane

 
Great reminder to check the easy stuff first. But you still found that crushed wire that might have been trouble later. All's well that ends well.

 
Hadda 1976 Oldsmobile Delta 88 right? The thing developed a radical miss and so I and the local GM establishment commenced the repair of same. Rebuilt the carb first off then replaced the fuel pump and added all new plug wires and plugs. This over the course of a couple months and mucho dinero. Bastage still would take to runnin reeel crappy ever once in a while. FINALLY one day it done it and I managed to get it to the Chevy joint while it was actin up. No one could figger out whut was doing it. Then some Braniac said go get old pete in the back room. He come out there with a welders hat on backards and yanked the vacume advance off the distributer and said rev her up with his finger over the hole. It went right to 5500 rpms as a good little 455 should. He took his finger off it and it run like crap again. He says the primary induction coil is bad in the bottom a thet thar distributer. Cost me 14 bux down ta NAPA and about 45 minutes work to tear it apart and replace it and put it back in and time the3 fuggin thang. hmmmmmm..... must have to work on my technique huh?

Flint

p.s. i feel yer pain......

 
I dropped the oil pan on a Fairlane once (which meant lifting the motor for the proper clearance). My objective? to clean/replace the pickup due to low oil pressure and having tried other things first. Put it all back together and no improvement. Out of options, I checked the aftermarket oil pressure guage and found that the small tube that fed oil to the guage (no electronic sensor) was plugged. Replaced what amounted to a small id icemaker tube and Bob's your Brother's Dad!

DUH!

 
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