Raising the Forks..

[kawwikid]

Has any one tried raising the forks 5mm to 10mm above the triple clamp? Just thinking it would be an easy way to get the tail up a little and add weight over the front a bit more, and shorten the wheel base a bit, letting the bike turn quicker and hold a tighter line. Anyone?

Sean

 

[Knifemaker]

I don't know....If it ain't broke don't fix it?

I think the steering geometry is just fine for a 600lb sport/TOURING bike...

KM

 

[twowheelnut]

Has any one tried raising the forks 5mm to 10mm above the triple clamp? Just thinking it would be an easy way to get the tail up a little and add weight over the front a bit more, and shorten the wheel base a bit, letting the bike turn quicker and hold a tighter line. Anyone?

Sean

Yep, it's been done, but mostly for height issues. You will lessen your cornering clearance a smidge.

 

[kawwikid]

Has any one tried raising the forks 5mm to 10mm above the triple clamp? Just thinking it would be an easy way to get the tail up a little and add weight over the front a bit more, and shorten the wheel base a bit, letting the bike turn quicker and hold a tighter line. Anyone?

Sean

Yep, it's been done, but mostly for height issues. You will lessen your cornering clearance a smidge.

I guess my thinking is that since the FJR is kind of set up to ride lower in the back from the factory, that might be one of th reasons that some people get the funky steering shake, and adding more weight over the front would help that out. I have also seem a kit on WH that is a link for the rear to raise it up and get the same effect, with out losing any ground clearence. Just curious.

Sean

 

[madmike2]

Yep, it's been done, but mostly for height issues. You will lessen your cornering clearance a smidge.

The issue here isn't just cornering clearance (though, if aggressive, peg feelers drag rather easily) but that the bottom fairing/exhause header clearance becomes an issue when crossing speed bumps and potholes.

I guess my thinking is that since the FJR is kind of set up to ride lower in the back from the factory, that might be one of th reasons that some people get the funky steering shake, and adding more weight over the front would help that out. I have also seem a kit on WH that is a link for the rear to raise it up and get the same effect, with out losing any ground clearence. Just curious.
Sean

Sean, I think most people have had success with the aftermarked shocks raising the ride height and adding preload for loaded sidecases, passengers, etc.

That being said, there is a local NorCal rider who has raised/stiffened the rear , replaced the fork springs and raised the tubes. But he has skills far-and-away better than mine....and needs, as he lives in the foothills and rides some waaayyy fun back roads. Of course, his tires are "toast" @ 2500 miles!

 

[2WheelTiger]

10 mm is probably way too far. I'd start with about 2.5 and maybe go to 5.

On the FJR, the differences in "feel" might be more in the rider's head than anything else. YMMV.

 

[S76]

On the FJR, the differences in "feel" might be more in the rider's head than anything else. YMMV.

That's certainly not the case with me! There ain't nothing in my head.

 

[jestal]

Stuff gets pretty close at full jounce....like the fender to the fairing/brake lines and horns. Especially horns if you have added the Magnum Blasters..... If you raise the forks in the triple clamp be sure to check clearance when the front end bottoms.

 

[faster675]

That being said, there is a local NorCal rider who has raised/stiffened the rear , replaced the fork springs and raised the tubes. But he has skills far-and-away better than mine....and needs, as he lives in the foothills and rides some waaayyy fun back roads. Of course, his tires are "toast" @ 2500 miles!

Who ?

I'd like to get in touch with him to discuss what was done.

Waiting for my GP GB Goodies ... haven't spoken with them (in detail) yet about what they suggest as far as ride height

adjustments to the rear and/or dropping the triple clamp in the front ... patience ....

 

[ducpilot]

That being said, there is a local NorCal rider who has raised/stiffened the rear , replaced the fork springs and raised the tubes. But he has skills far-and-away better than mine....and needs, as he lives in the foothills and rides some waaayyy fun back roads. Of course, his tires are "toast" @ 2500 miles!

Who ?

I'd like to get in touch with him to discuss what was done.

Waiting for my GP GB Goodies ... haven't spoken with them (in detail) yet about what they suggest as far as ride height

adjustments to the rear and/or dropping the triple clamp in the front ... patience ....

I second that... I can make a set of shock links to raise the rear but if someone already has I'm in. I am looking for any ground clearance I can get...

 

[madmike2]

That being said, there is a local NorCal rider who has raised/stiffened the rear , replaced the fork springs and raised the tubes. But he has skills far-and-away better than mine....and needs, as he lives in the foothills and rides some waaayyy fun back roads. Of course, his tires are "toast" @ 2500 miles!

Who ?

I'd like to get in touch with him to discuss what was done.

Waiting for my GP GB Goodies ... haven't spoken with them (in detail) yet about what they suggest as far as ride height

adjustments to the rear and/or dropping the triple clamp in the front ... patience ....

I second that... I can make a set of shock links to raise the rear but if someone already has I'm in. I am looking for any ground clearance I can get...

Okay, I sent him a PM linking this thread and your handles. Now its up to him...if he has time and is willing, he'll post or PM you.

 

[UberKul]

I'm the guy Mike makes sound like a rockstar... I'm not. I just live in the mountains a make the most use of them.

My seat of the pants-feels good to me set up so far is the shortest dog bones (26-28mm) I found at Wild Hair. I am also running a Wilbers 641 set up for solo sport riding. Set sag to 35mm and the back was good.

I put the Wilbers springs in the front, put in heavier fork oil, raised the level, and have 6.5mm* of tube showing above the top clamp.

I'm running Continental Road Attacks that give me a precise feel and maintain a good profile for an average 3500 miles that get pushed to 4k. With this set up my tires never really leave the ground on the center stand. I still drag a little from time to time but the tires are at the edge and body position starts to look a little obnoxious for the street.

I don't think I'll go the next step with the TD cartridges, for the same price I could pick up some supermoto tires/wheels for the Husky and really yuk it up.

* Sorry Faster675, I thought is was 5mm until I went and checked.

BTW, throw on a passenger and all bets are off unless you adjust preload every time, I don't.

 

[ducpilot]

I'm the guy Mike makes sound like a rockstar... I'm not. I just live in the mountains a make the most use of them.My seat of the pants-feels good to me set up so far is the shortest dog bones (26-28mm) I found at Wild Hair. I am also running a Wilbers 641 set up for solo sport riding. Set sag to 35mm and the back was good.

I put the Wilbers springs in the front, put in heavier fork oil, raised the level, and have 6.5mm* of tube showing above the top clamp.

I'm running Continental Road Attacks that give me a precise feel and maintain a good profile for an average 3500 miles that get pushed to 4k. With this set up my tires never really leave the ground on the center stand. I still drag a little from time to time but the tires are at the edge and body position starts to look a little obnoxious for the street.

I don't think I'll go the next step with the TD cartridges, for the same price I could pick up some supermoto tires/wheels for the Husky and really yuk it up.

* Sorry Faster675, I thought is was 5mm until I went and checked.

BTW, throw on a passenger and all bets are off unless you adjust preload every time, I don't.

I am running an Ohlins rear with Race-Tech springs and valving up front. I replace my peg feelers at least once a year and go through a set of knee pucks in the same period (mostly from teaching classes). Do you know what the Hole to hole length is for teh 26-28mm dog bones? I am running a 2005, is yours the same series or do you have a post '05 FJR?

Thanks for the feedback

 

[UberKul]

I'm the guy Mike makes sound like a rockstar... I'm not. I just live in the mountains a make the most use of them.My seat of the pants-feels good to me set up so far is the shortest dog bones (26-28mm) I found at Wild Hair. I am also running a Wilbers 641 set up for solo sport riding. Set sag to 35mm and the back was good.

I put the Wilbers springs in the front, put in heavier fork oil, raised the level, and have 6.5mm* of tube showing above the top clamp.

I'm running Continental Road Attacks that give me a precise feel and maintain a good profile for an average 3500 miles that get pushed to 4k. With this set up my tires never really leave the ground on the center stand. I still drag a little from time to time but the tires are at the edge and body position starts to look a little obnoxious for the street.

I don't think I'll go the next step with the TD cartridges, for the same price I could pick up some supermoto tires/wheels for the Husky and really yuk it up.

* Sorry Faster675, I thought is was 5mm until I went and checked.

BTW, throw on a passenger and all bets are off unless you adjust preload every time, I don't.

I am running an Ohlins rear with Race-Tech springs and valving up front. I replace my peg feelers at least once a year and go through a set of knee pucks in the same period (mostly from teaching classes). Do you know what the Hole to hole length is for teh 26-28mm dog bones? I am running a 2005, is yours the same series or do you have a post '05 FJR?

Thanks for the feedback

I'm on 2005 as well. My ultra precise crawl under the bike with a ruler method shows 155.58mm center to center on the new bones compared to 160.2mm on the stock ones. BTW, that's eye-balling it so please do not machine your's to those specs. :dribble:

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Another "not-so-accurate" measurement and using 'Murican values -- Gen I links: stock 6 1/4 " centers (maybe + a scosch?); my links , approx 6" centers.

Not to put too fine a point on it -- get that rear end up to lessen all the peg dragging and steepen the steering angle for quicker handling.

Also, the leverage changes on the rear shock may offer some advantages, too? :huh:

 

[ducpilot]

Thanks guys for the measurements. I figure I can punch out a set of links pretty easy and it should cost next to nothing. It looks like we are talking about 4.5mm to 7mm. Sure doesn't seem like much for close to an inch (26-28mm) of extra ride height. I would have started at about 10mm so I am glad you guys were out there to help