I've got a wiring harness from Randy for my Fiam Blaster horns. I'm working on the install, and wonder what else needs to come off before I try to fit the horns on?
:lol:
Ok, seriously, this project did start off as just installing a pair of horns. But I really wanted to get in there and see just what I had under all that plastic. I did all this over Memorial Day weekend. I've only had the bike short while, but am loving it.
The bike had 15,100 miles when I tore it down, which is getting close the the 16,000 maintenance so I took care of some of that, and I was also worried about the grounding plugs under the tank that some have had melt. I had some outlets and stuff just sitting to be installed, so rather that do a little here and a little there, I just dug in and did it all. Everything went back together and I've ridden about 1200 miles on it since I finished this.
List of items completed...
Install Horns using Randy’s wiring harness.
Disable Auto Windshield Retract
Checked/Greased/Secured 7 of the grounding connectors
(4 under tank/3 behind front cowling)
Installed Signal Dynamics LED Voltmeter
Changed spark plugs to CR8EIX iridium
Installed Powerlet
Installed standard 12V outlet
Installed Battery Tender pigtail
Installed Driving Lights with 3 position switch
( On with bike power, Off, On with high beams)
Changed Oil/Filter
Removed glove box solenoid to completely disable lock (I much prefer this, can open the box anytime)
Did hitch pin secure connection for both panniers
Dual HyperLites on rear
TopBox installed, I built my own adapter for the Bestem topbox bracket.
A few notes from all the things I worked on...
On the horn install, (Fiam something Blasters), same ones that Randy shows in his pics for the install on the 2006 model. I used the FIAM supplied brackets, and did not need to cut any plastic. Install was very simple, worked perfectly. Harness was great, I had everything I needed to build my own, but I'm glad I got his. Quality.
Signal Dynamics LED voltmeter module. I’ve had this for a while, and removed it from a prior bike before selling that bike. This install, I had the opportunity to learn a lot about how it really works, since I’ve always been a little skeptical of it. When first deciding where to put it, I was testing it with various wires on the bike. I was getting bad readings, sometime green, but going to yellow, red, blinking red. It was doing all sorts of things when turn signals were turned on, high beams, the horn being honked, when just about ANYTHING was changed that used electric power, it bounced to yellow or blinking, both with just electrics on, or with bike at idle or even revved. It worked fine when direct to battery or with wires right at the battery. I finally decided to get the multimeter out, and get some ‘real’ readings. Turns out, the voltmeter was performing exactly to the specs.
Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC
Steady Green - Above 12.9
Steady Amber - Above 12.6
Steady Red - Above 12.1
Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC
On the various wires I was using to test, the windshield retract, glovebox, grip heater, running ligts, etc. ( all on left side of bike), I was getting weak readings, even with the bike running. Never saw 13, most from high 11’s to 12.5, depending on what I was turning on or off, idle or not. Well, now I knew the voltmeter was working perfectly, and apparently had just informed me of a bad battery or electrical problem. I decided to move on to other things for the night.
Two things I did after that, I opened up and checked the 4 ground connectors under the tank, (they all looked perfect), but I greased them, wrapped the front right floppy one with tape, and tied it down so it wouldn’t move. Secondly, I also had put some double sided tape on under the battery terminal nuts, to hold them up in place. I decided that might not be a good idea since it reduced that contact area. I notice when I removed the positive lug, it wasn’t really tight, not real loose, but not really snugged like it should be.
The next morning, with everything put back together, that problem was gone, I’m not 100% sure what it was, probably the batter lug/tape combo. I’m getting 13 plus volts when running, and turn on and off everything voltage stays on all the wires I tested, including driving lights(according to multimeter), and the LED voltmeter stays green. ( I did leave the key on, with engine off for a minute or two with driving lights and hazards on, and it went yellow pretty quickly.) Long story, but I did get the opportunity to know just what’s going on if I start seeing colors other than GREEN on the LED.
On the grounding connectors that some on this forum have had melt or come close to it. Mainly front right side of tank. I found 4 of those under the tank, 3 in the instruments. I checked, dielectric greased all of them, and taped or zip tied them if they were hanging. All of mine looked perfect, no corrosion. ( when I was doing all of this, I actually dielectric greased ALL of the connections that I worked with on final re-assembly.)
All of the things I installed was stuff I had removed from other bikes before selling, or I had bought them for other bikes and never installed them. The driving lights are cheapy $30 55watt driving from Advanced Auto. They will be great as a daytime “don’t pull out in front if me” attention getter. I’ve never had driving lights, and currently am not in a situation where I need super reaching night lights. I wired these with relay and Always On/Off/High Beam On and set it up so I can easily pull the leads out of the front vent, and replace them without getting into the bike AT ALL. Wiring them to pass under the Gerald bracket, and right into the front vent is just excellent. Couldn’t be cleaner.
I connected a blue LED from Radio Shack below the driving light switch(beside the heated grip control) to indicate they are on. The Voltmeter is also shown.
The Luggage Pins
Scary drilling the plastic for the outlets...
Worked out ok though...
Rear fender shortened, top box installed, locking quick release.
Driving Lights
Reflective Rear
I feel a lot more comfortable with the bike now that I've got this far into it. Lovin' the FJR!
:lol:
Ok, seriously, this project did start off as just installing a pair of horns. But I really wanted to get in there and see just what I had under all that plastic. I did all this over Memorial Day weekend. I've only had the bike short while, but am loving it.
The bike had 15,100 miles when I tore it down, which is getting close the the 16,000 maintenance so I took care of some of that, and I was also worried about the grounding plugs under the tank that some have had melt. I had some outlets and stuff just sitting to be installed, so rather that do a little here and a little there, I just dug in and did it all. Everything went back together and I've ridden about 1200 miles on it since I finished this.
List of items completed...
Install Horns using Randy’s wiring harness.
Disable Auto Windshield Retract
Checked/Greased/Secured 7 of the grounding connectors
(4 under tank/3 behind front cowling)
Installed Signal Dynamics LED Voltmeter
Changed spark plugs to CR8EIX iridium
Installed Powerlet
Installed standard 12V outlet
Installed Battery Tender pigtail
Installed Driving Lights with 3 position switch
( On with bike power, Off, On with high beams)
Changed Oil/Filter
Removed glove box solenoid to completely disable lock (I much prefer this, can open the box anytime)
Did hitch pin secure connection for both panniers
Dual HyperLites on rear
TopBox installed, I built my own adapter for the Bestem topbox bracket.
A few notes from all the things I worked on...
On the horn install, (Fiam something Blasters), same ones that Randy shows in his pics for the install on the 2006 model. I used the FIAM supplied brackets, and did not need to cut any plastic. Install was very simple, worked perfectly. Harness was great, I had everything I needed to build my own, but I'm glad I got his. Quality.
Signal Dynamics LED voltmeter module. I’ve had this for a while, and removed it from a prior bike before selling that bike. This install, I had the opportunity to learn a lot about how it really works, since I’ve always been a little skeptical of it. When first deciding where to put it, I was testing it with various wires on the bike. I was getting bad readings, sometime green, but going to yellow, red, blinking red. It was doing all sorts of things when turn signals were turned on, high beams, the horn being honked, when just about ANYTHING was changed that used electric power, it bounced to yellow or blinking, both with just electrics on, or with bike at idle or even revved. It worked fine when direct to battery or with wires right at the battery. I finally decided to get the multimeter out, and get some ‘real’ readings. Turns out, the voltmeter was performing exactly to the specs.
Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC
Steady Green - Above 12.9
Steady Amber - Above 12.6
Steady Red - Above 12.1
Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC
On the various wires I was using to test, the windshield retract, glovebox, grip heater, running ligts, etc. ( all on left side of bike), I was getting weak readings, even with the bike running. Never saw 13, most from high 11’s to 12.5, depending on what I was turning on or off, idle or not. Well, now I knew the voltmeter was working perfectly, and apparently had just informed me of a bad battery or electrical problem. I decided to move on to other things for the night.
Two things I did after that, I opened up and checked the 4 ground connectors under the tank, (they all looked perfect), but I greased them, wrapped the front right floppy one with tape, and tied it down so it wouldn’t move. Secondly, I also had put some double sided tape on under the battery terminal nuts, to hold them up in place. I decided that might not be a good idea since it reduced that contact area. I notice when I removed the positive lug, it wasn’t really tight, not real loose, but not really snugged like it should be.
The next morning, with everything put back together, that problem was gone, I’m not 100% sure what it was, probably the batter lug/tape combo. I’m getting 13 plus volts when running, and turn on and off everything voltage stays on all the wires I tested, including driving lights(according to multimeter), and the LED voltmeter stays green. ( I did leave the key on, with engine off for a minute or two with driving lights and hazards on, and it went yellow pretty quickly.) Long story, but I did get the opportunity to know just what’s going on if I start seeing colors other than GREEN on the LED.
On the grounding connectors that some on this forum have had melt or come close to it. Mainly front right side of tank. I found 4 of those under the tank, 3 in the instruments. I checked, dielectric greased all of them, and taped or zip tied them if they were hanging. All of mine looked perfect, no corrosion. ( when I was doing all of this, I actually dielectric greased ALL of the connections that I worked with on final re-assembly.)
All of the things I installed was stuff I had removed from other bikes before selling, or I had bought them for other bikes and never installed them. The driving lights are cheapy $30 55watt driving from Advanced Auto. They will be great as a daytime “don’t pull out in front if me” attention getter. I’ve never had driving lights, and currently am not in a situation where I need super reaching night lights. I wired these with relay and Always On/Off/High Beam On and set it up so I can easily pull the leads out of the front vent, and replace them without getting into the bike AT ALL. Wiring them to pass under the Gerald bracket, and right into the front vent is just excellent. Couldn’t be cleaner.
I connected a blue LED from Radio Shack below the driving light switch(beside the heated grip control) to indicate they are on. The Voltmeter is also shown.
The Luggage Pins
Scary drilling the plastic for the outlets...
Worked out ok though...
Rear fender shortened, top box installed, locking quick release.
Driving Lights
Reflective Rear
I feel a lot more comfortable with the bike now that I've got this far into it. Lovin' the FJR!
