Rebound Adjustment

[HaulinAshe]

It's a common practice to "chase" damping adjustments due to oil breakdown (tinning out due to ware) using click adjustments. Racers do this even though they do change their fork oil frequently.

Not in my race bikes!

I'll change clickers for varying track conditions, but if ever one of my race bike suspensions suffered from worn/deteriorated/dirty fork oil, the oil was changed.

Guess that's a difference between dirt and street.

 

[dbx]

This is an interesting topic for me because I haven't checked or adjusted the suspension on my current or previous FJR, but it's a little confusing because the initial post seems to use the terms "rebound" and "rebound damping" interchangeably. I muddled through and got the gist of it after reading several times, but the terminology almost derailed me.

Thanks for the write-up!

 

[NSrider]

Is there a similar method to check the compression damping as well?

 

[BigBlu13]

Manual says rebound factory adjustment is 12 clicks in from out. I adjusted mine one click in at a time and found the best ride and best control was 17 click out. Just be sure you have the same clicks both shocks. I am 170 pounds. Like most was saying not all bikes are the same. Have a safe ride everyone.

 

[Fred W]

Manual says rebound factory adjustment is 12 clicks in from out. I adjusted mine one click in at a time and found the best ride and best control was 17 click out.

To be totally clear, the adjustment is always stated as the number of clicks out, meaning the number of clicks that you go CCW (out) after fully seating the adjustment in the CW (in) direction. This is also true of the rear shock rebounds damping adjustment, if viewed from the bottom end of the shock.

Fully in is where the orifices are closed off the most, and therefore most restrictive, giving the maximum dampening. Since the number of total clicks seems to vary somewhat based on wear and other tolerances, you really don't want to try and make the measurement/adjustment from the fully out (CCW) end limit.

 

[HaulinAshe]

To be totally clear, the adjustment is always stated as the number of clicks out, meaning the number of clicks that you go CCW (out) after fully seating the adjustment in the CW (in) direction. This is also true of the rear shock rebounds damping adjustment, if viewed from the bottom end of the shock.

Fully in is where the orifices are closed off the most, and therefore most restrictive, giving the maximum dampening. Since the number of total clicks seems to vary somewhat based on wear and other tolerances, you really don't want to try and make the measurement/adjustment from the fully out (CCW) end limit.

Also, machining tolerances (or at least the ones that matter) are not compensated for if you reference from fully out(CCW). Suspension clickers must be referenced from fully-in/fully-closed/fully-clockwise setting(s).

If you unscrew a running water hose from the spigot and back it away an extra inch, it takes a lot of turns to make any difference in the flow of water through the hose.

 

[Dr. Jekyll]

Always nice to hear alternative theories tips and tricks, thanks for the info.