rebuild at 30,000 miles?

[Semper Fi]

I am sorry. I know this is going to piss people off but, I need some help. I have been watching things on this website for a long time. I just happen to cross a section that was talking about changing the oil in the front forks. I also saw that someone said, " if your rear shock has 30,000 miles on it, it is shot." First, I didn't know that the shock would be done at 30,000 miles, and second, I thought I had read that they can be rebuilt.

I have a 2003 FJR and I love the bike. My wife and I go riding a lot, that means a lot of 2 up on this bike. It has just crossed the 30,000 mile mark. I was aware that the front forks would have to have the oil in them changed at some time, I didn't know it would be this soon. I have read what I could find about changing the oil in the forks and I am sure I can do it. I did not know that the rear shock was done. I thought, after reading, that they could be rebuilt. I am now under the impression that it needs to be replaced, not rebuilt. Is that true? If it can't be rebuilt, what do you suggest I should replace it with?

I am going on the thrid year of owning this bike. I have had a few bikes but, never long enough to change the fork oil or shock on them. I need some help and direction on what I should do. I am learning a lot as the time we own this bike goes on!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Lots of options for you here.

First, GEN I bikes seem to be gentler on the fork bushings than later years, so an oil change will more than likely suffice. Since you're going to be in there and GEN I's are very under sprung, install a set of 0.90-1.0 kg fork springs and you'll be much happier with the bike.

Shocks are another story. Aftermarket is an option as well as replacement with a '13 and up shock. Seems Yamaha has done a better job with GEN III shocks regarding spring rate and dampening making the OEM shock a great bargain replacement upgrade.

--G

 

[jmgrif]

I have an 08 FJR and replaced my rear shock at about 72,000 kms. I was told that it couldn't be rebuilt, by a trustworthy person. He recommended Race Tech as an aftermarket solution and I went with his suggestion. Not cheap! Shock and fork rebuild with Race Tech gold valves came to about 2500. cdn. Very pleased with the outcome! But I have since helped a friend replace his shock with a shock offered here on this form with very low miles/kms? Same Gen? The better alternative is to replace your shock with the 3rd Gen shock which is supposed to be quite superior? The cost is significantly less than some after market options but to each his own? The forks can be rebuilt without going beyond original parts quite reasonably. I'm not the expert that others are, here on the forum but that's my experience!

 

[Semper Fi]

I am going to have my friends father help me with the fork rebuild, he has lots of bike and knowledge. I'm sure that shouldn't cost to much. The rear shock, I have read a couple of guys say that the GEN III shocks are good to have and replace with. I'm not sure what they will cost.

Why is it that we can't rebuild the GEN I shocks? What would you have to do to rebuild it?

 

[RossKean]

At 30,000 miles, the rear shock may be getting a little tired but likely has a fair amount of life left in it. If it doesn't bother you, don't touch it!

At this mileage (and especially age), I would definitely change the fork oil. If there are no leaks, I wouldn't bother with seals or bushings. If the fork oil has never been changed, its going to look BAD!

 

[RaYzerman19]

I'd say shocks are not done until they're done.... test it. If it's not leaking, that's a good sign. If it bounces the suspension up and down, and it will no longer have any damping regardless of where you set the damping, it may have lost it's nitrogen, then it's done. You can usually tell during riding if it's not damping any more. It's not always true it's done at 30k, it could last a fair amount longer than that.

There's no magic mileage for changing fork oil, many have gone way beyond 30k and they haven't looked all that bad....... it really doesn't lose its hydraulic properties, but aluminum oxide and teflon worn off bushings will leave some sludge in the bottom of the forks. A lot of sludge and it will start to affect damping. It will look very dark gray and may have a foulish odor. To drain it properly, you disassemble the forks, flush, replace bushings, seals and oil. If you want to do a spring upgrade, that's the time also.

 

[dcarver]

Let's be clear. Suspension work is the BIGGEST improvement you can make on your FJR. If you have any cash available... upgrade.

 

[Semper Fi]

I have to say that, the way the bike is now, it to me is fine. I have no leaks on the forks or the shock. I plan on doing the forks but, I will be looking for a GEN III shock to replace mine with. It's not that the bike is acting strange or anything, it's just that people have said 30,000 miles and it sould be "done."

I am the second owner of the bike. I think the the other guy was 6'2" tall and I am 6' tall. I would guess that our weight is about the same. He must have had the bike setup fo him when he bought it. I must say that, the bike is running great now!

If you guys know of anyone that is replacing a GEN III rear shock, with low miles, let me know. I just might buy it from him.

 

[BanjoBoy]

I have to say that, the way the bike is now, it to me is fine. I have no leaks on the forks or the shock. I plan on doing the forks but, I will be looking for a GEN III shock to replace mine with. It's not that the bike is acting strange or anything, it's just that people have said 30,000 miles and it sould be "done."
I am the second owner of the bike. I think the the other guy was 6'2" tall and I am 6' tall. I would guess that our weight is about the same. He must have had the bike setup fo him when he bought it. I must say that, the bike is running great now!

If you guys know of anyone that is replacing a GEN III rear shock, with low miles, let me know. I just might buy it from him.

It all depends on how ya ride, and what you "need" frum yer steed?

If it feels fine, you could just get away w/ change'in the fork oil, and not worry 'bout the shock. It's always good to change yer fork oil often (I do mine every 10 to 15K mi.) cuz you can and will wear out yer fork legs, w/ prolonged use using dirty fork oil. Then save your pennies for a new shock maybe next year?

 

[TripperMike]

I haven't ever read anywheres about this 30K miles and it's time to rebuild. That's not to say someone out there did write that, but like others just stated, I don't think there is any diffinative mileage milestone where the suspension needs major work.

I've known one rider who brought his OEM shock in for a rebuild (there are some shops who can do this) and although he was happy with it for a while, it wasn't too long before it failed. It's dicey to rebuild them. But what I would consider for a cheaper alternative is when you call Race Tech for your stiffer fork springs (and you should) also order a stiffer coil for the rear, mostly cuz of your 2-up riding. You can bring in your shock and new coil to your favorite shop and they should be able to swap coils for you. Without the proper equipment, it's nearly impossible to do yourself. That made a huge difference on my bike. No more bottoming out when the wife was on board. Eventually I did upgrade to a penske, but the heavier coil prolonged the use of the OEM shock considerably.

 

[Semper Fi]

this is a copy of the video, that is on this website, that says you should replace the shock because after 30,000 miles it is shot.

It is on the "Upgrading suspension instead of replacing the bike" post.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/351404304231?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This is a "for sale" on Ebay that, will sell you a "new" used shock for the FJR. They use them as Police motorcycles but replace the shock when they first get them.

 

[ionbeam]

Based on performance, it was clear my rear shock was toast around 25k miles. It was ridden hard, 2-up most of the time and fully loaded. The New England roads keep the shock working all the time which generates lots of heat in the shock and it's the heat that's the killer.

To rebuild a sealed rear shock it needs to be cut apart, ideally in a jig, have the guts cleaned and replaced as necessary, refill the shock, weld it back together, it needs to be drilled for a pressurized N2 fill and then have the N2 fill sealed. The fellow that used to do this for stock shocks did some shocking things with little kiddies and will be living in secure housing for a very long time. (Really.)

If your shock works it doesn't need repair/replacement. If it is leaking oil, or if the rebound or compression damping goes away then it needs to be dealt with. It was clear that the damping on my Gen I rear shock had ceased to damp.

 

[rbentnail]

At 30,000 miles, the rear shock may be getting a little tired but likely has a fair amount of life left in it. If it doesn't bother you, don't touch it!
At this mileage (and especially age), I would definitely change the fork oil. If there are no leaks, I wouldn't bother with seals or bushings. If the fork oil has never been changed, its going to look BAD!

Word.

 

[rogdeb]

My experience with the rear shock.

At 22k miles of two up riding, all bags fully loaded (sides, top and tank bag) the shock was totally shagged. It was one of the factors in a low-side crash we had.

Tight right hander, shock bottomed out, hard parts touched down and levered the rear wheel off the road.

Semper Fi, replace the shock ASAP with a Gen 3 shock or aftermarket. I went with HyperPro and couldn't be happier. Just my little 2c worth.

Fork inners changed to Gen 2 springs and heavier oil.

 

[Semper Fi]

Thank you for all the thoughts and comments! I talked with a guy this afternoon. We will be doing the forks sometime next week. We talked long about replacing the rear shock. He said to me that, if the rear shock is not giving any trouble then, we should leave it alone until it does.

He also stated that, the rear shock should give more than 30,000 miles. He knows my wife and I and, that we do a lot of 2 up riding. He said that we have not wore out the shock and it should be good for a while yet. I did tell him about the shocks I found on Ebay. He said that the deal sounds good and that they are cheap.

 

[Afast03nNJ]

I've also got an 03 and did a suspension upgrade 2 years ago. HyperPro makes a spring kit, both front and rear for the bike. My suggestion is to get both springs, find a very low mileage take off rear shock on here or the auction site and install the new spring set.

If completely transformed my bike and the smile that it now puts on my face every time I ride it. The kit isn't expensive at all, but you'll need a shop to put the spring onto the rear shock. The forks are easy to service.

 

[Spud]

I held out until about 55K miles on my stock shock, then couldn't take the pogoing in corners any more. Replaced it with a GEN III at a good price from a forum member, the shock I bought had 1,500 miles on it. Pretty simple procedure to replace the shock, totally doable by the home mechanic. And yes, after that and doing forks, the bike now holds a line in corners again, so it was worth it.

 

[MajBach]

I'm glad to read someone else perplexed about their shocks as I also am. I've literally been wondering about my shocks for thousands of miles - not because there feels to be anything wrong with my bike but rather because of the number of times I have read: "shocks are the best upgrade for your FJR" and, "..the shocks on an FJR don't last past 30,000 mi...".

I just rolled 50,000 miles (80,000 kms) on my stock shocks and they don't appear to be any different than when I bought the bike at 5,000 miles. Geared up, I am easily 300 lbs and for the majority of those miles, I am touring long distances with the rear end loaded so for all intents, all of my miles are 2 up loads.

Strangely, after reading countless articles and books on suspension, I've adjusted my bike on the soft side with my preload around 3-4, the rebound 8 and compression 12; a little stiffer on the long trips. I've never bottomed out even on big bumps under heavy loads.

My front fork oil was changed around 20,000 miles ago but no other work on the suspension has ever been done. Aside from a very slight tendency (one that could be attributed to driver error) to hold a line on a tight curve and the tooth grinding chatter on a series of bumps, I don't really have any reason to feel there is anything wrong with my shocks. Mind you, I've never ridden a bike with after market shocks so I don't know what I am missing.

I would gladly drop the coin to upgrade my shocks despite not feeling there is a need to replace what I have simply because so many here say it's such a worthwhile improvement. But I haven't for the same reason I haven't any tattoos: it's a matter of finding someone I trust enough to do the job right.

 

[Semper Fi]

I agree with a lot of what all of you have said. I am going to do the forks on the 4th of Aug. What oil do you suggest that I use in the forks? I know the book says Yamaha 01. I also know that it will cost a lot. Is there anything else that can be or, should be used in the forks?