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BigSky, I have drained the case, dark oil only, no gray and no watery layer. While empty i am going to remove the clutch cover and eyeball the innards of the lower end for the possible line left, the clutch movement, maybe a few other things. Noticed you had a bike stolen and recovered, rare on the recovery part, great going! I wonder if you did a thread on your rebuild after total? Any way, per advise above, the block off plates will be eventual and the plumbing for PAIR will be removed and blocked on the cheap fisrt, then the pretty bits added later. First things first, no sense in farkling a center stand queen just yet! I other priorities, don't you think? I see many site have the part blow ups and part numbers for the mounting hardware, Motosport is the one I am leaning toward, but can they actually get them or will the dealership be my best bet (at a premium)? Any opinions?

 
I have found the OEM parts at Partshark.com to be the cheapest. Their shipping charges are strong - especially if you are ordering a bunch of nit-picky small stuff, so buyer beware.

Subscribed!!!!

 
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BigSky, I have drained the case, dark oil only, no gray and no watery layer. While empty i am going to remove the clutch cover and eyeball the innards of the lower end for the possible line left, the clutch movement, maybe a few other things. Noticed you had a bike stolen and recovered, rare on the recovery part, great going! I wonder if you did a thread on your rebuild after total? Any way, per advise above, the block off plates will be eventual and the plumbing for PAIR will be removed and blocked on the cheap fisrt, then the pretty bits added later. First things first, no sense in farkling a center stand queen just yet! I other priorities, don't you think? I see many site have the part blow ups and part numbers for the mounting hardware, Motosport is the one I am leaning toward, but can they actually get them or will the dealership be my best bet (at a premium)? Any opinions?
Good news on the pure oil! To me, that would eliminate a major concern. I think you're gonna be good to go! I'd now place my bet at 3 to 1.

The '03 was stolen in Aug. 2005 and restored over the winter. Insurance company totalled it and paid me $9K; I bought it back for $2,600 IIRC, spent another $2,300 on restoration, mostly paint work, only about $350 in parts. I then rode it to $75K before selling to sister and brother-in-law, still on the road and going strong, despite being substantially wrecked in 2014. I've had two more FJRs since. How it was recovered? Well, the police indirectly let me know I was on my own. I asked the investigating officer if she wanted a picture of the stolen bike (she had not asked for one). She said, oh, you have a picture? Then she suggested I go talk to my neighbors to see if they had witnessed anything. Oaky, I got it. The same day we made up posters and offered a $1,000 reward then papered the town and outlying area. That was a Saturday. Monday I got a call... I figured it was meth heads and that they'd bump off their mother for $1,000. Yup, the thieves claimed the reward. With the help of a private investigator (licensed to carry) we got the trashed bike back, identified the perps (got one to rat out the others) and got them sent to the state bighouse - three years, not the one's first vehicle theft conviction. Right, we had to lead the police to them, then push them to take action. Just pathetic (no reflection on good officers and good departments - Zilla). Even the prosecutors were pathetic. The assistant DA told me they would plea bargain it and get the main guy on probation. I told him the thief had a prior vehicle theft conviction and had done time. He said, no way! I told him to check South Dakota. He called me a couple of days later and said, huh, you were right. We'll press for prison time. How'd you know about the prior? I told him, as a journalist, I never reveal my sources (I am close to an investigator in a state agency, with access to...ahem). I learned a lot.

 
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Great story and better recovery! I know good, great, and pos officers in both civilian and military. Occams razor seems the rule and the path of least effort for the latter examples only. The best actually thrive on doing well, going beyond Easy! They get my respect.

 
BigSky, I have drained the case, dark oil only, no gray and no watery layer. While empty i am going to remove the clutch cover and eyeball the innards of the lower end for the possible line left, the clutch movement, maybe a few other things. Noticed you had a bike stolen and recovered, rare on the recovery part, great going! I wonder if you did a thread on your rebuild after total? Any way, per advise above, the block off plates will be eventual and the plumbing for PAIR will be removed and blocked on the cheap fisrt, then the pretty bits added later. First things first, no sense in farkling a center stand queen just yet! I other priorities, don't you think? I see many site have the part blow ups and part numbers for the mounting hardware, Motosport is the one I am leaning toward, but can they actually get them or will the dealership be my best bet (at a premium)? Any opinions?
Good news on the pure oil! To me, that would eliminate a major concern. I think you're gonna be good to go! I'd now place my bet at 3 to 1.

The '03 was stolen in Aug. 2005 and restored over the winter. Insurance company totalled it and paid me $9K; I bought it back for $2,600 IIRC, spent another $2,300 on restoration, mostly paint work, only about $350 in parts. I then rode it to $75K before selling to sister and brother-in-law, still on the road and going strong, despite being substantially wrecked in 2014. I've had two more FJRs since. How it was recovered? Well, the police indirectly let me know I was on my own. I asked the investigating officer if she wanted a picture of the stolen bike (she had not asked for one). She said, oh, you have a picture? Then she suggested I go talk to my neighbors to see if they had witnessed anything. Oaky, I got it. The same day we made up posters and offered a $1,000 reward then papered the town and outlying area. That was a Saturday. Monday I got a call... I figured it was meth heads and that they'd bump off their mother for $1,000. Yup, the thieves claimed the reward. With the help of a private investigator (licensed to carry) we got the trashed bike back, identified the perps (got one to rat out the others) and got them sent to the state bighouse - three years, not the one's first vehicle theft conviction. Right, we had to lead the police to them, then push them to take action. Just pathetic (no reflection on good officers and good departments - Zilla). Even the prosecutors were pathetic. The assistant DA told me they would plea bargain it and get the main guy on probation. I told him the thief had a prior vehicle theft conviction and had done time. He said, no way! I told him to check South Dakota. He called me a couple of days later and said, huh, you were right. We'll press for prison time. How'd you know about the prior? I told him, as a journalist, I never reveal my sources (I am close to an investigator in a state agency, with access to...ahem). I learned a lot.
Lol...No offense taken here. I've heard and seen that story play out so many times with lazy cops and dip **** prosecutors I can't help but believe it. Pisses me off.

I will say my department is pretty good about taking ownership of these cases and working them hard, but then our DA and judges let the thieves go, because "it's not a serious crime." Idiots!!

 
Updating: The fuel pump has as much cruddy rust as the tank and has come apart for cleaning. I have it in the rust remover soaking and was amazed that the filter element was even flexible. I will likely need to source one if this fails so if ya got one sitting around, PM me! Panels are collected and pricing the hardware bits to the eventual tank mounting. Waiting to get the new CCT to replace the factory weak link original on it now. As I said before, replace the weak parts before assembly and then trouble shooting can eliminate some issues. I'll check function on the pump to determine replace now or wait a bit, THEN replace. I have to say that the removal was easy, the only difficult part was the float arm as it was frozen in place.

I know most of you tech folks are "just replace" it types and if I could, I would, but money is an object over time and gotta work to get one by doing the other. Thus, I have to try with what I have on hand first. I actaully consider the replacement of the dried grips almost a farkle! I'm not going for "cheapest ride" as I am fairly sure FJR1300's have likely been handed to next generations or addicted spouses within this forum, after all the ride is both solo and social in nature, right people?

This forum has produced such a volume of info on this motorcycle, I could not imagine doing this rehab without the input, so keep it coming guys! I will be going with the manual CCT after reviewing the threads and the poll. If I'm going to be half stripping the bike periodically, a manual CCT is just another adjustment, not another replacement IF I hear suspect sounds. I'll already have to keep the ears open for the Gen 1 valve guide slap and knock. My prayers have included the absence of such a villian in the future!

I will take after photos of the same view inside the tank for discussion. Inquiring minds want to know! If it comes clean, I'll volunteer the photos for endorsements. I'll be shocked, but still hopeful.

 
Dude...Don't do a manual CCT. Just change it out to the updated one. I don't know of anyone that has actually installed a manual CCT in an FJR. However, a ton of people have moved up in versions...I think green dot and blue dot.

You won't spend any more money, and you can ride worry free.

 
^^^ +1

Radio Howie is the only person I know who has gone with the manual CCT (after he grenaded his original engine). Many have replaced the original with the newer blue-dot or green-dot CCT and I have not heard of a failure with any of these.

 
I made my own manual CCT and ran it until the next valve check and then used the latest upgrade.

 
Rehab, as far as I know, if your 25K bike is a ticker, you will know it when the engine gets warm. Seems in almost every case the ticking began somewhere between 10 and 20K. Ticking is not the end of the world. I believe some tickers have run over 100K - maybe more - without repair. I don't think the worn guide even affects performance. Might see a little oil consumption. With a $1000 bike and strict budget limitations, I wouldn't consider a repair; just run it.

 
Okay guys, I have been prone to over thinking things on occasion. This will likely be one of them. Thanks for the input. Still prepping the tank...let you know this weekend.

 
While empty i am going to remove the clutch cover and eyeball the innards of the lower end for the possible line left, the clutch movement, maybe a few other things.
While you have the clutch open, may as well soak the plates too. Then you won't have to worry about a dry clutch necessitating another tear down.

Oh, and the problems that Intech had with his valve check were simply because he didn't secure the lower end of the chain. It happens. If you do need to remove the cams (or the tensioner), just remove the oil pump cover and secure the chain to the crank sprocket teeth. Do that and you'll have very little to worry about other than removing the cam retaining caps a couple of times to get the cam timing right. It really is very easy if you just follow the directions.

As a last note, make sure you rotate the engine through a couple of turns by hand before you put it all together and hit the starter.

 
Fuel pump apart and de-rusting and tank prepped for remover. All else, have a salvage yard holding a "plan B", found the nuts & bolts (literally) and you will be glad to know some arms (mine) do fit thru the opening of the fuel pump and can give a wire brush prep inside a rust nest! Nothing but time, testing, and cash between now and first start up.

 
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