Relay arm, anyone ever remove it?

[phroenips]

Now my problem. I can't get the bearing out. I even tried taking a socket of appropriate size (I think it was a 16 or 17mm) to use it as a sort of "punch" to evenly apply on the outside of the bearing and took a mallet to it. Didn't budge. Even if I did get it out somehow, if it's that lodged in there, how would I get a new one in? Help please?

I'm not understanding the problem here.

First off, why do you need to get the bearing out? Looking at the pictures, even in their expanded large-ness reveals nothing alarming. You mentioned that you lost some of the needles. You can buy a new bearing and just stuff some of the new needles into the old outer race (that's actually the piece that you are trying to remove) with liberal quantities of grease to hold 'em in place during reassembly.

Unless you mangled that outer race by hammering it with a socket, I think you'll be OK with less drastic measures than replacement. In the event that you actually do need to replace that race you'll want to heat the arm and use a real by-gawd press to get that out of there and likewise to re-install a new one. But I seriously doubt that is required.

This is just a suspension pivot.

I'm not familiar with this type of bearing, can you just do that? Put the needles back in (I still have them all), and pack with grease? Any special grease or the Mobil 1 pink stuff (that one's for SkooterG). I figured the "plasticy" stuff in there was special and what was needed in there.

I highly doubt I did any damage to the race, I didn't hit it *that* hard.

 

[PhilJet09]

Yes, you can just replace the needles that fall out and re-pack them with grease. As a general rule of thumb though, once you start banging on a race, you have to replace it.

 

[slo-ride]

My bike just hit the 16K mark so I'm taking it in to have the swing arm pivot bearing and steering bearing serviced. I just don't have the time or patience nor the right tools to do the job myself.

Strike that...The quote from my local shop to do this job is only $400! :dribble: So, I think I have a bit more motivation to try it myself. What the heck...if I can't get it back together then I'll haul all the parts to the shop. <_<

Question though...If the center stand is removed, how do you support the rear of the bike? FJRtips used to have a pipe stand but the link no longer works. I've never done this before so I know I'm beating a dead horse...but I have to ask.

 

[phroenips]

You can do something like this: https://fjr1300.info/howto/frontstand.html

Use some straps and tie off to the frame under the seats. I pretty much did the same thing except I had a big steel L-bracket anchored to the ceiling joists.

Alternatively, if you happen to know Superman's cell phone number, just call him over to hold it up for you. :superman:

EDIT: chocking the front wheel will help tremendously as well

 

[phroenips]

By the way, as follow-up. I did end up getting everything squared away. Had my dealer press in a new bearing for me, and got it all buttoned back together (after a side trip up to Denver to get two more exhaust header gaskets...I cleaned out the only two in Colorado Springs...grr). For what it's worth, all the bearings and everything looked good at 25k miles. I easily could've gone at least another 10k without servicing them.

 

[Donal]

By the way, as follow-up. I did end up getting everything squared away. Had my dealer press in a new bearing for me, and got it all buttoned back together (after a side trip up to Denver to get two more exhaust header gaskets...I cleaned out the only two in Colorado Springs...grr). For what it's worth, all the bearings and everything looked good at 25k miles. I easily could've gone at least another 10k without servicing them.

You shouldn't need to replace your exhaust gaskets every time. (I assume you are referring to the two sleeve type gaskets that fit in the silencers). I have had my exhausts off several times and they still work well. I do make sure I clean off the exhaust stubs and put a smear of silicone grease on before re-assembly.

Don

 

[Fred W]

I built the H Marc version of that pipe stand. With that and being conscientious to chock the front wheel so the bike doesn't move forward / backward you can safely lift the rear end up enough to get the center stand and rear suspension off.

A little tip: Before you remove the suspension linkage, make a wedge of a section of 2x6 with another wood block (2x4?) underneath, then snug it under the rear wheel to take the weight of the wheel and swingarm when the linkage is released. It also makes re-aligning things easier during assembly.

As for the exhaust gaskets, you can get the two offensive center stand bolts out by "springing" the exhaust slightly on the head pipes. Just remove all 4 of the support bolts (2 in the center stand, and two back on the cans) but leave the pipe clamps all fully connected to the header. By push or pulling on he end of the can you can move the pipe just enough to get those damn bolts out, then turn them around and install them from the inside on reassembly. Many folks have done it successfully this way. If you overdo the prying you could damage the header gasket to the block. But the amount of flex needed to get the bolts clear is pretty small, so just don't go crazy with it and you'll be OK.

I did mine for the first time this winter at ~45k miles and they looked pristine, but a little on the dry side. I was glad to be able to pick those plastic-like retainers out and get some fresh grease on them for the next 45k. BTW, the grease that you use is relatively insignificant. The one thing you want is something water-resistant, as the under carriage gets some good spray when you ride in the rain. The actual bearing load on these bearings is relatively light and the rotation speed is very slow. I used some marine grade wheel bearing grease that I had on hand from prior use on my boat trailers. I figured that if it could withstand the ravages of that application, being repeatedly dunked underwater and then run up to highway speed rotations, then it would be a more than adequate choice for this one.

 

[Moosehead]

I just did this job too when I was installing my new rear shock. I just lifted the back of the bike up into the air using a come-along attached to the garage rafters. As far as the offending centre stand bolts I used a 1\4" carbide endmill on the end of my die grinder and cut through the bolt in about 1 minute.

 

[phroenips]

By the way, as follow-up. I did end up getting everything squared away. Had my dealer press in a new bearing for me, and got it all buttoned back together (after a side trip up to Denver to get two more exhaust header gaskets...I cleaned out the only two in Colorado Springs...grr). For what it's worth, all the bearings and everything looked good at 25k miles. I easily could've gone at least another 10k without servicing them.

You shouldn't need to replace your exhaust gaskets every time. (I assume you are referring to the two sleeve type gaskets that fit in the silencers). I have had my exhausts off several times and they still work well. I do make sure I clean off the exhaust stubs and put a smear of silicone grease on before re-assembly.

Don

Yeah, I reused those, what I was referring to are the gaskets for where the headers join up with the engine itself. I had to remove that to take the centerstand off and "fix" the "backward" bolt configuration (I didn't have a die grinder or angle grinder or anything to cut it off...I also didn't trust myself to not slip and nick something else, either). Those bolts are now correct, and in the future I'll be able to remove the centerstand without removing the headers.

 

[BkrK12]

Another tip on the center stand bolts. Break the front two bolts loose with the bike on the side stand. You have better access to the front two with the center stand up. Do not remove them, just break them loose. Then you can put the bike on the center stand, break the back bolts loose and lift it with your pipe rack.

Alternatively, if you have help to hold the bike vertical, you don't need to place it on the center stand. Once it's off the ground, you can take the bolts the rest of the way off.

Those four center stand bolts require a bit of grunt to break loose and they are in a bad leverage spot. I found it more comforting to do it before I had the bike swinging in the air.

 

[slo-ride]

I built the H Marc version of that pipe stand. With that and being conscientious to chock the front wheel so the bike doesn't move forward / backward you can safely lift the rear end up enough to get the center stand and rear suspension off.

I am going to buy a bike rack like this Craftsman Model. I think it will serve me well. Anyone else using one of these?

 

[phroenips]

I built the H Marc version of that pipe stand. With that and being conscientious to chock the front wheel so the bike doesn't move forward / backward you can safely lift the rear end up enough to get the center stand and rear suspension off.

I am going to buy a bike rack like this Craftsman Model. I think it will serve me well. Anyone else using one of these?

If you're looking to take off the centerstand and all of the exhaust (including the headers), that stand still won't help you...you'll have no jack point. It needs to be (carefully) suspended from above.

 

[BkrK12]

I built the H Marc version of that pipe stand. With that and being conscientious to chock the front wheel so the bike doesn't move forward / backward you can safely lift the rear end up enough to get the center stand and rear suspension off.

I am going to buy a bike rack like this Craftsman Model. I think it will serve me well. Anyone else using one of these?

If you're looking to take off the centerstand and all of the exhaust (including the headers), that stand still won't help you...you'll have no jack point. It needs to be (carefully) suspended from above.

That lift is built to be used on the flat bottom frame of a Harley. Unless you build an adapter, it will not work on a fully faired bike.

 

[dcarver]

I fixed my problem by having a competent tech do the work for me...

 

[slo-ride]

I built the H Marc version of that pipe stand. With that and being conscientious to chock the front wheel so the bike doesn't move forward / backward you can safely lift the rear end up enough to get the center stand and rear suspension off.

I am going to buy a bike rack like this Craftsman Model. I think it will serve me well. Anyone else using one of these?

If you're looking to take off the centerstand and all of the exhaust (including the headers), that stand still won't help you...you'll have no jack point. It needs to be (carefully) suspended from above.

That lift is built to be used on the flat bottom frame of a Harley. Unless you build an adapter, it will not work on a fully faired bike.

There is no way to use shims to support the bike on the jack? <_< How does the Yamaha dealer support it when they do this service? From a gantry crane or something?

 

[user 213]

My bike just hit the 16K mark so I'm taking it in to have the swing arm pivot bearing and steering bearing serviced. I just don't have the time or patience nor the right tools to do the job myself.

Strike that...The quote from my local shop to do this job is only $400! :dribble: So, I think I have a bit more motivation to try it myself. What the heck...if I can't get it back together then I'll haul all the parts to the shop. <_<

Question though...If the center stand is removed, how do you support the rear of the bike? FJRtips used to have a pipe stand but the link no longer works. I've never done this before so I know I'm beating a dead horse...but I have to ask.

I think you're worrying about this a bit too soon. Forget what the manual says about this particular item. At 144k, I've never done mine... Yeah sure, it may benefit from the work at some point, but nothing bad has happened and many, many FJR owners never do this work.

 

[BkrK12]

I built the H Marc version of that pipe stand. With that and being conscientious to chock the front wheel so the bike doesn't move forward / backward you can safely lift the rear end up enough to get the center stand and rear suspension off.

I am going to buy a bike rack like this Craftsman Model. I think it will serve me well. Anyone else using one of these?

If you're looking to take off the centerstand and all of the exhaust (including the headers), that stand still won't help you...you'll have no jack point. It needs to be (carefully) suspended from above.

That lift is built to be used on the flat bottom frame of a Harley. Unless you build an adapter, it will not work on a fully faired bike.

There is no way to use shims to support the bike on the jack? <_< How does the Yamaha dealer support it when they do this service? From a gantry crane or something?

I am sure you could build a system of shims (read adapter) to Jack the bike off the floor. Now consider that you are going to be lying on the floor next to the bike or sitting next to the lift it's on. Try to imagine yourself in that position, with the bike balanced on the surface of that lift, with shims holding the fairing away from the lift surface and now you're going to start yanking on the center stand bolts with a couple of wrenches in an attempt to break the nuts loose (we haven't yet gotten to the amount of force that is going to be required to move the exhaust system out of the way). If all that sounds like a good idea to you, god bless and good luck. Make sure your accident and life insurance premiums are current.

The Yamaha dealer does it the same way we do, by suspending it from above.

Seriously, not trying to be a jerk, you need to consider the balancing act required to do what you are suggesting.

 

[HaulinAshe]

I've said it before, and I'll add it again. This is a potentially dangerous operation. As stated above, you should give serious thought to how the bike is suspended and how much force you will be applying to loosen/remove the center stand bolts. It can be scary and potentially lethal work.

Please use good common sense and conservative action in whatever solution you choose. And please make sure someone is around to help or at least monitor your safety.

 

[Fred W]

I agree wholeheartedly with all that has been said. Personal safety should always be of primary concern. If you do not feel completely confident that you can accomplish the job in total safely, any amount spent at the repair shop is preferable to taking chances. Even from a purely financial standpoint, doctors are (still) much more expensive than bike mechanics.

As was stated earlier, all the bolt and nut breaking and loosening should be done while the bike is still on the ground and on its own stands for maximum stability. Only lift the bike to perform the removals and replacements of parts after the bolts are already loosened, and then do final re-torquing of them after the bike is back on the ground wherever possible.

I would also definitely not try and use an under bike jack (like the Sears model shown above) to accomplish this particular maintenance. For one thing, you need to elevate the rear end of the bike. That means the jack would need to be behind the center of gravity, which is right where all of these suspension links and pivots are. That jack would work OK for front end work, but not the rear suspension work.

For the final removal and replacement of the rear suspension links and pivots, the bike needs to be suspended from above by the bike's frame. Either from a sturdy stand / gantry of some sort or to a heavy beam / rafter in the ceiling above. A standard come-along would work well for this, but would not give you much side to side stability, so you'd really need to have two, or else use some system of pulleys, set-up to give you dual lifting points on the bike.

 

[slo-ride]

:clapping:

Dang good information. Dang good! Having not performed this service before, I had not considered the forces involved. Right then...I'll be building a suspension system as mentioned before. No bike jack for me. Thanks everyone!