Relay Arm Service

[painman]

Ok, I finally got around to doing a service on the bottom end of the rear suspension components. I'm getting ready for WFO and trying to do as much service as possible before time to go.

Seems I have a issue of removing the forward bolt on the center stand so I can lube the roller bearings on the front end of the relay arm. On the FJRTech.com site at the bottom of the maintainence page of "Lubing The FJR's Pivot Points", it says, "It took some doing to get the stock bolts out because of interference with the exhaust system (one has to spring the exhaust pipe down a smidgen to get the two bottom bolts out.) To fix it so I could take off the center stand without disturbing the exhaust, I bought 2 slightly shorter bolts which are now inserted from the inside and can get standard nuts on (using locktite) without interference with the exhaust pipe." Note: the bolt he is pointing to with the pencil is the bolt in question that won't come out because of hitting the exhaust pipe.

I tried to "spring" the exhaust system down to allow clearance for these two bolts to come out and there is still not enough clearance. I could possibly use a cut-off air tool to cut the bolt heads of and then buy some bolts as mentioned that would be inserted from the inside to eliminate this issue. All this is necessary to lube the roller bearings on the forward part of the relay arm as well as the other roller bearing in the arm that the shock and dogbones connect up to. And to also lube the centerstand pivot points. I have the bike supported by a 3/4" pipe stand with blocks under the exhaust as to be able to remove the center stand.

Anyone got an idea of how to remove these two bolts or should I fire up the cut-off tool? Thanks for any advice. PM. <>< Here is the said site at the bottom of the page: Lubing the FJR's pivot points

 

[Brodie]

Anyone got an idea of how to remove these two bolts or should I fire up the cut-off tool?

Del

Bolts are cheap. Skinned knuckles are a drag. I removed the nut then hack sawed the bolt so I could get it out. Once out the new bolt installs easy from the other side. Yes it's a pain, but you should only have to do this surgery once.

Good luck.

Brodie

 

[painman]

Thanks Brodie. I thought I was maybe answering my own question. I was just putting out some feelers as I'm sure many have come across this issue before. There is no way as I can see to pry the exhaust down enought to allow these bolts to come out. A good 1/2" of clearance is needed on my bike and the exhaust won't or IMO shouldn't be moved that much.

I do have the tool to cut the head off. As you mentioned I took off the nut and then the bolt will back out about a 1/4", enough to lop the head off and insert the new bolts in from the inside. I took the dogbones off the rear of the relay arm and while the roller bearings weren't dry they were in need of some good water-proof grease. And my bike only has 12,000 mi. Thanks much, PM. <><

 

[painman]

I just want to add to this post in case someone down the road wants to do this same proceedure as removing those two lower forward bolts on the center stand and install shorter one's from the inside out so you can get them out next time with little trouble.

I tried to use an air cut-off tool and the disc couldn't get close enough to the bolts heads to make the cut. I then as Brodie suggested tried to get a standard hacksaw in there to to make the cuts, no luck either. I couldn't get close enough without interference from the stand and or other obsticles.

So I made it down to the local Harbor Freight store and bought a high speed body saw or air hacksaw. (If you buy this or any other item from a Harbor Freight store in person, copy the page from the website and bring it with you so you can get the web price. Store prices are higher.) It was slow going I think because of the cheap blades that come with it, 3 fine tooth blades and 3 course. I must include I don't have a hydraulic lift table and as mentioned the bike is supported by the pipe rack overhead and some blocks below. The wheel is off and the method of operation for me is laying on the floor. Not good for an arthritic bod like mine but it works. I wonder how many have ignored this service of the front bearing of the relay arm because of this issue? If anyone has a better idea throw it out there for the next guy. Hopefully it will be done soon. PM. <><

Air Hacksaw

 

[Brodie]

I then as Brodie suggested tried to get a standard hacksaw in there to to make the cuts, no luck either. I couldn't get close enough without interference from the stand and or other obstacles.

I didn't say it was easy. I have a handle that holds onto a broken hack saw blade. There isn't much room to stroke the blade, but it can be done. Yeah, I was on my back with the bike suspended by an 1 1/2 water pipe frame work too.

What a b*tch!
Good thing you only have to do this once. About the only other way would be to move the radiator and drop the exhaust header.

Del, aren't you glad that one is behind ya?

Brodie

 

[Harald]

I just did this a few months ago and had no problem using a die grinder with a thin cutoff wheel attached (3 or 4 inch diameter). Maybe you're trying to use a cutoff wheel that's too thick or too large a diameter? I suppose a hacksaw would work, but it's too much like work trying to saw in such a tight area. :angry2: The cutoff wheel just sliced right through the bolt shaft next to the head. :yahoo:

 

[gearman]

I don't know how the 2nd gens bolt up, but I had to make a bushing to slide between the ears and another with a flange in order to duplicate the fit of the oem shoulder bolt. I should have made extras. My bad.

 

[painman]

I wanted to add to this thread a little more and say Harald is correct as to the easiest method I found as well in removing the two forward bolts on the relay arm. And that is to use a thin cut-off wheel. I had a 3" and it didn't work but got a 4" and did the trick. Getting up in there without hitting the exhaust or pivot bolts on the center stand is trick but can be done. Also one could use a smaller cutting torch if careful. Just don't get any heat near the rear shock as it is under high pressure filled nitrogen and can explode if heated up.

And another tidbit of info, the forward and rear bearings on the relay arm, they are #24 on the Yamaha parts diagram on the "rear arm" page. The rear bearing is the lower shock mount. As to these two bearings upon inspection it looked like the roller bearings were frozen in caked up grease but as it turns out the roller bearings are held in place by some type of dark yellow plastic material. This material is under and in-between the rollers. Don't make the mistake I did and try and remove it.

Once again the rollers are held in place by this material and you cannot properly hold or reinstall the rollers back in place and re-use the bearings. I will be ordering up the two new bearings and four seals. And make sure you use some good water proof grease on the bearings, sleaves and especially the bolts to prevent the corrosion that is inherent with our bikes.Look Under "Rear Arm"

I just hope this helps someone to make this service a little easier. I know this is boring but necessary IMO. PM. <><