remove front wheel for tire change

[fjrbird]

fjrbird, someone made a board that sits on top of your jack with two raised points that hit on the engene block so that you don't have to jack on the headers. I will try to find the blog.

Found it.

https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/bikestand.html

Both look great. I wonder which way I should go, against the engine block vs the pipe headers. The latter looks a lot simpler so I probably try it first.

Thanks,

 

[fjrbird]

if you need a practical demo you can ride down to Torrance anytime and i can show you in a few minutes....

R

Definitely, Fairlaner! I'll get in touch with you.

 

[04Graphite]

I've had the front end apart a couple of times and this is how I do it, with the bike on the center stand.

I have exposed rafters in my garage so I use a stout cargo strap (ratcheting type) to go under the neck(behind the triple tree) and raise it to where I need it, this also gives me the flexibility to lower the front end of the bike once the front is apart to pull the rear tire off too!

One note of caution: watch out for wiring and such as you're doing this...use a wide strap to distribute weight or you might find your self with a broken plug or pinched wire.

 

[Nitro]

Don't know if a Gen 1 is any different, but I just unbolt the calipers.

Ditto, did my 08 back in October. Just be very careful not to warp or bend your rotors.

 

[user 31223]

sorry to open an old thread - but has anybody got any size info for the "big nut" on the left side ?

I went and got a 19MM hex Socket to only just realize that i don't need it for later models - im thinking its like 22 mm or 23 mm as i have a 24 (too big) and 21 (too small) !

I guess i could go buy both im sure i'll need them eventually but wondered if anybody knew

Thanks

 

[user 31223]

well i found an old socket from my Dad collection - 7/8ths - that fitted

 

[Bustanut joker]

All this just to change a tire? Good Gawd!

I could unnerstand if this was a first but...................

 

[RaYzerman19]

The front nut is 22 and the rear 27mm.

When undoing the calipers and ABS sensor, remove the small bolt (8 mm socket) in the clamp that holds the lines at the highest point and this will give you more slack to get the calipers out. Before you remove the calipers, pry them sideways a bit to push the brake pistons back in so the pads are not tight to the rotors. This will give you swing clearance to get the calipers out easily.

mcatrophy, if you're greasing the threads of bolts, you should reduce the torque at least 20%.......... I've also found that when tightening the pinch bolts, the FSM method will leave two of them loose. Just tighten them both evenly until they are the same...... again reduce the torque if you're greasing the threads.

 

[user 31223]

All this just to change a tire? Good Gawd!
I could unnerstand if this was a first but...................

For me it was a first - and i was changing the fork oil - another first for me - and that darn wheel got in the way !

 

[mcatrophy]

...mcatrophy, if you're greasing the threads of bolts, you should reduce the torque at least 20%.......... I've also found that when tightening the pinch bolts, the FSM method will leave two of them loose. Just tighten them both evenly until they are the same...... again reduce the torque if you're greasing the threads.

No problem for me reducing torque, I tighten them by feel . It's easier to feel "tight enough" if they're greased. If I was to do something like cylinder head bolts, then I would use a torque wrench to get the right stretch.
I learnt about tightening stuff by feel in my previous motorcycling incarnation, as a teenager with a Tiger Cub.

Too loose: it would shake itself out, too tight: it would strip the (soft aluminium) thread.

Curiously I find the FSM method for tightening the pinch bolts does work, after tightening the 1st, the 2nd, and the 1st again, rechecking the 2nd shows it's still tight. But I do always check, just for peace of mind.

 

[RossKean]

The service manual says:

a. Insert the front wheel axle from the right side
and tighten it with the front wheel axle bolt
from the left side to 91 Nm (9.1 m·kg, 66 ft·lb).
b. In the order pinch bolt “2” → pinch bolt “1” →
pinch bolt “2”, tighten each bolt to 21 Nm (2.1
m·kg, 15 ft·lb) without performing temporary
tightening...

There is NO suggestion that you are supposed to go back to pinch bolt "2" and re-torque although I have noticed that it does become fairly loose after pinch bolt "1" is torqued. It says, in fact, to tighten WITHOUT performing temporary tightening.

 

[Fred W]

We all know that there are several areas of the Yamaha FSM that give questionable advice. Any time there are paired pinch bolts, like the 2nd gen axle or the lower fork triple clamps, I would always iterate until both bolts are at the specified torque value.