Removing/disabling the ABS

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wetwolf

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Searched all over the web, and this forum. I've got an 05 w/abs. The rear abs doesn't work right. I can dynamite the pedal and the back tire locks up, which is what i expect from so many years on non abs bikes. The front does the ABS thing pulse, haven't actually locked that one all the way up yet, but then again, haven't tried.to, after all, it is the front brake.

IMHO, the ABS system on this bike is about 10 lbs worth of stuff that i don't need to ride safely, and I would rather lose the weight and free up some space.

Does anybody here know what it might take to get the thing back to the stone age of just a line from a master cylinder to a brake caliper to make it stop.

I can make the brake lines and handle all the hydraulic stuff, but what do I do with the wiring. I don't have a wiring diagram for the 05, so, i dont know how closely the ABS is connected to the ECM or dash panel.If I can just pull the abs brick unit and run a signal wire from the front or rear speed sensors to somewhere, thats fine. If i have to get a whole new wire harness, then it's not worth the trouble

So,,,,,, Just throwin it out there to see if anybody has an answer

Thanks for reading.

Bruce

 
Not sure about Gen1's but Gen2's rely on the ABS unit for a speed signal.

Hopefully somebody intelligent will be along shortly to help you out..........

 
Have u verified correct install position in the rear wheel ABS sensor?

Have u attempted to bleed or flush the brick?

I'm subtly trying to encourage u to reconsider fixing your ABS

 
Apparently the OP isn't interested in troubleshooting or fixing the ABS system, it just needs to be disposed of ASAP.

Just pull the ABS Control Unit fuse and disable that nasty, bad, heavy and unsafe braking system. The Gen I does not need any signals from the ABS unit for vehicle speed, ECU signals or dash signals. You can get a copy of the Owners Manual HERE which will show a map of the fuse box.

"...ABS system on this bike is about 10 lbs worth of stuff that i don't need to ride safely...I would rather lose the weight and free up some space...get the thing back to the stone age..." Just rip out that POS garbage and run brake lines from the rear master cylinder to the rear caliper and run a brake line from the front master cylinder to the Y banjo below the headlight. Leave the ABS sensor ring covers on the wheels as spacers and just cut the ABS wires off the sensors, leaving the sensors in place for weather protection. Get right in there with some hedge pruning clippers and get all that ABS wiring out. When you rip out all the wiring I would suggest that you take the White/Gold wire from the (now removed) ABS Control Unit connector that goes to the ECU and put a cap over the cut wire end to protect the ECU electronics. You may want to consider removing the Meter Assembly and taking out the ABS Warning light bulb. The ABS Warning light won't come on with the Control Unit fuse removed but it is more unnecessary ABS crap.

I'm not telling you to rip out the ABS system, I'm only replying to your request for information on how to get rid of that piece of crap ABS system that you don't need to help you, even in an emergency.

 
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So the ABS works on the front tire, which is the one that you really don't want to lock up, and you want to disable the what is, probably, the greatest safety improvement to a motorcycle? Interesting. My ABS has saved me several times. If it stopped working there would be no question about trying to fix it.

 
I was kinda wondering why anyone would want to do such a thing. The ABS has also saved my *** several times. I don't think I'd go back to non ABS, to save 10lbs. Change your diet, lose 10lbs, and fix the ABS.

 
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Dang it, it's Wednesday...but it feels like a Friday since I'm headed out the door to Hooterville right from work today.

I would provide a witty answer, but I can see many have already performed while being helpful at the same time. (is that allowed?)

 
05 rear ABS not working. I get to enjoy repairing mucho damage to my FJR thanks to this same problem. The front works, but the rear doesn't. This is (sad to say) all too common with the Gen 1. Sure wish somebody would successfully repair one of these ABS blocks and post up a "how to."

Gary

 
Thanks for all the replies guys.

ionbeam, thanx for clarifying that the vss doesn;t go thru the abs brick.

I just got the bike 2 months ago, already have 3K of saddle time. Gettin the suspension dialed in.

Will be doing the 50,000 mile everything this winter. Valves, pair removal, front forks, greasin the shaft splines, updated cam chain tensioner, etc, etc,etc.

I got a used feejer. Had i bought it new in 05, I wouldn't have gotten the abs model. I don't like abs. I don't like it on my cars, and i don't like it on my bikes. I seem to be one of those folks that can actually manage to chew gum and operate brakes all while farting the star strangled banana. I've managed to ride bikes for 42 years without abs and i'm still alive. Musta been the flat track days, there should be a little bit of sideways in every moto rider..

When it's up on the rack for the winter the clutch and the brakes will get flushed and new fluid, but since i am going to have all the plastic off, I figured it might be a nice time to do SS brake and clutch lines. Not that i am anal about the looks, but i do like the feel LOL.

So,,,,,,,,,

Can anybody actually answer the question??

Sure, i can pull the fuse and disable it, but then you have 10lbs of absolutely worthless **** on your bike.

Wow, this might be a fun forum.

Da Wolf

 
Can anybody actually answer the question??

Apparently the OP isn't interested in troubleshooting or fixing the ABS system, it just needs to be disposed of ASAP.
Just pull the ABS Control Unit fuse and disable that nasty, bad, heavy and unsafe braking system. The Gen I does not need any signals from the ABS unit for vehicle speed, ECU signals or dash signals. You can get a copy of the Owners Manual HERE which will show a map of the fuse box.

"...ABS system on this bike is about 10 lbs worth of stuff that i don't need to ride safely...I would rather lose the weight and free up some space...get the thing back to the stone age..." Just rip out that POS garbage and run brake lines from the rear master cylinder to the rear caliper and run a brake line from the front master cylinder to the Y banjo below the headlight. Leave the ABS sensor ring covers on the wheels as spacers and just cut the ABS wires off the sensors, leaving the sensors in place for weather protection. Get right in there with some hedge pruning clippers and get all that ABS wiring out. When you rip out all the wiring I would suggest that you take the White/Gold wire from the (now removed) ABS Control Unit connector that goes to the ECU and put a cap over the cut wire end to protect the ECU electronics. You may want to consider removing the Meter Assembly and taking out the ABS Warning light bulb. The ABS Warning light won't come on with the Control Unit fuse removed but it is more unnecessary ABS crap.

I'm not telling you to rip out the ABS system, I'm only replying to your request for information on how to get rid of that piece of crap ABS system that you don't need to help you, even in an emergency.

rolleyes.gif


 
Since the first gens came in both flavors, both with and without ABS, brake hoses are available for the non ABS models that will run directly from the master cylinder to calipers, which is what you would want to completely bypass the ABS hydraulic block, then you can just remove the whole thing.

You don't need to do anything with the wiring. It is not that closely integrated with the ECU and won't cause errors if it isn't there.

 
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^^^^ The front brake banjo joint under the headlight is different between the ABS and non-ABS models to accommodate the ABS connection, when removing the ABS system the non-ABS banjo will need to be ordered along with the new brake lines.

Real men don't need ABS because they are so talented they always brake better, in all situations. There a number of FJRiders who have removed the ABS system to improve safety and posted about it here in the Forum. I haven't read about any problems after removing the ABS system.

To go along with the ABS removal is time to look into stainless steel braided lines for a better, firmer lever feel. I wouldn't recommend this for ABS models but it is a whole lot easier to install a SS brake line kit on the now ABS free FJR. The front ABS banjo interferes with a fork brace, but with the non-ABS banjo below the headlight there is no interference. I'm sure that 'wolf can find a fork brace for his Gen I from someone on the Forum and stop most of the lateral fork twisting and fork flexing that plagues the Gen I FJR when ridden hard.

 
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I've been down in a situation that ABS would have saved my bacon. Removing a working ABS system is frankly ...... dumb. In my opinion.

As for the rear locking and the front working, the solenoids in the control unit can freeze up, especially with non-use. ABS owners have learned to "exercise" the ABS once in a while.

There is no repair other than a complete control unit replacement. Nevertheless, as long as the front works (you get the pulse) you really ought to leave it alone. 10 pounds is a guess, and not worth going after.

If you can tell how much gas is in the tank by how the bike feels and runs, then go for the 10 pounds, but since gasoline is about 6 pounds a gallon, and i personally can't tell the difference between a bike with a full tank and one with an empty one (thus nearly 40 pounds difference,) i don't see making any effort at all to recover ten pounds of hardware weight.

 
I had planned on SS brake lines, we have a hose shop here in town that makes them for me. I would prolly go with duals from the front MC to the calipers. I was mostly concerned with the electronics. Thanks for the responses>

Da Wolf

 
No. Gen 1 brakes are not linked. And linked brakes can have ABS or not. The functions are not related.

 
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