Replacing brake and clutch hoses

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Constant Mesh

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It's recommended that these hoses be replaced every four years -- per Owner's Manual. So everyone with a 2005 or earlier FJR should have replaced their hoses.

Have you?

 
I upgraded the front brake lines with Galfers years ago but the rest are OEM, good reminder to check for dry rot and such. I love the silky clutch on my '05 BTW.

 
Replaced them all last year with Galfer Brake Lines. By the way the clutch line is solid tube for part of it. Have fun removing it from around the engine.

 
Gunny to the galfers. i replaced the brake and clutch lines ~a year ago. removing the clutch line is a PIA.

cadman

 
All OEM on my '05 except the clutch line. I have been thinking about replacing them more lately

Bill

 
Gunny to the galfers. i replaced the brake and clutch lines ~a year ago. removing the clutch line is a PIA.
Gunny when I first bought my used FeeJ.
The clutch line isn't that bad to remove. Two fasteners and brackets on the inner frame are a slight challenge, well maybe just one, the other was easy. If you know up front where the line and fastener are it's, no biggie. Besides, just rip the sucker out, you're not going to use it again. The best improvement are SS lines. You'll never have to replace them. IMHO they greatly improve braking and feel.

BTW - The SS lines (Galfer) are only torqued at like 12Ft.lbs. (check your mfgr first for specific torque value) The after market banjo bolts can't take the stock 22Ft.Lbs. torque requirement.

If you're moderately mechanically inclined, and or have done brakes or brake lines before, go for it. It's not that big of a deal.

Good luck.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
[quote name='cadman' post='765056' date='Jul 19 2010, 06:03 PM'
BTW - The SS lines (Galfer) are only torqued at like 12Ft.lbs. (check your mfgr first for specific torque value) The after market banjo bolts can't take the stock 22Ft.Lbs. torque requirement.
Yea, the factory tends to double the torque numbers on some fasteners. Go 22 on an aftermarket fitting and you have deformed brass and a nasty leak. I go old school and just 'feel' what it takes.

After replacing both sets of wheel bearings @ 45K on my '05 I tend to leave the torque wrench out of the equation or back the puppy down by 20% at least.

 
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