Rickey Rocket has a near hit.

[ULEWZ]

By the way, the bike only has 1100 miles on it (bought it almost brand new and it is a 2007), so I would guess, but not be positive, that the TPS is still in adjustment. If it is thought this is not normal, I will check/adjust the TPS and do a throttle sync. Any guesses, as what I read was a power commander is needed?

 

[madmike2]

By the way, the bike only has 1100 miles on it (bought it almost brand new and it is a 2007), so I would guess, but not be positive, that the TPS is still in adjustment. If it is thought this is not normal, I will check/adjust the TPS and do a throttle sync. Any guesses, as what I read was a power commander is needed?

There were some TPS issues and some were replaced by Yamaha. You might have a dealer run your VIN to see if yours in within that number range.

Also, IIRC, 2007 had throttle tube issues. The throttle body pulley is cam-shaped so there is a definite "ramp" to throttle application. There is an aftermarket "G-2" throttle tube that offsets the throttle body pulley so the throttle application is linear.

Here's a link using Google: G2 throttle tube site:fjrforum.com

 

[exskibum]

I ride there all the time and the tar snakes are not that bad and the grip is good. Those turns can easily be taken faster on a sportbike, he just ran out of talent. Since I sold my R1, I take those turns at a measly 55 to keep from scraping. I upped my settings to 8/8, rebound to 2, added 15cc's of fork oil to each fork (I hate to bottom out), rear on hard, ordered some adjustable pegs (won't ship until the 29th of July!)and 5/8 inch smaller dogbones (won't ship until July 18th!) to raise the rear end. Then I might have the confidence to go faster again, but not right now. Oh, that 3,000 to 4,000 rpm throttle lag sucks also, so I guess a power commander is in my future.

madmike and dcarver make good points. Like Wheaton, I'd say those symptoms are NOT what I experience on my Gen I FJR, nor what I'd want on a bike I ride in the twisties often.

I kinda winced on your fixes, though, fearing you're spending money going the wrong direction. Bear with me on that -- just trying to save you aggravation and $$ -- I ride twisties hard on mine all the time.

First, fix the suspension. The OEM springs and set up just ain't gonna get it done (esp. considering you came off an R1). Do a ride in at GP Suspension in Oregon City, Oregon for your front and rear, and put a Penske back there. Lots more to say: I'm not the only one to have posted about suspensions, dragging pipes (e.g., my Muzzy 4-2-1 dragging only being fixed when the underspringing is fixed, etc., etc.). What I wouldn't do is jack up the rear end enough to make any clearance difference. Been there, done that; the bike hunts, darts and twitches on slab before you have made enough difference in the clearance and cornering problems.

As to the throttle, consider what madmike said. It shouldn't be that way, and there were ECU, TBS and throttle tube issues with the early Gen IIs. I've got a Dynojet Power Commander III on my Gen. I, mostly to tune for the Muzzy. I adjust almost all the throttle cable play out (leaving just enough that turning the bars to the stops doesn't affect the throttle), and it feathers between my index finger and thumb perfectly predictably in all RPM ranges.

It's not a sport bike (too heavy, wide and pegs are never going to give sufficient clearance), but with the right suspension and some body english when pushing it hard, it's surprisingly agile for a pig.

Good luck sorting yours out -- it's hard not to love an FJR when you get it right, because it does so many things so reasonably well.

 

[Fred W]

I find the FJR is harder to ride in the upper rpm range. It tends to lunge when transitioning from off throttle to on throttle. I think the injectors completely shut off with the throttle closed to save gas or emissions, and would benefit from a power commander. Maybe it is the drive shaft engaging and disengaging?

The FJR is not great with low speed tight turns and that is where the throttle lag occurs the most for me. You twist the throttle and nothing happens, then you give it a bit more throttle and it takes off like you just hit the afterburner!

This usually happens during a long hot ride and is very frustrating.

Contrary to what others have said, I will tell you that Yes, your intuition is correct. The FJR Fuel Injection system does indeed cut all fuel under certain trailing throttle conditions (such as those you describe) just the same as many other fuel injected bikes do. This "feature" does make the off throttle to on throttle transition a bit jerky. Try as I might, even by adding fuel in the zero throttle column of the PCIII fuel map, I am unable to completely eradicate this behavior. I believe that the cutting of fuel in this situation is not just due to the fuel map, but something else in the firmware. Other people have noticed this behavior as well, so it is not isolated to only a few bikes. Some people are just less sensitive to these sorts of things, perhaps due to the way that they ride.

Anyone that has recently been riding a carburetted bike, where the fueling continues unabated on trailing throttle, will feel a huge difference in the softness (or lack thereof) of these throttle transitions.

Some of the best (and most effective) advice I've heard on this is to try not to chop the throttle fully in any sort of cornering manuever where you are likely to want to roll back on mid corner. You can roll off, but not to the stops, and use judicious trail braking. So long as the throttle doesn't reach the zero position the ECU doesn't seem to fully cut the fueling.

Side note: I had some similar concerns with the off to on transitions on my 2004 Suzuki V-strom, also a fuel injected bike. I found that by adjusting the idle speed up by 500 rpm (from 1000 to 1500) the trailing throttle transitions became incredibly softer. I believe that the higher throttle stop was disallowing the TPS from ever reaching the zero position. I like that kind of performance, and have lkeft it as is. I do not know if this would work on an FJR, but is some food for thought. Maybe this is a way to beat the fuel cutoff on overrun.

Executive version: Yeah, it's jerky OFF to ON throttle.

No a PCIII will not fix that.

No a TBS or TPS adjust will not likely fix it (see last paragraph... perhaps a TPS mis-adjust will).

No, it is most certainly NOT a sport bike, but it is still a hell of fine bike for what it is. If you can adapt to it, you will have a long and happy relationship.

 

[ULEWZ]

Great information, but disappointing that the PCIII will not fix it. I just did the barbarian mod (extremely easy I might add) and bumped all cylinders up by 10, Cyl 1 was 5, 2 and 3 were 18, and 4 was 21. I already upped the idle to 1100, but 1500 may be better and also removed the throttle slack (center spring unwind also which helps). I also discovered that my model is affected by the ECU recall and the symptoms are dead on to my problem. I did not realize it was during an elevation transition, but in both cases I was changing altitude (once going up and once going down). I will call my dealer to see if I can get the free ECU fix.

 

[wheatonFJR]

Wow Fred.

Never experienced that sudden jerkiness that you describe. Glad I don't have a standard FJR I guess.

 

[supertankerm60a3]

What I don't understand about that whole puckering episode is why the squid didn't immediately erase that video?

I have throttle jerk too. High RPM twisties are where it shows up. Riding it like a H-D makes it go away.

 

[rfulcher]

The PC3 fixed my 2007, it had a very slight surge at low steady throttle and throttle response was not smooth. I had to be very controlled with the throttle to be smooth in tight corners with linked turns. I tried the G2 throttle tube, the barbarian mod, throttle cable adjustment, and throttle sych. All of these helped but did not fix the problem. I installed a PC3 and this fixed the problem completely. In tight twisty turns when I am pushing the bike hard I frequently run the the RPMs in the upper 1/3 and it is very smooth, almost like a rheostat.

I also had problems with ground clearance and fixed it with a Lee Parks course and suspension mods. I installed a Penske rear shock and changed fork oil and springs to match my weight. The Penske raised the rear slightly and the mods gave significantly better ground clearance and make the bike much better in the turns.