Russell Seat, Adjustable Links, Adjustable Kick Stand, Heli Bar Installation.

[stuck amals]

First off, I'd rather ride my Norton than any other bike. BUT, I also like riding two up with my wife. This takes the fun out of riding a Norton. So a year ago, after searching high and low for an FJR, I purchased a 2006 model with 7600 miles.

About a month later we took a 1500 mile round trip road trip. It was then I discovered I needed to do something about the seat. After listening to advice from scores of people I took what I considered to be the best advise - "don't screw around with Gel-Pads or beaded covers or other seats just bite the bullet and get a Russell". And that's what I did.

The seat came, earlier than promised, and I put it on. It was a great improvement as far as my butt goes but it made my back and shoulders sore. And it sat a little higher. I was almost on my tiptoes at stop lights.

The bike came with a new, still in the box, Heli bar. I paid the local Yamaha dealer $150.00 to install it. This seems to correct the problem with my sore back. I am now sitting in a more upright position. But I'm still sitting to high.

I ordered adjustable suspension links and an adjustable side stand from Soupy's - they were even on sale at about $225.00 total. Installing the links looked like a piece of cake until I discovered I needed the links with the larger holes. So I pretty much ruined two drill bits before throwing in the towel and ordering the proper ends Soupy's. $45.00 and two days later they were in my mailbox.

Taking the old ends off and putting the new ends on was a bit of a hassle. But once that was done actually installing the links was quite easy. i put the bike on the center stand and adjusted the links. I adjusted them until they were about 2 inches longer than the original dog bones. At this point the rear wheel is about 4 inches off the ground. I made the new kick stand about 1 inch shorter than stock and installed it.

The bike came down off the center stand with a bit of a bounce. Just for fun I tried to put it back on the center stand - no way. I rolled the rear wheel up on a piece of 2x4 and was able to put it back on the center stand. By dumb luck the length of the new kick stand was correct. The best part was I was sitting on the bike my feet were flat on the ground.

After a short ride today I'm very pleased with outcome. I'm ready for another trip.

Somewhere on this forum I read about someone who modified their center stand so it would work with lowering links but I can't seem to find it.

 

[Hornet Pilot]

You might find that your adjustable link made 2" longer then the stock links may be a bit too much. I think using a link length of 1" longer will lower your bike approx. 7/8". However, you also should lower the front end an equal amount by raising the forks in the triple clamps. That way your bikes suspension geometry will be approximately the same as stock. Also keep in mind that when you lower the suspension your ground clearance will be less and you'll have to be xtra careful over speed bumps, driveway transtions, cornering aggressively, etc. Very easy to crush your exhaust pipes! You can modify the center stand but why not just use the 2x4 trick unless you use the center stand alot when out on rides?

 

[stuck amals]

I was contemplating lowering the front forks but haven't quite figured it out. Am I right to assume it's just a matter of loosening the pinch bolts slightly and letting the fork tubes ride up?

I do like the height the way it is now. I will be mindful of the lower clearances. If it becomes a problem I can make adjustments.

Thanks for your advice.

 

[escapefjrtist]

<snip> Am I right to assume it's just a matter of loosening the pinch bolts slightly and letting the fork tubes ride up?

That's the ticket, just make sure both tubes are raised an equal amount above the triple clamp.

--G

 

[richsp51]

I lowered the front of my GEN II 10 mm following the install of Soupy's link lowering of 20 mm using the following method:

First put the bike on the center stand to take some load off the front and to put equal load on each tube.
Then loosen the 2 lower and 1 upper pinch bolts...lowers FIRST...on each side. Loosen the lower ones to finger tight THEN carefully loosen the upper pinch bolts little by little and put a some load on the triple tree until the tubes slide up.

Measure to make sure each tube has slid up the same amount. Adjust as necessary to make sure they are equal. I used a caliper to measure. Tighten the top pinch bolts part way so the tubes are secure, then proceeded to tighten the all the lower pinch bolts to about 17 ft lbs. Finally, tighten the upper pinch bolts to 24 ft lbs.

Regarding the lower pinch bolts being tightened to "about 17 ft lbs" ... I couldn't get a torgue wrench on 3 of the 4 , but tightened by feel based on the one I was able to get the torque wrench on.

 

[RaYzerman19]

I'd venture to say if you lowered the front end a bit, you wouldn't have to go as much on the rear. This would keep front/rear lowering amount about the same, to preserve the handling.