Rust

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bill Lumberg

Merica
Joined
Oct 22, 2014
Messages
1,837
Reaction score
506
Location
USA
Picked my '14 up from the dealership to store it at home until Yamaha can unfuck itself and fix it. In addition to the cable bracket on the left side of the triple tree being unattached, the gas tank is rusted. That is to say, the part that touches the rubber gasket on the gas cap is rusted. (The dealer leaves bikes in for service outside all day every day, only storing them at night, which means that while mine was ridden in all kinds of conditions, the extended dealership stay has been the first time it's ever been stored outside in the elements). What do you recommend to treat this area that is unlikely to affect fuel/injectors/operation? I could just take a finger of light oil and go around it, but I thought I'd ask.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Bill,

Not sure if this will work for your application but Por-15 makes a gas tank sealer. The regular Por-15 is fantastic on exposed rust when used in their 3 part system (clean, treat & seal).

I have been following your plight with Yamaha. Wishing you the best in getting it remedied. I think they owe you a replacement....

 
On a 2014, a tank recoat would cause me to set it on fire. But I agree, that is the proper way to do it. On an old bike that should need it.

 
There are rust converters that turn rust into a ready-to-paint finish..... I'd gently clean it with a fine Scotch-Brite and coat it...... I don't think I'd paint it, paint doesn't withstand contact with fuel over the long haul. Meanwhile, I think lots of us got that rust issue.

Now that you got the rig back home...... time to try a new TPS? while waiting for further action?

 
Yes, do try any of the 'rust reformers' they chemically convert the oxidized metal and that's that, no paint needed.

Tomorrow or Monday I will complete an autopsy of a Gen III TPS which was replaced and solved a driveability issue for a TX Forumite. It may lead to an easy way to diagnose a TPS which doesn't work but passes a DIAG test but it should reveal the failure mode.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just be absolutely sure you don't get any rust crumbs in the tank while you're cleaning up the problem area. Iron oxide is bad bad bad.

 
Well, if you recall, the problem went from nuisance to not ride-able. The shop replaced the plugs a third time (they did it the first time it was in the shop for the problem, did it again at the direction of the Yamaha roving tech a couple of weeks ago, and I had done it before I ever took the bike in for the problem in April 2016). The fact that the bike got worse and worse I wrote off as the part that is failing getting worse. But I believe, at this point, that part of the roll-on of symptoms, from notable to dance-with-death, are from plugs getting fouled. Replacing the plugs in April seemed to temporarily roll the problem back to the level it was at when it initially presented itself. And such seems to be the case this time. Still not something you'd want to ride, but I didn't see the whiplash yesterday trying it out in the cul-de-sac. Just herky jerks. To recap, IAW the thread topic, I have a meticulously maintained 2014 with rust on lip of the tank, a fuel cap assembly that wasn't even finger tight, no fasteners in the collar between the tank/seat, an unsecured wiring harness on the left side of the triple tree, foam padding of some sort sticking out at the edge of the bottom of the fairing, and an engine blanket that's not in proper position. And that's what I could see walking around it. Here's to you, Freedom Powersports of Canton, GA.
good.gif
Merica.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dammit Bill, reading this is getting my blood pressure up. Sounds like it might be time to climb the Yamaha corporate ladder and don't stop until you get the satisfaction you deserve. If the dealer want's to charge top notch premium rates for their work, then they get to provide top notch premium service along with it, it's a two way street imho, warranty work or not. Yamaha needs to know about this dealer that's wearing their sign out front. Best of luck to you with the repairs

 
What NTXFJR said. I said it in your other thread, and I'll say it again: You need to get WAY more agressive. As long as they can keep stealing your lunch money, they'll keep doing it. Raise Hell. Force them to notice you and refuse to go away until they fix it correctly.

 
I've been as vocal as can be with Yamaha. Many people know my name. This is the first problem if this nature I've had with the dealer since I bought the bike. I'm going by Tuesday or Wednesday.

 
Yep. I feel like the world's biggest whiner. But it's just been a streak of unfortunate situations regarding the bike. Frustrating, but there are worse problems to have. Hopefully, by mid October, it'll be running properly again and all the comically bad performance by the company and the dealer will be behind me.

 
You're not whining. What you describe is why so many people do not want to let the dealer ever touch their bike.

That kind of irresponsible button up deserves a special award from Yamaha, and someone needs to be taken to the wood shed.

Honestly, if it were me, I'd try to get it sorted out to an acceptable level and then I'd be taking the bike to a different marque as trade fodder.

I would not want to stick another rider with the trouble. But dealers are hardened bargainers, and fair is fair. Take it and trade it. Maybe a nice BMW, Triumph, or Honda would be worth a look.

One thing's for sure ... if you've been making enough noise so that the principals know your name at that dealership, and you still get the bike handed back to you like it was buttoned up by wash monkeys, you don't want to fool with that dealership any further.

Feel free to share our thoughts with them.

 
We've all had our issues, whether it be General Motors or Yamaha, it's tough dealing with corporate, and to get them to see things on your level?. Could be one of the reasons why so many have lost there hair.

Wishing you the best, Bill! :)

 
Yes, do try any of the 'rust reformers' they chemically convert the oxidized metal and that's that, no paint needed.
Tomorrow or Monday I will complete an autopsy of a Gen III TPS which was replaced and solved a driveability issue for a TX Forumite. It may lead to an easy way to diagnose a TPS which doesn't work but passes a DIAG test but it should reveal the failure mode.
Any luck with the TPS post-mortem?

Edit: Nevermind - I see the separate thread.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top