Setting Up A 2013 FJR for LD Riding

[Shuey]

One area that may need addressing is the rear.....subframe structure. The Pelican doesn't appear to be far back but not sure how much weight you are planning on adding in there.

That's a good point and has been addressed. The stock piece on the rear has the rear mounting platform for a top box or whatever and a handle on each side. It attaches to the bike with 3 bolts. That was removed.

Longer bolts were used to bolt my custom mounting deck, through 3 custom built extension pieces (about 2" high) to raise the deck above the seat, then into the stock bolt holes in the frame. It's rock solid . . . no worries.

The Pelican is now bolted to to the deck, but will be moved up when an aux fuel cell gets sandwiched under it.

Shuey

Think I understand your mod but it's the actual subframe on the bike that is suspect when stressed. Material used could be better suited for a load. If I'm not correct about your changes just disregard the mumblings of this older FJR enjoyer. Go out an LD it!

Hmmm . . . after my rear shock "learning experience" I'm maybe more appreciative of information provided by those more knowledgeable than I. Thanks for coming back at this. After seeing the loads racked up on several IBR FJRs maybe I've made an inaccurate assumption here. I'll get some expert advise and take a much closer look at this issue.

Anyone else have any information on subframe limitations?

Shuey

Rear Sub Frame Stiffener -- https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/154924-gen23-subframe-stiffy-kit-by-garauld/

Thanks Wlfman. Already exchanged emails with Gary and am taking a closer look to understand the problem and the solution.

Shuey

 

[maggot]

What's the purpose of the amplirider with an autocom in place?

 

[Shuey]

What's the purpose of the amplirider with an autocom in place?

Nothing complicated.

Primarily it's an amplifier that allows everything with sound output to be passed through it. Then it has a master volume control that makes volume adjustment . . . easy breezy. Coupled with custom fitted stereo earplugs I can adjust the individual volumes of all devices by about 50-60%.

Shuey

 

[maggot]

Thanks for that...

 

[Shuey]

Thanks for that...

Anytime. We "training pilots" have to . . . stick together!

Shuey

 

[huron52]

A friend of mine thought I would be interested in your bike. He sent me a link from th ST owners forum. Little more than I would put on a bike..... but then mine is not totally stock either.

 

[Shuey]

A friend of mine thought I would be interested in your bike. He sent me a link from th ST owners forum. Little more than I would put on a bike..... but then mine is not totally stock either.

Well, if there's something on my bike that gives you at least one idea to make yours more comfortable for you, then my posts in this regard . . . are a success.

BTW, the detailed pics your friend referenced were posted here on this thread first, for FJR enthusiasts.

Shuey

 

[Shuey]

Shuey,
I love what you are doing in setting up your FJR.

Question: It's hard to tell from the pictures, but what are the microswitches you are using for on/off on the Erica's and powering up your GPS's?

Thanks,

Tanker

Hey Tanker,

I didn't forget your question, it just . . . took me a little longer than I thought to track down most of the info.

The switches are made by JUDCO Manufacturing in CA, but they don't sell retail. I just ordered some from their vendor in MN: Digi-Key (digikey.com). Great people at both locations willing to share knowledge and information. The switches I have are Item# 512PB-ND, Switch, Pushbutton, 10A, 14V, $1.548/ea. Matched to them are rubber boots that just screw on over the push button making it waterproof: Item# 513PB-ND, Boot Rubber/Nut Tall, Black, $0.572/ea.

Now, in talking with Kevin, a tech guy at JUDCO, he recommended I try a different switch that should work better at the low amperage draws my LEDs consume. So, I ordered some of them also (came in today) and I'll swap one of them out and give it a try. Item# 567PB-ND, Switch, Pushbutton, 5A, 14V, $2.905/ea. It's more expensive because there's gold in it!

Now, the last piece, that I'm still looking for is the bracket that fits over the handlebar using the brake fluid reservoir bracket (with longer bolts) like RAM mounts. I'll submit another post as soon as I've found it. Two of the push button switches fit in it perfectly and I thought that JUDCO would know all about it, but . . . nooooo. The search is on.

Hope that helps,

Shuey

PS: If anyone orders some switches from Digi-Key, tell them "Shuey sent me!" Can't hurt.

 

[Tanker]

Shuey,

I love what you are doing in setting up your FJR.

Question: It's hard to tell from the pictures, but what are the microswitches you are using for on/off on the Erica's and powering up your GPS's?

Thanks,

Tanker

Hey Tanker,
I didn't forget your question, it just . . . took me a little longer than I thought to track down most of the info.

The switches are made by JUDCO Manufacturing in CA, but they don't sell retail. I just ordered some from their vendor in MN: Digi-Key (digikey.com). Great people at both locations willing to share knowledge and information. The switches I have are Item# 512PB-ND, Switch, Pushbutton, 10A, 14V, $1.548/ea. Matched to them are rubber boots that just screw on over the push button making it waterproof: Item# 513PB-ND, Boot Rubber/Nut Tall, Black, $0.572/ea.

Now, in talking with Kevin, a tech guy at JUDCO, he recommended I try a different switch that should work better at the low amperage draws my LEDs consume. So, I ordered some of them also (came in today) and I'll swap one of them out and give it a try. Item# 567PB-ND, Switch, Pushbutton, 5A, 14V, $2.905/ea. It's more expensive because there's gold in it!

Now, the last piece, that I'm still looking for is the bracket that fits over the handlebar using the brake fluid reservoir bracket (with longer bolts) like RAM mounts. I'll submit another post as soon as I've found it. Two of the push button switches fit in it perfectly and I thought that JUDCO would know all about it, but . . . nooooo. The search is on.

Hope that helps,

Shuey

PS: If anyone orders some switches from Digi-Key, tell them "Shuey sent me!" Can't hurt.

Thanks for the information Shuey!!!

I'll take a look at these on-line and verify by needs and order some up.

It is good timing as I'm going to be taking off the panels soon and start all the electrical work on my 14'

I'll keep an eye out for your updated post on the bracket when you find out more.

This helps a lot.

Thanks again,

Todd

 

[Lipps]

Shuey,

Perhaps this is the switch mount that you used?

https://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=BrakePerSw_2

I like what you've done with the bike and I'm stealing some of your ideas.

-Erik

 

[Shuey]

Shuey,
Perhaps this is the switch mount that you used?

https://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=BrakePerSw_2

I like what you've done with the bike and I'm stealing some of your ideas.

-Erik

Erik, indeed . . . that's the one! Thanks for finding it and sharing where to get it.

The ideas aren't stolen if freely given. Have fun and I'll be interested in what you come up with.

Shuey

 

[red2kcbr]

Maybe it's just understood, but I didn't see anything in this thread about radiator protection. I built a screen for my '05 from some steel mesh and thin aluminum that I vised shut for edging. I know it saved me at least once, because I had a rock ding that nearly penetrated the mesh that I am certain would have pierced the coolant passages in the radiator.

The '13 and '14, with that curved radiator, may be more problematic to build a screen, but I find it mighty cheap insurance.

I like your LD setup, very nice.

 

[Shuey]

Maybe it's just understood, but I didn't see anything in this thread about radiator protection. I built a screen for my '05 from some steel mesh and thin aluminum that I vised shut for edging. I know it saved me at least once, because I had a rock ding that nearly penetrated the mesh that I am certain would have pierced the coolant passages in the radiator.
The '13 and '14, with that curved radiator, may be more problematic to build a screen, but I find it mighty cheap insurance.

I like your LD setup, very nice.

Glad you like the setup and most of the credit goes to Kreis at the stshop.com. Great guy who really knows his stuff.

As to the radiator needing protection. I appreciate the thought but will forgo extra protection for now.

Shuey

 

[Justin]

Coming along very nice

Are those clearwater light brackets made of aluminum or steel?

 

[Shuey]

Coming along very nice

Are those clearwater light brackets made of aluminum or steel?

I'm no expert, but they seem like either powder coated steel or anodized steel. Pretty sure they're not aluminum . . . but, I'll give them a call early this week to verify and let you know.

Shuey

 

[Justin]

Coming along very nice

Are those clearwater light brackets made of aluminum or steel?

I'm no expert, but they seem like either powder coated steel or anodized steel. Pretty sure they're not aluminum . . . but, I'll give them a call early this week to verify and let you know.

Shuey

No need to call - just curious. I had aluminum brackets with 2 lights on each and they vibrated like crazy. You're probably right about them being steel. I since managed to find an old set of BLM brackets and no more vibes for me.

 

[Brodie]

Hi Shuey.

I see that you are using the Doran TPMS on your bike. Did you mount the tire sensors inside your wheels? If so, are you using the right angle valve stems supplied by their kit, or have you found another lower profile 90 deg. valve stem that will do the job?

That is a sweet ride that you have built up. I've gleaned a few ideas from it that appeal to me. Thanks for posting the pictures.

The rear fender looks a bit sparse, you have room for another Pelican box under your license plate. I keep my first aid kit in mine.

It's a simple add on, however, you will need to extend the license plate light to keep it functional.

By the way, those are red LED Glendas back there flanking the Pelican box. Low intensity complements the tail light. Full intensity lights up the road a 1/4 mile back when I apply my brakes.

Good luck with your Iron Butt adventures, and enjoy the ride.

Brodie

 

[Brodie]

Coming along very nice

Are those clearwater light brackets made of aluminum or steel?

I'm no expert, but they seem like either powder coated steel or anodized steel. Pretty sure they're not aluminum . . . but, I'll give them a call early this week to verify and let you know.

Shuey

Glenn tells me that they are powder coated stainless steel. If the coating gets chipped it still will not rust. They are solid and work extremely well, however you will need to buy his lights to get them.

Brodie

 

[Shuey]

Coming along very nice

Are those clearwater light brackets made of aluminum or steel?

I'm no expert, but they seem like either powder coated steel or anodized steel. Pretty sure they're not aluminum . . . but, I'll give them a call early this week to verify and let you know.

Shuey

No need to call - just curious. I had aluminum brackets with 2 lights on each and they vibrated like crazy. You're probably right about them being steel. I since managed to find an old set of BLM brackets and no more vibes for me.

Well . . . thanks to Brodie the question has been definitively answered. I didn't guess the stainless aspect, makes them even better. Note, with two sets of lights hanging on the brackets, they do vibrate just a little on bumps in the road, but I'm told that's a good thing. The bracket shaking a little reduces the stress where the bracket spreads it's pressure against the bike plastic. If true, sounds good to me.

Shuey

 

[Shuey]

Hi Shuey.
I see that you are using the Doran TPMS on your bike. Did you mount the tire sensors inside your wheels? If so, are you using the right angle valve stems supplied by their kit, or have you found another lower profile 90 deg. valve stem that will do the job?

That is a sweet ride that you have built up. I've gleaned a few ideas from it that appeal to me. Thanks for posting the pictures.

The rear fender looks a bit sparse, you have room for another Pelican box under your license plate. I keep my first aid kit in mine.

It's a simple add on, however, you will need to extend the license plate light to keep it functional.

By the way, those are red LED Glendas back there flanking the Pelican box. Low intensity complements the tail light. Full intensity lights up the road a 1/4 mile back when I apply my brakes.

Good luck with your Iron Butt adventures, and enjoy the ride.

Brodie

Appreciate the info Brodie and thanks for contacting Glenn so quickly. I was guessing he'd be a Daytona this week, so I was going to call him tomorrow or Tuesday after he got back to CA.

Yep, I'm using the Doran which has proven itself to be very reliable. The stems provided by Doran are much to high off the rim to clear the calipers, so I'm using the Ariete aluminum stems which are lower and shorter. The back sensor fits fine, plenty of room. The front sensor is close but clears just fine angled just enough off the center flange to enable unscrewing it.

Remember, if the bike is going to sit, take the sensors off to turn off their internal batteries. I just leave mine on all the time and they last 2 solid years with plenty of low battery warning before they quit. Spares are in the side case.

License plate Pelican box storage . . . GREAT idea. Thanks. Whick Pelican did you use?

Shuey