Sh.. 48 fault code

[Brandon]

I installed my CC-100 a couple weeks back, but have not been able to get to ride with it because I have a persistant Sh.. 48 code upon start up. Manual says to adjust idle, but turning the idle screw has absolutely no affect. Next step in the manual is to replace ALL throttle bodies :dribble: !! Those puppies aren't cheap!

What could I have done during my install that would affect the sensor SO badly that I need NEW throttle bodies!?

Also have a persistent leak on the right coolant pipe connection to the engine block. 2 sets of o-rings, seemingly never ending loosening and tightening, still pushing coolant.

Anyone in Vegas want to come take a look at the basket case?

Thoughts?

 

[BobMercer]

Brandon,

The only experience I have had with the SH48 failure was sitting at a red light in first gear and noticing that my idle speed had not dropped below about 1500 rpm. When I attempted to accelerate, there was no clutch engagement. A safety feature, I guess. After a few attempts to move, I decided to shut her off. I restarted and the idle dropped to 1100 and was able to accelerate normally. Reading up on the problem suggested that the idle should be about 1000rpm to avoid the SH48 problem.

If you are unable to lower your idle speed, perhaps your CC100 installation has introduced a vacuum leak. Good luck with a fix.

Bob

 

[Bustanut joker]

Going out on a limb here, and not being a wiseass..

Have you checked to see if the chain from the CC unit is loose enough?

 

[ionbeam]

I installed my CC-100 a couple weeks back, but have not been able to get to ride with it because I have a persistant Sh.. 48 code upon start up. Manual says to adjust idle, but turning the idle screw has absolutely no affect...Thoughts?

Yes, check your throttle for free play by rotating the grip. Spec says free play should be 0.12 to 0.2 inches.

Take a careful look at the bead chain and the attachment point on the throttle tab. There is an excellent chance that you will see that it is hanging up someplace and not allowing the throttle tab sit on the throttle tab stop at idle. The tab must contact the throttle stop. On this Gen I the pin the tab rests on is the tip of the adjuster cable, turning the adjuster moves the pin up and down which moves the throttle tab up/down to adjust idle speed. Your Gen II I believe has a different idle speed adjustment.

Did you pull the injectors to drill the throttle tab?

 

[Brandon]

good thoughts so far:

I have indeed checked that the chain is both loose enough end that the tab is still returning to the stop.

I did remove the injectors for the install.

I'll go double check that is indeed hitting the stop, and verify my vacuum (didn't think about that).

 

[chrisflock]

good thoughts so far:

I have indeed checked that the chain is both loose enough end that the tab is still returning to the stop.

I did remove the injectors for the install.

I'll go double check that is indeed hitting the stop, and verify my vacuum (didn't think about that).

We're all guessing that the reason for the code is too high an idle speed...

So, uh, what's the bike idling at?

 

[Brandon]

good thoughts so far:

I have indeed checked that the chain is both loose enough end that the tab is still returning to the stop.

I did remove the injectors for the install.

I'll go double check that is indeed hitting the stop, and verify my vacuum (didn't think about that).

We're all guessing that the reason for the code is too high an idle speed...

So, uh, what's the bike idling at?

Higher than normal. .1500-1800 rpm. With seemingly no way to reduce it!

Edit: Just went to run it again. Idle starts at 1300 and continuously climbs until about 1900 and I get the Sh..48 code. I can't run it any further because of that blasted leak at the coolant tube. Am I missing something on reinstalling that thing? I've gone through 2 sets of o-rings and still can't get it sealed to prevent coolant from coming up through the flange. I've had it on both sides, so I'm fairly confident it isn't a crack or anything.

Before the Sh. code popped on, I tried shifting, and was unable to do so. This is getting pretty frusterating.

 

[Harald]

Not sure how you plumbed the vacume for your cruise, but a sure fire way to check whether you have a leak is to use a Mity Vac (with gauge) and evacuate the system and check whether it bleeds down. Hook the Mity vac up to the plumbing where it's connected to the throttle body.

A couple suggestions with the coolant pipe is to make sure the bores are thoroughly cleaned because crud does collect down in the bores and crud will cause leaks. Also make sure to lube the o-rings before installing them so they'll slide and not roll or distort while being installed. You can use vaseline if you don't have specific o-ring lube.

 

[Brandon]

Not sure how you plumbed the vacume for your cruise, but a sure fire way to check whether you have a leak is to use a Mity Vac (with gauge) and evacuate the system and check whether it bleeds down. Hook the Mity vac up to the plumbing where it's connected to the throttle body.

A couple suggestions with the coolant pipe is to make sure the bores are thoroughly cleaned because crud does collect down in the bores and crud will cause leaks. Also make sure to lube the o-rings before installing them so they'll slide and not roll or distort while being installed. You can use vaseline if you don't have specific o-ring lube.

I did the fuel canister to check valve to single vacuum port (#4 auxiliary port).

I did NOT lube the o-rings, so I guess I'll pull off the pipe and relube. I tried like hell to make sure the bores were debris free, but i may have missed something, so I'll double check that.

 

[olsonm3915]

Did you lube the injector O-rings? Did you replace the injector O-rings? The manual says to use new ones anytime the injectors are removed.

 

[03HiYoSilver]

If you did a TBS, make sure all your Vacuum Nipples are in place and not Cut.

 

[Brandon]

Did you lube the injector O-rings? Did you replace the injector O-rings? The manual says to use new ones anytime the injectors are removed.

All replaced. But I did not lube them. But i am not seeing (or hearing) any evidence of a leak along them.

If you did a TBS, make sure all your Vacuum Nipples are in place and not Cut.

I attempted a TBS before I started this, but couldn't get a good a good seal from my gauge to the vacuum nipples. I wonder if that is a symptom as well? Maybe I should be pursuing the vacuum leak a little more agressively. But why would a vacuum leak cause the idle to increase? Just that much more air entering the system?

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Brandon,

Update your Profile with the Year / Type of FJR you have along with the mileage... this makes a Big Difference in Diagnosis.

 

[wmadoty]

Brandon,

The leak could be letting extra air in that the computer is not compensating for. More air (to a point) means faster idle leaner fuel mixture. Really big leaks will result in a misfire or a failure to idle. In extreme cases, if uncorrected for extended durations, you will see plug damage, burnt pistons and valves. I have even seen the head burn between two cylinders that was caused by a vacuum leak.

 

[fjr mississippi]

Too big of a coincidence not to be a vacuum leak. Put the vacuum system back to stock and see what happens. If you only tapped in at #4 this should be an easy test.

 

[08FJR4ME]

So I take it that everything was running fine before doing any of the work?

If so I would trace all of your steps. If you couldn't do a TBS before adding the CC-100 then you must have an issue before installing anything. The CC-100 just exasperated the issue.

Dave

 

[Brandon]

So I take it that everything was running fine before doing any of the work?

If so I would trace all of your steps. If you couldn't do a TBS before adding the CC-100 then you must have an issue before installing anything. The CC-100 just exasperated the issue.

Dave

I'll go after it again tomorrow, trying my best to return everything to stock. I just don't see where I am getting a leak. Maybe a new day will let me see something new.

 

[RadioHowie]

There is is slimmest possibility that the AVCC itself is leaking...not unheard of.