Shell Rotella T ?

[james1300]

05-40 Syn. OR 10-40 mineral Shell Rotella T

Which should I run in my '03 FJR?

 

[Bearly Flying]

Which one makes YOU happy????????

A search on Jestal's topics will give you a definitive answer...... :yahoo:

 

[daddysbike]

O.K, I'll bite.

I've used the Rotella 5-40 synthetic over 125,000 miles the last few years on Goldwings, CBRs, VFR etc with no problems as expected.

I decided to save a few more $$ and went with the regular (though for diesel engines so good 'cause not "energy conserving"ie. bad for wet clutch) Rotella 15-40 on the FJR. I'm happy at $8/gallon. That and my 2 for $6 at amazon.com Pure one filters work fine!

Steve

 

[TheAxeman]

(though for diesel engines so good 'cause not "energy conserving"ie. bad for wet clutch) Steve

?? :dntknw:

 

[Geezer]

(though for diesel engines so good 'cause not "energy conserving"ie. bad for wet clutch) Steve

?? :dntknw:

He's saying that even though Rotella T is sold as an oil for diesel engines it is good for motorcycles. It does not contain anti-friction energy conserving additives which would cause a wet clutch to slip.

 

[Vstar2FJR]

05-40 Syn. OR 10-40 mineral Shell Rotella TWhich should I run in my '03 FJR?

Any time I can get the benefits of a synthetic oil for the same price as a normal motocycle oil, I'll do it. I've used the synthetic Rotella for years on bikes. I even take it to the dealer and tell him to put it in even though I don't have to pay for oil with my prepaid service plan.

John

 

[james1300]

Thanks for the input guy's! Well the real input, anyway.

I was concerned that the 05-base would be too lite.

 

[Wicked Webby]

Thanks for the input guy's! Well the real input, anyway.I was concerned that the 05-base would be too lite.

James,

Remember the first number of a oils weight is only applicable at cold start. At operating temperature that oils weight is the second number. A lot prefer a lighter front number to get oil to all those "other" little places quick during the initial start up. I wouldn't sweat a 5w40 synthetic...Gives you the best of both worlds(if you wanna pay for it....I will switch to this around the 4-5000 mile mark).

WW

 

[clutchless1]

James1300, I did some reading about the various Dino and Synthetic oils that are available for the differentl types of motorcycles. I was impressed by this article I happened to find, I never knew there were so many different types oil for today's motorcycle engines. You really need to read this for yourself, you will be elling others what to use in their bikes and why. I've given you the web address below, so have fun reading it for yourself.

My finding was the Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 oil is one of the most cost effective better oils on the market for motorcycles today. I'm sure many will argue that point, but myself as well as quite a few others have used this oil without any problems at all. I do switch from Rotella to Red Line 15W-50 and Mobil 1 15W-50 motorcycle oil every once in a while, but when I can't find the oil I'm looking for I can usually find the Rotella Synthetic, and I always use synthetic oil, I also change it often to the tune of 1500 to 2000 miles.

Shell Rotella is a commercial oil designed for use in the Diesel engine, and as we all know these engines are harder on oils than the traditional automotive gas engines are, that is a good thing because they are designed to take a beating, we need to remember this. Now, motorcycle engines that use the same oil to lube the transmission and engine actually wear out a lot faster than a car engine using the same oil. Again, why you may ask? Because our motorcycle transmission shears the oil as it passes through the gear cluster, it doesn't matter how you ride either because the gears are continously wearing out the viscosity of the oil (regular oil that is, Synthetic oils are more resistant to shearing) Car engine oil is seperate from the gearbox, that's why the oil will last longer in a auto.

Synthetic oils don't contain much of a VII package (you'll have to read the entire article to see what this is) so shear is not as big an issue with them (which oil do you want to use in your bike engine and trans now? Synthetic or Traditional oil?)

Another thing to point out about motorcycle engines is this, most motorcycle engine oils also lubricate the transmission, it is the clutch and transmission play a big role in which oil we use should use in the motorcycle engine. The Clutch as we know is a wet clutch, there are so many different oils on the market today we need to watch carefully what we put into the crankcase. We do not want to use any oil that has a label of "ENERGY CONSERVING" in the motorcycle engine with a wet clutch. Why you ask? These oils contain what is called molybdenum, and there are fears that this will cause clutch slipping. Also the dreaded "ENERGY CONSERVING" oils contain a friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time.

Look, I could go on and on but I won't. If you would really like to read this info for yourself to find out what type of oil ranks the best and is the biggest bang for your buck? This is a really great article written by people who have done all kinds of research and spent lots of hours writing it up for us to gain knowledge, and it's all for free.

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html Use this to find the article "All About Motor Oil". I just did a web search on Dogpile and found this article, it was the second one down from the top. When trying to find this type the address exactly as it is shown and it will get you there.

Good Luck, Ride Safe. Enjoy the article

clutchless1 :clapping:

 

[boogahboogah]

Rotella Syn 5-40, plus 2-3-4 ounces of GM EOS, for extra ZDP...

 

[james1300]

Thanks for the input guy's! Well the real input, anyway.I was concerned that the 05-base would be too lite.

James,

Remember the first number of a oils weight is only applicable at cold start. At operating temperature that oils weight is the second number. A lot prefer a lighter front number to get oil to all those "other" little places quick during the initial start up. I wouldn't sweat a 5w40 synthetic...Gives you the best of both worlds(if you wanna pay for it....I will switch to this around the 4-5000 mile mark).

WW

Thanks for clearing that up!

 

[Wicked Webby]

Thanks for the input guy's! Well the real input, anyway.I was concerned that the 05-base would be too lite.

James,

Remember the first number of a oils weight is only applicable at cold start. At operating temperature that oils weight is the second number. A lot prefer a lighter front number to get oil to all those "other" little places quick during the initial start up. I wouldn't sweat a 5w40 synthetic...Gives you the best of both worlds(if you wanna pay for it....I will switch to this around the 4-5000 mile mark).

WW

Thanks for clearing that up!

No problem.

Ride Safe..WW

 

[raclow]

Please don't let Jestal weigh in here. He has written so much about this topic that I would venture a guess that he has no finger tips left.

Please do a search for this and you will learn lots without asking a single question.

Take care.

Jestal, stay out of this. You've done enough.

 

[Warchild]

I always use synthetic oil, I also change it often to the tune of 1500 to 2000 miles.

:blink:

This is rather wasteful and unnecessary to have this abbreviated change interval.

However, it's your bike, your money to spend as you see fit. So if this overly frequent oil change interval makes you happy, and you have the cashflow to toss away perfectly good oil after a mere 2000 miles, then.... have fun!

See, this is why we have the NEPRT forum... which is where we are off to now.... B)

 

[clutchless1]

I always use synthetic oil, I also change it often to the tune of 1500 to 2000 miles.

:blink:

This is rather wasteful and unnecessary to have this abbreviated change interval.

However, it's your bike, your money to spend as you see fit. So if this overly frequent oil change interval makes you happy, and you have the cashflow to toss away perfectly good oil after a mere 2000 miles, then.... have fun!

See, this is why we have the NEPRT forum... which is where we are off to now.... B)

Oil basics, until recently oil companies and automobile manufacturers said to change your oil every 3000 miles, even synthetics were supposed to be changed at that rate (I didn't say this, they did). After reading All About Motor Oil, and where it's written that motorcycle transmissions shear the oil (oil going through the gears does this) this causes the oil viscosity to break down twice as fast as the oil inside of a car engine. (It's all in this article) So for me spending what I spend on oil and filters, it's a cheap date.

If you wanna see waste. NASCAR changes oil every few hundred miles, and all other forms of race teams do the exact same thing. One way or another if you buy a sponser's product that has an add on a race team, you too are paying for the same waste in one way or another everytime you buy that product. I just getting some real benifit from my waste.

clutchless1

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

O.K, I'll bite.I've used the Rotella 5-40 synthetic over 125,000 miles the last few years on Goldwings, CBRs, VFR etc with no problems as expected.

I decided to save a few more $$ and went with the regular (though for diesel engines so good 'cause not "energy conserving"ie. bad for wet clutch) Rotella 15-40 on the FJR. I'm happy at $8/gallon. That and my 2 for $6 at amazon.com Pure one filters work fine!

Steve

+1 Rotella 15-40 non-synthetic

 

[Bustanut joker]

?????????????? Guys,

why

?????????????

 

[james1300]

Thanks EVERYONE for your insite and input.

Im gonna go 05-40 syn Shell Rotella T