jdog109socal
The Video Dude
Thats just them mean *** gear getting ready for lift off... :yahoo:
Jdog
Jdog
shift snick or shift clunk
- Thread starter cctxfjr
- Start date
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RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
If what you say is 100% true, you've got a problem.
My Feej is my first non-Kawi bike I've EVER owned. That goes back to my first H2. Way long ago. And every Kawi I've ever owned, up to and including my '02 ZRX1200R, had a rock crusher for a tranny compared to the Feej. Mine's an '04 with 43K miles, so it IS broken in.
The FJR may not be a quantum leap better, but it certainly is no worse than any Kawi I ever owned.
Ain't perception amazing?
radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Well, it's been a while, so I guess i can post this again.
Technique, grasshopper, technique.
Frank gives absolutely silent, fast, automatic like shifts (other than the 1st at rest clunk, that ain't gonna change, you're stopping a big gearset), and has for a long long time, ever since he taught me how he likes to be handled, and this with the shorter R1 lever to boot.
Rpm's help, some, first of all. But done right, smooth and quiet can be done at any speed, unless one gets lazy. As you get ready to shift, preload the shift lever ever so lightly-take the slack out of it. The stock lever at the shift shaft is fairly long-this to ease the work needed to make the gear change. What happens is you pull the clutch in, move the lever, let out the clutch. By the time you've begun to move the shift lever, the gearset has already begun to slow down with engine rpms-hence the clunk as the dogs have to connect two gearsets that are at wildly different speeds. Anyone who has had to double clutch a truck tranny would be familiar with this. Preloading the lever gets things ready to happen fast-and this is key. When you shift, move fast-slow and lazy will give you a clunk. The R1 lever, with it's shorter but harder throw, speeds up the action-giving the two gearsets less time to differ in speed. The longer throw original lever demands an even faster foot, as no matter what, it's gonna take fraction of a second longer to complete the action. Preload the lever, then as soon as you begin to depress the clutch lever, begin the shift. The tranny will pop right out as the clutch is depressed, unloading the input shaft. Don't pull the clutch in all the way-no need. As soon as the next gear has selected, release the clutch. About half of the clutch lever travel is all thats needed. One can go all the way to the bar, but you'll find it isn't needed, and simply wastes time you could use to be back on the gas, done right the passenger will swear you've got an automatic. Once you've figgered out the mechanics, work on smoothness. You will soon find the FJR tranny is actually a thing of beauty, it can do it so nicely and so quietly it will amaze you. once again-
1) preload
2) begin de-clutching
3) complete shift
4) release clutch
Do this FAST, as close to one action as you can make it-and I guarantee with a little practice you'll have a whole different perspective on this transmission. For those that are interested, the R1 lever is a 5JJ-18112-00-00, fits the 2001, and is $20-$25.
For best results, mount it backwards, that is, inverted from the orientation you see here. This further reduces the tendency for the lever to want to push up on the shaft, rather than turn it. It aligns the shift rod, thus the load, more towards the bearing side of the shift shaft-smoothing the action further. It is an easy swap, with stock bolts etc fitting just fine, though I used a little longer stainless clamp bolt just to be sure.
Technique, grasshopper, technique.
Frank gives absolutely silent, fast, automatic like shifts (other than the 1st at rest clunk, that ain't gonna change, you're stopping a big gearset), and has for a long long time, ever since he taught me how he likes to be handled, and this with the shorter R1 lever to boot.
Rpm's help, some, first of all. But done right, smooth and quiet can be done at any speed, unless one gets lazy. As you get ready to shift, preload the shift lever ever so lightly-take the slack out of it. The stock lever at the shift shaft is fairly long-this to ease the work needed to make the gear change. What happens is you pull the clutch in, move the lever, let out the clutch. By the time you've begun to move the shift lever, the gearset has already begun to slow down with engine rpms-hence the clunk as the dogs have to connect two gearsets that are at wildly different speeds. Anyone who has had to double clutch a truck tranny would be familiar with this. Preloading the lever gets things ready to happen fast-and this is key. When you shift, move fast-slow and lazy will give you a clunk. The R1 lever, with it's shorter but harder throw, speeds up the action-giving the two gearsets less time to differ in speed. The longer throw original lever demands an even faster foot, as no matter what, it's gonna take fraction of a second longer to complete the action. Preload the lever, then as soon as you begin to depress the clutch lever, begin the shift. The tranny will pop right out as the clutch is depressed, unloading the input shaft. Don't pull the clutch in all the way-no need. As soon as the next gear has selected, release the clutch. About half of the clutch lever travel is all thats needed. One can go all the way to the bar, but you'll find it isn't needed, and simply wastes time you could use to be back on the gas, done right the passenger will swear you've got an automatic. Once you've figgered out the mechanics, work on smoothness. You will soon find the FJR tranny is actually a thing of beauty, it can do it so nicely and so quietly it will amaze you. once again-
1) preload
2) begin de-clutching
3) complete shift
4) release clutch
Do this FAST, as close to one action as you can make it-and I guarantee with a little practice you'll have a whole different perspective on this transmission. For those that are interested, the R1 lever is a 5JJ-18112-00-00, fits the 2001, and is $20-$25.
For best results, mount it backwards, that is, inverted from the orientation you see here. This further reduces the tendency for the lever to want to push up on the shaft, rather than turn it. It aligns the shift rod, thus the load, more towards the bearing side of the shift shaft-smoothing the action further. It is an easy swap, with stock bolts etc fitting just fine, though I used a little longer stainless clamp bolt just to be sure.
Last edited by a moderator:
Wolfhound
Wildman
+1 on the R1 lever, awesome shorter throw shifting. . . .
Cdogman
Bad Boy
SLK50
Well-known member
+1 on what Radman said.
Also, finish the break-in and get your oil changed, it will help,
Also, finish the break-in and get your oil changed, it will help,
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