Shifting Improvement

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jpcfjr

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
132
Reaction score
2
Location
Woodbridge, VA
I recently took the Lee Parks Total Control class in Columbia, MD. The instructor, Tracy Martin, let me ride his '05 FJR at lunch to see how the power commander changed the throttle response. I noticed that his FJR's shifting was much crisper and faster than mine. It was almost like putting a short throw shifter on a car versus stock. Upon further investigation, Tracy had drilled and tapped a hole in the middle of the upper linkage and moved the screw and nut to this new hole which serves to shorten up the throw of the shift lever. He mentioned that one can buy an R1 linkage instead of drilling out the stock link.

Here are the questions: What year R1 linkage is required? Has anyone ordered one and installed it successfully? I definitely want to do this without drilling because I would like to be able to switch it back and have it look stock if I ever sell the bike.

Thanks,

j

 
Many of us have installer the R1 shift link with much success. I don't know if anyone has done it on a Gen 2 bike.

 
Here is a link to the R1 discussion.
R1 Thread

John
Thanks. I guess there is some sort of disconnect between my seat and the keyboard because I tried to search for a related link with no success.

After reading through that, is there anyone that's changed the linkage on a Gen II bike? Didn't see that in the thread. Would I use the same part number?

 
Here is a link to the R1 discussion.
R1 Thread

John
Thanks. I guess there is some sort of disconnect between my seat and the keyboard because I tried to search for a related link with no success.

After reading through that, is there anyone that's changed the linkage on a Gen II bike? Didn't see that in the thread. Would I use the same part number?


Seems like it should work on the Gen2s. The stock FJR part no is the same 2004 through 2010. If the R1 lever is a direct replacement for the Gen1 part it should work the same for the same part on a Gen2. Just went and looked at my 2006 and didn't see any clearance issues.

 
Many of us have installer the R1 shift link with much success. I don't know if anyone has done it on a Gen 2 bike.
Looking at ronayers.com, comparing an '05 with an '07, at least the FJR shift arm part numbers are the same:

ARM, SHIFT
Mfg. Part Number: 5JW-18112-00-00
SKU: 806143

The R1 shift arm from ronayers is:

Mfg. Part Number: 5JJ-18112-00-00
SKU: 805578
Cost is $37 USD + shipping.
I may put this on my short mod list!

 
I did it on my '06-used the arm from an '01 R1. I put the arm on the same way as the original one came off. This results in slightly more angle to the shift rod due to more offset on the R1 arm but is a non issue..Some have put the R1 arm on " inside out " which I tried but did not like the fit.. Anyhew, noticably crisper shift action.

 
I did it on my '06-used the arm from an '01 R1. I put the arm on the same way as the original one came off. This results in slightly more angle to the shift rod due to more offset on the R1 arm but is a non issue..Some have put the R1 arm on " inside out " which I tried but did not like the fit.. Anyhew, noticably crisper shift action.
Bottom line, part ordered. Hopefully I will have it installed in a week.

Thanks everybody!

 
After seeing this thread, I took my linkage apart today. The shifts have been feeling rough, and I figured a clean up couldn't hurt. That panel was a mess when I got it off, and the shifter itself was bolted down pretty tight. I did not changet to the R1 linkage, but I cleaned everythign up, greased all the moving parts, and didn't torque the shift pivot bolt down quite so tight. It actually made a noticable difference in the way the shifts feel.

For the pay-off, 45 minutes was totally worth the time spent.

 
After seeing this thread, I took my linkage apart today. The shifts have been feeling rough, and I figured a clean up couldn't hurt. That panel was a mess when I got it off, and the shifter itself was bolted down pretty tight. I did not changet to the R1 linkage, but I cleaned everythign up, greased all the moving parts, and didn't torque the shift pivot bolt down quite so tight. It actually made a noticable difference in the way the shifts feel.
For the pay-off, 45 minutes was totally worth the time spent.
Awesome. I feel as though I've contributed to society and made the world a slightly better place!

 
I got the R1 shift arm installed on Friday and it is a great improvement. Installed it such that the boot is reversed and you see the end of the hex bolt coming through the shift arm. It looks cool and there is just enough clearance between the rubber boot that covers the hex bolt and linkage and the one of the screws that holds on the gear selection indicator unit (I think that's what it is anyway).

I'd post a pic but this forum does not make that very easy.

 
I'd post a pic but this forum does not make that very easy.
It's a *****, ain't it?

posting.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Damn...I need to do that.....

Along with installing my AVCC, putting on sliders, getting a new shield, putting on sliders, mounting a GPS, installing heated grips, buying some heated clothing, putting on sliders, and, oh yeah, putting on sliders. :p

 
A few of us seem to have very difficult 1-2 shifts. The dogs don't always engage smoothly. Outside of an indiscernible amount of viscous shear, the clutch fully releases. but it takes time. The plates just stick together for what seems like 1/2 a second or so.

Is the R1 linkage a shorter throw linkage? If so, it seems that any resistance to completing the shift would be magnified. On the plus side, it would be quicker shift, lessening the dog's dwell time between not engaged and fully engaged, increasing the likelihood that the dogs are well engaged ASAP.

 
A few of us seem to have very difficult 1-2 shifts. The dogs don't always engage smoothly. Outside of an indiscernible amount of viscous shear, the clutch fully releases. but it takes time. The plates just stick together for what seems like 1/2 a second or so.

Is the R1 linkage a shorter throw linkage? If so, it seems that any resistance to completing the shift would be magnified. On the plus side, it would be quicker shift, lessening the dog's dwell time between not engaged and fully engaged, increasing the likelihood that the dogs are well engaged ASAP.

i want to know the same thing....

 
The R1 linkage makes for a shorter throw. I just transfered from my 04 to 09. Seems like the Gen2 throw is shorter to start with. Adding the R1 linkage makes for a nice crisp action (feel).

 
The R1 linkage makes for a shorter throw. I just transfered from my 04 to 09. Seems like the Gen2 throw is shorter to start with. Adding the R1 linkage makes for a nice crisp action (feel).

I just got hold of the R1 link and whilst it has the offset / crank as the pictures, the distance between the centres ( length) seems pretty much exactly the same as the stock item on mine - so I can't see any difference or point in fitting the R1 item.

Did different model years perhaps have different lengths and have I got the wrong model year item ?

Nick

 
Damn...I need to do that.....

Along with installing my AVCC, putting on sliders, getting a new shield, putting on sliders, mounting a GPS, installing heated grips, buying some heated clothing, putting on sliders, and, oh yeah, putting on sliders.
tongue.gif
***... so do I...

I don't want to be one of the uncool kids ya know.

 
Top