Shifting problem with AE - need help!

[neotim]

I just took delivery of a '06 AE with 4,600 miles. I noticed an issue with shifting during today's ride. I can replicate this problem pretty easily

When I come to a stop light in third. I'll stop completely. I'll then downshift to 2nd just fine. When I try to downshift to 1st, nothing happens... with either the finger shifter or the toe shifter. If I blip the throttle, it'll pop back in gear (I'll hear a clank) and then allow me to downshift to first. It's been stuck in 3rd and 1st as well.

Any ideas?

 

[garyahouse]

I just took delivery of a '06 AE with 4,600 miles. I noticed an issue with shifting during today's ride. I can replicate this problem pretty easily

When I come to a stop light in third. I'll stop completely. I'll then downshift to 2nd just fine. When I try to downshift to 1st, nothing happens... with either the finger shifter or the toe shifter. If I blip the throttle, it'll pop back in gear (I'll hear a clank) and then allow me to downshift to first. It's been stuck in 3rd and 1st as well.

Any ideas?

Have no idea if this will help, but maybe rolling the bike forward a couple inches after your 3rd to 2nd downshift will help... then try the 2nd to 1st downshift. I'm assuming all this happens while you are completely stopped???

 

[Pale Rider 07]

I just took delivery of a '06 AE with 4,600 miles. I noticed an issue with shifting during today's ride. I can replicate this problem pretty easily

When I come to a stop light in third. I'll stop completely. I'll then downshift to 2nd just fine. When I try to downshift to 1st, nothing happens... with either the finger shifter or the toe shifter. If I blip the throttle, it'll pop back in gear (I'll hear a clank) and then allow me to downshift to first. It's been stuck in 3rd and 1st as well.

Any ideas?

I have an 07 AE. I sometimes have trouble shifting from 2nd to 1st while stopped. A small amount of throttle, just enough to start moving the bike, and I can get it to shift down. I rarely find myself in this situation though as I tend to downshift to first almost every time I come to a stop. With the AE being so easy to shift, I find myself using the clutch rather than the breaks to control my stops.

 

[neotim]

I have an 07 AE. I sometimes have trouble shifting from 2nd to 1st while stopped. A small amount of throttle, just enough to start moving the bike, and I can get it to shift down. I rarely find myself in this situation though as I tend to downshift to first almost every time I come to a stop. With the AE being so easy to shift, I find myself using the clutch rather than the breaks to control my stops.

Thanks Dave, I can easily fix it the same way you do. I just wanted to find out if this problem may be the beginning of a larger problem with the YCCS system.

 

[RichardS]

I recall having this problem with ANY bike !! Don't stop in 3rd gear. That's why Yamma put the shift indicator blinker there.

 

[DagoFeejer]

What you are describing is totally normal. Just roll the throttle on enough to engage the clutch and downshift into the lower gears. Sometimes you have to do this and sometimes you don't. I'm sure there is a transmission guru here that'll say something about aligning the dogs, or forks, or something to that affect. Either way, it is normal. Enjoy the ride.

Dago

 

[kebo]

get used to down shifting as you come to a stop and be in first before it comes to a stop, I use the gears as a brake more often then the brakes itself, I am loving my AE especially since I have arthritus, the guys I ride with love the fact that I am clutchless, its the best thing I discovered on a bike.

Welcome to the Forum!

Kebo

 

[Brodie]

neotim

There is nothing wrong with your bike.

I put over 88K on my AE, use the gears to slow you to a stop. Downshift when appropriate so you end up in first at the traffic light. In the event that you didn't - no big deal, go ahead and downshift standing there. This is a standard motorcycle transmission with a computer actuated clutch. Sometimes the gear drive dogs are not aligned properly and need some motion to engage. A momentary slight increase in RPM (at the wrist) helps in that situation, then shift. No different than if you were driving a bike with a clutch handle.

The neat thing about engine braking is your brake pads last longer. I replaced mine at around 72K.

Brodie

 

[Dj Brady]

+1

not an issue. This is common of all motorcycles (or any vehicle with sequential gearboxes). What is happening is when the vehicle is stopped, it's possible for the teeth to hit 'edge to edge' instead of slipping into place, or meshing, with each other. Rolling the bike forward or backward a couple inches or engaging the clutch just a little bit to turn the input gear is how you get the teeth aligned to mesh correctly.

 

[fjr mississippi]

This is normal for all synchronous transmissions. Downshift prior to stopping and all will be well.

 

[302]

I just took delivery of a '06 AE with 4,600 miles. I noticed an issue with shifting during today's ride. I can replicate this problem pretty easily

When I come to a stop light in third. I'll stop completely. I'll then downshift to 2nd just fine. When I try to downshift to 1st, nothing happens... with either the finger shifter or the toe shifter. If I blip the throttle, it'll pop back in gear (I'll hear a clank) and then allow me to downshift to first. It's been stuck in 3rd and 1st as well.

Any ideas?

 

[302]

I just took delivery of a '06 AE with 4,600 miles. I noticed an issue with shifting during today's ride. I can replicate this problem pretty easily

When I come to a stop light in third. I'll stop completely. I'll then downshift to 2nd just fine. When I try to downshift to 1st, nothing happens... with either the finger shifter or the toe shifter. If I blip the throttle, it'll pop back in gear (I'll hear a clank) and then allow me to downshift to first. It's been stuck in 3rd and 1st as well.

Any ideas?

Try changing the oil I use Rotella synthetic 5-40 and it cured all of my shifting problems

 

[MartyA]

Same thing happens with manually operated transmissions - just like yours. With a clutch lever, you can let the clutch out just a little then downshift a gear, then let the clutch out a little again and downshift a gear. You accomplish the same thing by rev'ing the engine a little.

I question using a very expensive transmission to slow the bike down at a stop light over using the brakes. Just thinking out loud, but replacing the brake pads several times is much cheaper than replacing a worn transmission. I think one should definitely downshift as you approach the stop light, you should always be in the gear you need to properly accelerate if necessary, but use the brakes.

 

[noland]

What you are describing is totally normal. Just roll the throttle on enough to engage the clutch and downshift into the lower gears. Sometimes you have to do this and sometimes you don't. I'm sure there is a transmission guru here that'll say something about aligning the dogs, or forks, or something to that affect. Either way, it is normal. Enjoy the ride.

Dago

+1

 

[RichardS]

My AE clutch disengages around 1500 rpm, so there is NO reason not to downshift into the proper gear before a stop, before the wheels stop turning which assists in the downshift.

 

[RadioHowie]

I question using a very expensive transmission to slow the bike down at a stop light over using the brakes. Just thinking out loud, but replacing the brake pads several times is much cheaper than replacing a worn transmission. I think one should definitely downshift as you approach the stop light, you should always be in the gear you need to properly accelerate if necessary, but use the brakes.

Since the FJR has a constant mesh transmission, it's always "in use" so there's really no reason NOT to use engine braking to help slow the bike down.

 

[midnight rider]

I have an 08 AE and usually find it better to roll to a stop in 2nd gear. Find out it rolls smoother then the surging when I'm in 1st coming to a stop. I do sometimes have trouble selecting neutral then but because of no clutch level I leave it in first.

 

[defcon]

I question using a very expensive transmission to slow the bike down at a stop light over using the brakes. Just thinking out loud, but replacing the brake pads several times is much cheaper than replacing a worn transmission. I think one should definitely downshift as you approach the stop light, you should always be in the gear you need to properly accelerate if necessary, but use the brakes.

Since the FJR has a constant mesh transmission, it's always "in use" so there's really no reason NOT to use engine braking to help slow the bike down.

I realize that I'm joining this conversation a little late, but...

I agree that it's always a good idea to be in the proper gear while slowing in case you need to power out of a situation. Ducati recently had an ECU recall on their new Multistrada 1200 because it had a tendency to stall at idle. They considered this a safety issue and a simple re-map fixed the issue.

Back to the subject. Wouldn't it save some wear and tear on the CLUTCH, not necessarily the transmission, to avoid excessive engine braking? As I understand things, the AE tranny and clutch are conventional, albeit electronically activated.

On a side note: Have any of you had to replace a clutch? If so, at what mileage?

 

[Fred W]

Well, while Howie is technically correct that the gears are always engaged on a CM transmission, wear only occurs on the gear faces when there is a significant load, either positive or negative (acceleration or engine braking). That said, I've never heard of anyone ever wearing out their transmission gear faces, either by engine braking or by applying > 90 ft.lbs of engine torque through them.

Whether you wear your clutch has more to do with your clutch technique, how well you match the engine speed to the road speed before re engaging the clutch and how much slipping of the clutch that you do. Especially under heavy loads such as when making drag race starts and trying to keep rpms up and the front end down.

An AE should be automatically matching engine speeds for routine shifting, so it should be as good as the best manual shifting riders in that regard. How much you dawdle through the clutch slip rpm zone may effect clutch wear minimally on an AE, but that should be low load, low rpm clutch action.

The only clutches that I'm aware of ever being replaced on FJRs were burnt up by doing extended parking lot gymkhana, where lots of slipping was employed.