Shock/Swingarm Link Bearings

[icedog75]

Just thought I'd post a couple pics of what I found when I finally go the link off the bike:

First is a photo of one of the link-to-frame bearings notable for two reasons: 1 you can clearly see that some of the bearing cage material is missing...probably leading to the second item...you can see the side of the link itself has been rubbing on the frame mounts...not an ideal situation.

The second is a photo of the link-to-swingarm bearings. Full needle which look and feel OK to me and will be cleaned/lubed in place.

Third pic is the link-to-shock bearing...even more cage material missing. Will be replaced for sure.

Getting this sucker out was an exercise in patience. Removing the centerstand was a b***h and a half. Unlike some posters there was no way I was springing the header far enough to remove those forward bolts without loosening the flanges at the head. Although I will be doing a coolant change I didn't want to do it by removing the radiator...an hour with a hacksaw blade cutting off the bolt heads.

Now I'll be searching out an arbor press for bearing removal. I tried a bench vise and sockets...no joy. Didn't move even a fraction. I will be interested to see what it will take to get the bearings out.

Looks like I'll need a few more bits.

 

[ALFJR]

You might consider taking the link and bearing assemblies to a local machine shop to get those bearings out. I've done this a few times with automotive applications. It's worth the few bucks they charge for such service.

How did you get the centerstand bolts off? Did you end up cutting them? Also, how many miles on your FJR when you pulled the link?

Thanks for the detailed pics. Nice job!!

 

[icedog75]

You might consider taking the link and bearing assemblies to a local machine shop to get those bearings out. I've done this a few times with automotive applications. It's worth the few bucks they charge for such service.
How did you get the centerstand bolts off? Did you end up cutting them? Also, how many miles on your FJR when you pulled the link?

Thanks for the detailed pics. Nice job!!

Aft centerstand bolts are readily accessible and appear to be held with a type of aircraft locking nut...very high tech and very, very tight. Forward nuts are on the inboard side of the frame and difficult to access. I used a box wrench (and even then managed to round one off). Once I removed the nuts I used a hacksaw blade and sawed off the bolt heads (pipe just couldn't be moved enough to clear them). I will buy some replacement hardware today and as those who have gone before me suggested will install them bolt head in and use locktite on the nut.

My bike is an 03 with 15,600 miles.

 

[jestal]

Just from the pictures the bearings look fine to me. Are you sure that there is a cage in there? Looks just like mine did with full needles and no cages..... One the higher loaded bearings more needles are used to spread out the load and no room is left for a cage to align them...and none is needed. The cage is just used as a spacer and alignment feature where less needles will do the job. Less needles = less cost so the lower loaded application/location gets the caged needles.

 

[icedog75]

Just from the pictures the bearings look fine to me. Are you sure that there is a cage in there? Looks just like mine did with full needles and no cages..... One the higher loaded bearings more needles are used to spread out the load and no room is left for a cage to align them...and none is needed. The cage is just used as a spacer and alignment feature where less needles will do the job. Less needles = less cost so the lower loaded application/location gets the caged needles.

I'm not at all sure...one of the posts on this subject referred to the yellow-colored material as form of lubricant. If that's the case it looks like some is missing. I'm not sure if loading them up with grease and reassembling is OK. I am concerned that the link is be pullled/pushed out of alignment enough to be rubbing on the frame ears.

 

[Constant Mesh]

What's the technique for removing the oil seals and exposing the bearings? Are the oil seals reusable?

When you lube the bearings do you just remove the seals, clean off the old grease on the bearings the best you can and then work new grease into the rollers, etc.?

 

[icedog75]

What's the technique for removing the oil seals and exposing the bearings? Are the oil seals reusable?
When you lube the bearings do you just remove the seals, clean off the old grease on the bearings the best you can and then work new grease into the rollers, etc.?

Seals can be popped off with a thin-bladed screwdriver. They are not reuseable. It's a good idea to have the seals on hand before you start this job.

As for greasing the bearings...generally after cleaning you load them with new grease, synthetic is preferred, and reasseble. This is the first time I'm doing this so I'm a little unsure about my bearing condition. I'm hoping for a little input from someone whose done this already.

 

[jestal]

Why is synthetic grease "preferred"...???

The main criteria for grease selection for that joint would be water proof grease. Synthetic greases allow operation at high temperatures...not something that the suspension pivots require at all. Be carefull because the BEST of the high temp synthetic greases are clay based instead of soap based and clay based greases are not very tolerant of moisture at all. I would stay away from synthetic greases in that bearing period and use something like BelRay "salt water proof" grease that is available in any dirt bike shop.

They material in the bearings in your picture looks like the original grease. The needles will fall out if you clean the grease out so be carefull. I would just pack additional grease into them and re-assemble. They look perfectly fine. The slight contact with the side of the pivot is not unusual I would say. There is no evidence of the bearing allowing any lateral movement. You are missing the main component to examine...that being the shafts for the bearings. Clean them up and look at them. If they are rusty or corroded or worn funny then you would want to replace the inner shafts, not the bearings.

By picking at the material between the bearings with a toothpick or other sharp object you should be able to retrieve some of it and tell if it is grease or a plastic bearing race.....

The side seals are pretty easy to remove with a small, dull screwdriver tip. Just exert gently, steady pressure to pry them out. They will not come out quickly but under steady pressure they will slowly ease out of the bore. They are perfectly reuseable. I took all mine out, examined them and they were fine. I would have no qualms at all about reusing those seals unless you wreck or cut one removing it.

 

[icedog75]

Why is synthetic grease "preferred"...???
The main criteria for grease selection for that joint would be water proof grease. Synthetic greases allow operation at high temperatures...not something that the suspension pivots require at all. Be carefull because the BEST of the high temp synthetic greases are clay based instead of soap based and clay based greases are not very tolerant of moisture at all. I would stay away from synthetic greases in that bearing period and use something like BelRay "salt water proof" grease that is available in any dirt bike shop.

They material in the bearings in your picture looks like the original grease. The needles will fall out if you clean the grease out so be carefull. I would just pack additional grease into them and re-assemble. They look perfectly fine. The slight contact with the side of the pivot is not unusual I would say. There is no evidence of the bearing allowing any lateral movement. You are missing the main component to examine...that being the shafts for the bearings. Clean them up and look at them. If they are rusty or corroded or worn funny then you would want to replace the inner shafts, not the bearings.

By picking at the material between the bearings with a toothpick or other sharp object you should be able to retrieve some of it and tell if it is grease or a plastic bearing race.....

The side seals are pretty easy to remove with a small, dull screwdriver tip. Just exert gently, steady pressure to pry them out. They will not come out quickly but under steady pressure they will slowly ease out of the bore. They are perfectly reuseable. I took all mine out, examined them and they were fine. I would have no qualms at all about reusing those seals unless you wreck or cut one removing it.

Tks Jestal. I appreciate insight on the bearings. The collars all look very good. No evidence of scuffing and the "feel" is good. The seals look kind of ratty and I've already ordered replacments. They're cheap enough. When I get the seals I'll start reassembling.

 

[xcsp]

In viewing the pics above, were these areas cleaned prior to taking the pics or is this as they were when the seals were removed-was there still grease on the bearings?

I only have 14k on my '03 and have debated on waiting until winter for servicing the rear suspension.

 

[yamaha1300rider]

In viewing the pics above, were these areas cleaned prior to taking the pics or is this as they were when the seals were removed-was there still grease on the bearings?
I only have 14k on my '03 and have debated on waiting until winter for servicing the rear suspension.

xcsp

Have you read my saga?

You have been warned

 

[icedog75]

In viewing the pics above, were these areas cleaned prior to taking the pics or is this as they were when the seals were removed-was there still grease on the bearings?
I only have 14k on my '03 and have debated on waiting until winter for servicing the rear suspension.

Photos taken "after" cleaning. The amber material you see is (as I understand it) a sort of solid lube. Not soluble in the solvent I used. Unlike the pin in "you have been warned" mine all look OK. No lack of lube and no corrosion. I have just about 16K miles. Not knowing your bike's history...you're gettin closer to Winter all the time. If it were me I don't think I would have a problem waiting but it's your call.